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Request for advice on buying a used Roadster in Japan

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I would say the most recent drop is within normal adjustment range. The CAC is recalculated every so often, usually after a long discharge. In fact if you look at the long-term trend in the graph, the recent adjustment is not far off. If you started driving it on a regular basis it would probably climb back up a little bit.

Thanks, that is reassuring to know.

Also, I forgot to note that the drop around the end of March in 2012 coincides with information I have about a battery change at that time. I thought a battery change would result in a sudden CAC spike upwards but I guess that is not the case. The gradual climb after that drop to zero is a result of the system 'learning' the capacity of the new battery...correct?
 
Try the log tool at TeslaFlux and see if you can find the drive logs around the times it dropped to zero.

And please go buy the car already. I'm about to buy it, ship it back to the US, and sell it for a $30k profit.

Thanks - I'm planning on that but I'm primarily a Mac user. I do have Windows installed via Bootcamp and hadn't used it for months. Tried to restart into Windows for that purpose and found that a recent Mac OS update has temporarily tanked by Windows install. It's fixable though...I just haven't found the time to sit down and work it out. I'll post pics when I get there. :)

No, no, don't grab it out from underneath me. I'm gonna make an offer the next time I'm there. ;-)
 
Thanks - I'm planning on that but I'm primarily a Mac user. I do have Windows installed via Bootcamp and hadn't used it for months. Tried to restart into Windows for that purpose and found that a recent Mac OS update has temporarily tanked by Windows install. It's fixable though...I just haven't found the time to sit down and work it out. I'll post pics when I get there. :)
If you can't get Windows going, the graphical parser also works under Wine on my Linux box. I believe there's a version for the MAC as well. That might be less painful :).
 
If you can't get Windows going, the graphical parser also works under Wine on my Linux box. I believe there's a version for the MAC as well. That might be less painful :).

Thanks - I wasn't aware of a Mac version. I'll search that out briefly as the Windows troubleshooting looks like it's going to be a bit time consuming....time that I don't unfortunately have. :)
 
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GUI is great for seeing the data plotted in graphs and for general numbers.
I think that was the idea - to see if there is a correlation between the battery SOC drops, CAC changes, and any particular driving event.

If there's any further development planned for the GUI, it would be really nice to be able to overlay error events on the graphs (or have a separate graph if the data can't be mixed), and to have the X-axis labeled in real time instead of an offset from the start. Those changes would make it a much more capable troubleshooting tool than it already is. The key is being able to see correlations between actions and events, and to be able to see the shape of the information being presented. It's why we use multi-trace oscilloscopes in addition to volt meters.
 
Actually, I've been using the terminal via my Mac with vmsparser. No allergy to command line but I can't seem to get my head around all the data the way I want to. I was/am working toward trying to figure out exactly what's been pointed out here....that is, did the car simply run out of charge because it wasn't plugged in as opposed to something happening while it was being driven. It seems the latter is not the case. What has me a bit troubled, however, is that leading up to the car hitting 0% charge there are a slew of records indicating the car was charged at 3% to 3% then later 2% to 2% then 1% to 1%. It was slowing running down which is understandable because....each one of the charge records shows charging for 20 to 30 seconds then an interruption and then a very short charge record again (20 to 30 seconds). There are a ton of these. I'm hoping it's something as simple as a bad connection on the charge cable plugin...is that possible? Rather than some kind of problem with the charging electronics in the vehicle...is that possible?

I managed to get Windows back up and running so I'll give the graphic tool a try later today and see if that makes life any easier for me. Exporting text files from command line and then trying to combine them in Excel isn't so much an issue of difficulty as it is time consuming. :)
 
There are a ton of these. I'm hoping it's something as simple as a bad connection on the charge cable plugin...is that possible? Rather than some kind of problem with the charging electronics in the vehicle...is that possible?
Assuming there aren't any other errors around the time of the charging, that looks like either a bad power connection, or an issue with the EVSE. They may have assumed that having the car plugged in was all that was needed, not knowing that there was an issue with it. Unless you look at the display, it's not apparent that there is a problem.

What charging voltage and current was it reporting during those short charging events?
 
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Assuming there aren't any other errors around the time of the charging, that looks like either a bad power connection, or an issue with the EVSE. They may have assumed that having the car plugged in was all that was needed, not knowing that there was an issue with it. Unless you look at the display, it's not apparent that there is a problem.

What charging voltage and current was it reporting during those short charging events?

@gregd --> Thanks, the voltage and current for those short events was:

Between 102 ~ 104 volts & somewhere between 1 & 10 amps of 15 amps (most are around 3 or 4 amps but there are a few random 9s and 10s).

The "energy" column is all 0 Kwh which I guess makes sense as that is the amount of uptake or expenditure for charge or drive, correct?

Interesting aside, I just noticed it's been plugged into a 200v 70 amp line accepting 70 amps. One such event shows a 43.9 Kwh charge (19% to 83%) in a mere 3 hours and 38 minutes. That's pumping it in!
 

@TEG --> If you are searching for photos, blog entries, etc. about Tesla Roadsters in Japan, the following in a Google search will provide a wealth of returns.

テスラ ロードスター

In the Japanese alphabet, used for foreign words, that is "Tesla Roadster" :) Maybe that is what you have already been doing?
 
Sorry to bump this but....just wanted to check and make sure those values I listed above:

Between 102 ~ 104 volts & somewhere between 1 & 10 amps of 15 amps (most are around 3 or 4 amps but there are a few random 9s and 10s).

The "energy" column is all 0 Kwh which I guess makes sense as that is the amount of uptake or expenditure for charge or drive, correct?​

are not problematic?
 
Sorry, got to doing some research, and went off into unknown territory. Was hoping others would chime in.

My initial impression was, wow, that's a really low voltage. But then I found that 100v is standard in Japan. The fact that the car charges fine at 40 amps suggests the car is fine, but then why wouldn't it draw power at the lower voltage. I'm presuming that the car can auto-voltage down to your standard 100 volts. I don't recall anyone mentioning a special version or such for Japan. More likely, the 100v power was problematic somehow. I have found that the logs on my car don't reflect changes in current applied during a charge session, so what you are seeing is one snapshot (beginning or end, I don't remember) during the brief charge session, and not the whole history. If there was a problem during the session with the wall power (e.g. voltage sag), I don't know that you'd see it. Seems silly not to log it, though, since that would be an important event to remember. I haven't had a chance to try charging my car with a long extension cord to see what would happen in real life. Didn't get farther than that.

Seeing as how it recorded only 1-10 amps out of a configured 15 is most likely due to voltage sag, and that the problem was not with the car. Assuming all seems fine now, I'd go with that. You might check the contacts on the end of the 100v charging cable to see if there's any evidence of burned contacts (they'd look scarred or blueish/blackened). If it was the charging cable, that's an easy thing to replace.

Perhaps one way to look at it, even if there is an item for repair, the price seems low enough to still be a reasonable deal. But, that's coming from one who spent about 2x what you're looking at (and was happy doing so). I almost didn't pursue getting my car, over concerns about large investment, and the all the unknowns. The seller offered me a 7-day/250 mile return policy, and my family talked me into going for it. Glad they did.
 
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By the way:
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/blog_attachments/jp_owners_manual_-_web_version_-_ja.pdf


Doesn't Japan have a mix of 50hz and 60hz power sources?
I wonder if that is a factor in some of the odd charging logs.


テスラ・ロードスター2.0 Sport(MR/1AT)【試乗記】 (5301) 3ページ目 - webCG
img_1ad243ef8f5ad226bb336deb92b5246a72872.jpg

充電は、一般の家庭用100V電源と、オプション200V高速充電が利用できる。いまのところ、街なかに設置された国産EV向けの急速充電機は使えない。
 
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By the way:
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/blog_attachments/jp_owners_manual_-_web_version_-_ja.pdf


Doesn't Japan have a mix of 50hz and 60hz power sources?
I wonder if that is a factor in some of the odd charging logs.


テスラ・ロードスター2.0 Sport(MR/1AT)【試乗記】 (5301) 3ページ目 - webCG
img_1ad243ef8f5ad226bb336deb92b5246a72872.jpg

充電は、一般の家庭用100V電源と、オプション200V高速充電が利用できる。いまのところ、街なかに設置された国産EV向けの急速充電機は使えない。

Thank you very much for the comments and information. And, yes, there is a mixture of 50hz and 60hz here. I had completely forgotten about that. I don't see anything in the Japanese PDF that references that fact though so I'm guessing it is something that is dealt with by the car's internal electronics...?

The photo you've attached here is exactly the same charge cable that apparently was provided with cars here in Japan. It can be used on a 100V or 200V receptacle. The web link doesn't mention anything either....but does point out that CHAdeMO stations can't be used.

I'm guessing it was plugged into a faulty (loose etc.) outlet. I'll check the plug the next time I'm there.

I wonder if the dealer would go for some kind of deal like you've mentioned here (7 day / 250 mile return)....maybe I'll give that a shot. Gotta get my wife onboard now...lucky you having your family talk you into it. :) Two electric vehicles and the one that has the best range only being able carry two people is a bit of a tough sell...but there are those CHAdeMO stations everywhere for the Leaf so... If you have any 'sales point' advice that will be welcome too. :)
 
... If you have any 'sales point' advice that will be welcome too. :)

Many people who didn't think of themselves of "sports car fans" or "driving enthusiasts" became converts after driving a Roadster.
There is a grassroots marketing term "getting butts in seats is the best way to sell." But then you run the risk of having them want to borrow the Roadster from you too much !

Some people also stress the "cool car" angle. Suggest that you might get up front valet parking at an exclusive restaurant for instance. It may not always be the case, but some of your friends might be into the idea of getting noticed that way. (On the other hand, be prepared to find people photographing your car more frequently than you might like.)
 
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I wonder if the dealer would go for some kind of deal like you've mentioned here (7 day / 250 mile return)....maybe I'll give that a shot. Gotta get my wife onboard now...lucky you having your family talk you into it. :) Two electric vehicles and the one that has the best range only being able carry two people is a bit of a tough sell...but there are those CHAdeMO stations everywhere for the Leaf so... If you have any 'sales point' advice that will be welcome too. :)
Not much more to add beyond what TEG posted, except to say that it really depends on your situation. The fact that it's a 2-seat car can be a problem if you need to go pick up two kids from school, which in my case was why we had to sell my beloved 1972 Datsun 240Z after our second child was born. Both kids are grown and on their own now, so it was time to sell the Acura Integra, and the Roadster was the perfect replacement. Fittingly, the original owner of the Roadster moved to the Model S, due to family.

The other argument the family used on me was something along the lines of "Dad, you deserve it." Even my wife approved, since it did not have a manual transmission, a continual source of friction about the other cars we've owned. (I hate automatics, she refused to drive a stick.)

I've since retired, and now look at the car as "my boat". Instead of spending time and money polishing the fittings and going sailing on the bay, my boat has 4 wheels and does 0-60 in under 4 seconds. Yeah, I deserve that.