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Requesting Blox Spacers Reviews/inputs

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You can get blox off ebay..where I got mine, think I paid like $110 and they got here fast from China, like 5 days not even after they confirmed the fitment, which didn't matter, I run after market wheels and hub rings, then the spacers.


Anyway, didn't think of anti-seize either...good idea.

Anyway 20x9 setup with 15mm in the rear only on riaction coilovers with about 1.5" drop.

IMG_0100.jpg
 
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'21 Model 3 Performance. I bought 15mm spacers for the front and 20mm for the rear. After install, I moved the 15mm to the rear and bought a 5mm for the front. That's what I recommend. It looks pretty good with a small suspension drop,
Out of curiosity, what made you decide to change your spacer set-up to 5mm on the front and 15mm on the rear? Did the 20mm push the wheels a little too far out for your taste?
 
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Out of curiosity, what made you decide to change your spacer set-up to 5mm on the front and 15mm on the rear? Did the 20mm push the wheels a little too far out for your taste?
Exactly.

I've got the 20" Uberturbine wheels. I think they stick out further to begin with, and holy cow did they stretch the tires on the wheels.
When I had 20mm's on the rear, it was fine since the tread was still basically under the fender, but it did poke out the wheel some and I didn't like that look.
The fronts with 15mm spacers poked way out. I really didn't like that.

When I tossed my coils on, I took a bunch of measurements and found the rear wheels were 17mm inboard of the fender and the fronts were 7mm inboard. I decided 2mm inboard was better than 3mm outboard.

Hope that helps!

Also, what I normally do when finding spacers is I'll toss washers on in place of a spacer. You don't drive on it, but set the car back down in your garage until you get it where you want it, then take some calipers and measure the washer thickness.
Since these cars come with stretched tires, it was easy for me to take a straight edge from the lower side of my wheel face to the upper and then measure the offset to the fender with my calipers.
 
I grabbed a couple pics for you. Like I said before, I've still got to get the 5mm spacers on the front. I just need to trim some material off them with the lathe to account for the Performance rotors being an oddball size.

Thanks. Looking good! Man, your fronts don’t even look like they need any spacers!

I saw a 2021 M3P up close earlier this week when I took my vehicle into the SC for a routine state inspection, and the front 20” uberturbines on that one definitely did not stick out as far as yours. I remember thinking to myself… man, this vehicle needs spacers!
I wonder why the front tires on that stock M3P I saw were tucked into the wheel well so much more than your fronts? To clarify, the fronts in your pic from above do not have any spacers, correct?
 
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Just a quick couple of questions... does prolonged use of the 15mm/20mm cause any unusual wear of bearings or any other wheel component? Also, which anti-seize is best? I see loctite and numerous others, each claiming to be the best. I have a set of the bloxsports that I'm getting ready to install.
You want to buy the Permatex Anti-Seize copper or silver kind.
 
So I just ran this drill on my 2021 M3P this weekend. I bought the Blox (new Bonos) version with the active cooling gimmick in 15/25mm. This is the magic number for perfect offset on the M3P. I heard conflicting results on here and the folks on IG that I’ve reached out to. Some claim there is just enough room in the wheel pockets up front for the 15mm spacers and others said not a chance. They all fit like a glove except the driver front. Pockets in the Uberturbines were literally 1/4” shallow on that side. I attempted to bring the back drivers side up front and that one was even worse. Ended up grinding off three threads on the driver lugs to make it work. And yes, use anti-seize on the inner hub ring of the spacer if you ever want the ability to remove these and a dab of blue loctite on the spacer nuts. I’ll wait another week and remove the wheels to re-torque everything. Drives smooth as glass and overall happy with the results. Not looking forward to replacing those studs down the road if I ever buy aftermarket wheels.
 
I see a lot of talk (especially on page 2) about torque 129 lbs versus 103.5 pounds. But I can't find any definitive answers on whether the spacers or the wheels should be torqued to 129 lbs? Seeing the shattered spacer (page 3 or 4?) really makes me want to be absolutely certain before I install them this weekend.

Have we figured out which is which?
 
I see a lot of talk (especially on page 2) about torque 129 lbs versus 103.5 pounds. But I can't find any definitive answers on whether the spacers or the wheels should be torqued to 129 lbs? Seeing the shattered spacer (page 3 or 4?) really makes me want to be absolutely certain before I install them this weekend.

Have we figured out which is which?

I emailed BONOSS asking them the same question and received this reply:
Screen Shot 2021-10-12 at 12.06.18 AM.png


I torqued the spacers to the hub at 103.5ft-lbs and the wheels to the spacers at 129ft-lbs. No issues in over 3000 miles of driving since installing them at those torque settings.
 
I emailed BONOSS asking them the same question and received this reply:
View attachment 720510

I torqued the spacers to the hub at 103.5ft-lbs and the wheels to the spacers at 129ft-lbs. No issues in over 3000 miles of driving since installing them at those torque settings.
Hah ha, I literally just got that same reply from them this morning.

But don't you have it backwards? Is the M14x1.5 thread he's referring to the threads on the spacers? If so, then I think he means tighten the spacers on the stock Tesla threads to 129 lbs and then tighten the wheels to the spacers' threads to 103.5.
 
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Hah ha, I literally just got that same reply from them this morning.

But don't you have it backwards? Is the M14x1.5 thread he's referring to the threads on the spacers? If so, then I think he means tighten the spacers on the stock Tesla threads to 129 lbs and then tighten the wheels to the spacers' threads to 103.5.
Yeah, his answer wasn't very clear as both the hub and spacer use M14x1.5 thread. I ended-up doing 103.5ft-lbs spacer to the hub and factory spec (129ft-lbs) wheel to the spacer based on more research, as that seems to be the general consensus that I found.
 
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I just bought a set of Bonoss (formerly Blox sport) 15/20mm. I'm currently on stock 18" aero, so hopefully this will eliminate the ugly offset and make the rims flush with the fenders.

I also ordered MPP comfort coilovers, and I'm intending to go with almost a full 1.5" drop, maybe a little less. My intention is to have a very small fender gap.

I've done a LOT of reading in this thread and the lowering thread, and these spacer sizes seem to be the best for a flush fitment without any poke, at least for the stock aeros. Personally I hate any poke whatsoever, so hopefully these will look nice and flush. I guess we'll see—they're set to be delivered in about two weeks, along with the coilovers possibly coming sooner. I hope the spacers look good with the drop! 🤞🏻
 
Hah ha, I literally just got that same reply from them this morning.

But don't you have it backwards? Is the M14x1.5 thread he's referring to the threads on the spacers? If so, then I think he means tighten the spacers on the stock Tesla threads to 129 lbs and then tighten the wheels to the spacers' threads to 103.5.
I think you're right, the other way around doesn't seem logical to me.