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Replacing the cabin filter questions

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spokey

Active Member
Aug 8, 2020
1,437
861
Flagtown
I'm close to 2 years and figuring it's time to replace the cabin filters. I looked at a video at Abstract Ocean. Their video is for a new M3 but they say the Y is the same.

But the tesla instructions look more like the old M3 in the video although the instructions are a bit different and are not quite the same as the AO instructions

So a couple questions

1 - The AO indicates you need to drop the footwell cover. Tesla seems to indicate that is not needed for the MY.
2 - It's not clear whether the MY filter cover is held in place with a screw at the bottom or the more difficult screw at the top.
3 - The AO filters are a little more expensive the the OEM ones. Anyone think they are better? I don't really need the trim removal tool and probably not the torx tool


My MY is an August 2020 build 36xxx VIN if there was a MY change like the M3.
 
I'm close to 2 years and figuring it's time to replace the cabin filters. I looked at a video at Abstract Ocean. Their video is for a new M3 but they say the Y is the same.

But the tesla instructions look more like the old M3 in the video although the instructions are a bit different and are not quite the same as the AO instructions

So a couple questions

1 - The AO indicates you need to drop the footwell cover. Tesla seems to indicate that is not needed for the MY.
2 - It's not clear whether the MY filter cover is held in place with a screw at the bottom or the more difficult screw at the top.
3 - The AO filters are a little more expensive the the OEM ones. Anyone think they are better? I don't really need the trim removal tool and probably not the torx tool


My MY is an August 2020 build 36xxx VIN if there was a MY change like the M3.
See my posts (#22 - 24)

MY 2020 - Cabin air filter replacement
 
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1 - The AO indicates you need to drop the footwell cover. Tesla seems to indicate that is not needed for the MY.
2 - It's not clear whether the MY filter cover is held in place with a screw at the bottom or the more difficult screw at the top.
3 - The AO filters are a little more expensive the the OEM ones. Anyone think they are better? I don't really need the trim removal tool and probably not the torx tool
1 - The trim piece underneath the glove box comes out after you remove (4) clips. You don't need to disconnect the speaker wire or the wire for the footwell light.

2 - In the Model Y the cover for evaporator coil / cabin air filter box is held in place at the bottom of the cover by (1) hex bolt (size 6mm or 7mm will fit). Use a ratchet wrench or else a screw driver that accepts the smaller size sockets. (the hex bolt has no slot and does not require a Torx socket.)

3 - I purchased replacement cabin air filters from Basenor (less expensive than the OE Tesla filters that are sometime not in stock.) I would stay away from any cabin air filter that is described as a HEPA filter as there is some information that the additional effort required to pull air through a HEPA filter can cause the blower motor in the HVAC to fail. Tesla may not replace the motor under the warranty if you replace the factory cabin air filters HEPA type cabin air filter. Note: This does not refer to or apply to the large HEPA filter that is fitted to the air intake in the Tesla Model Y with the bioweapon defense mode cabin air filtration system.
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so you do have to remove the panel under the glovebox?

I have a driver handle so expect the hex screw should be no problem whether hex or torx

So you can see the coils and just sort of sprayed in there?
I had to remove the panel under the glove box and tuck it out of the way (wires still attached)

The carpeted trim piece on the side of the center console takes a bit of effort to remove (use a plastic trim removal tool to get started so you don't damage the console.)

You can't see the evaporator coil even after removing the cabin air filters. There is just not enough room or light to get in there to see inside the filter box. I suggest using either the Klima-Cleaner or Kool-It with the included hose attachment. (Just follow the directions on the can.) The Klima-Cleaner can holds more cleaner that the Kool-It can, you might want to use 2 cans of Kool-It versus just 1 can of Klima-Cleaner. Have a rag handy to stuff into the opening to keep the foaming cleaner from spilling out of the filter box access opening.
 
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I recently did mine (2021 MY) because of the sour/sweat sock smell problem. It's not too difficult. I used the video below for guidance.

I also recommend using Klima-Cleaner just because it's larger than Kool-It. As mentioned above, you really can't see what your doing, and you want to flood the whole space with foam and let it sit for 15 mins.

 
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tons of youtube videos out there!! I got the HEPA one with no issues but will switch back to the OG pleat one since it does decrease air flow
its a hassle to do but once you know how to do it it's easy
also make sure to turn on outside air before you get home to dry out the coils
after I did this to mine the musty smell is gone completely and hasn't come back

 
I had to remove the panel under the glove box and tuck it out of the way (wires still attached)

The carpeted trim piece on the side of the center console takes a bit of effort to remove (use a plastic trim removal tool to get started so you don't damage the console.)

You can't see the evaporator coil even after removing the cabin air filters. There is just not enough room or light to get in there to see inside the filter box. I suggest using either the Klima-Cleaner or Kool-It with the included hose attachment. (Just follow the directions on the can.) The Klima-Cleaner can holds more cleaner that the Kool-It can, you might want to use 2 cans of Kool-It versus just 1 can of Klima-Cleaner. Have a rag handy to stuff into the opening to keep the foaming cleaner from spilling out of the filter box access opening.
Great advice. Amusingly, my very early (June 2020 build date) Y uses a plain ol' Phillips screw to hold it in. Looks just like the 4 other screws there, but it was still pretty easy to figure out the right one to remove.

Also I was able to see most of the evaporator with a little inspection mirror. Somewhat surprisingly, it was completely clean. I didn't even bother spraying it with the can of cleaner I bought. There had been a little bit of smell in the car, and now there isn't, so I assume it was the filters themselves that were getting smelly.
 
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1 - The AO indicates you need to drop the footwell cover. Tesla seems to indicate that is not needed for the MY.
2 - It's not clear whether the MY filter cover is held in place with a screw at the bottom or the more difficult screw at the top.
3 - The AO filters are a little more expensive the the OEM ones. Anyone think they are better? I don't really need the trim removal tool and probably not the torx tool
1. I just changed recently on my Mar 2021 built MY. I tried to do it w/o removing the footwell cover but could not pull out the filter. The top part of filter would hit the footwell cover. I had to remove the footwell cover. Perhaps later build MY are different.
2. Mine has the screw on the bottom. I believe earlier build have it on top.
3. You don't "need" the trim removal but it makes thing easier. The screw holding the cover is a torx screw. I bought the filter from Amazon with carbon layer. This is my 2nd time at 28K miles. It seems to keep the smell away better.
 
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Great advice. Amusingly, my very early (June 2020 build date) Y uses a plain ol' Phillips screw to hold it in. Looks just like the 4 other screws there, but it was still pretty easy to figure out the right one to remove.

Also I was able to see most of the evaporator with a little inspection mirror. Somewhat surprisingly, it was completely clean. I didn't even bother spraying it with the can of cleaner I bought. There had been a little bit of smell in the car, and now there isn't, so I assume it was the filters themselves that were getting smelly.
Hmmm

Wonder what kind of screw I have with an August build. Not that it matters but why keep changing the screw? Personally I'd prefer a torx or allen as long as it was a standard size. Too easy to slip and bugger up a phillips
 
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Hmmm

Wonder what kind of screw I have with an August build. Not that it matters but why keep changing the screw? Personally I'd prefer a torx or allen as long as it was a standard size. Too easy to slip and bugger up a phillips
Fifty bucks says it was always supposed to be different, but on the day my car was made they ran out of Torx screws so just put in what they had.
 
I did my March 21 over the weekend as well. The side trim piece is WAY harder to remove than on our Model 3. BUT, the torx screw located on the bottom of the removable panel makes the job so much easier.

If you buy the filter from abstract ocean (and honestly from many other sellers) the filter kit comes with a trim removal device and the torx wrench and driver. I've changed the filter on the model 3 twice and have a collection of these trim removal devices now from all the kits.
 
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