Solar40
Member
Funny thing is my fm transmitter blew went out. I connected the Bluetooth directly to my nvidia shield and it worked. Have sound now. Figured that should’ve work since the shield is hdmi
Only problem I have with my HDMI kit (on 2017 Model S 90D AP2) is that when watching youtube (iPhone iOS14) I switch the audio to the car's bluetooth but sometimes (maybe when the road is shaky?) it switches back to HDMI audio out (which is empty) and stops the video. Also Youtube doesn't stay in airplay mode but rather just mirrors it, which makes it a little less than full screen vs. airplay's. Anyone have ideas or know of any settings that should be made?
I have had a problem with @BearBu's HDMI interface unit I bought for my 2015 S with AP1 and am currently trying to resolve this with the eBay seller, dtp_intl. Those of you considering purchase may want to weigh up my experience and those of others.
At first, the only issue wiht the unit was the pause on the music stream each time the unit was flicked on using the RHS steering wheel button. Or going into reverse. It was unexpected but tolerable.
However, it appears a more recent Tesla SW update caused the cruise stalk to also engage or disengage the HDMI unit. So, each pull or push (as in resume or disengage) would also switch the view from camera to the HDMI box - or reverse. It also paused the music. Flick a second time and un-pause on the screen each time to get it back. This meant that you would need to engage or disengage cruise twice to get back to the screen view you had. The double pull for AP engagement also swaps the screen twice with the music pausing.
In short, the unit is now such a hassle that I stopped using it and referred back to the seller on eBay for assistance. I was informed there was a new CANBOX adapter that solves this. However, they also said I would have to purchase a completely new interface as well! What? Another $500 to make the product usable? And the next time? I have asked about a swap-out price or upgrade for current customers.
I will report back with what they come back with but the initial response was disappointing.
BTW, I also found that Waze on iPhone is no longer working through the HDMI interface which was a big part of my reason to have this unit in the first place (not the surround cameras) - not sure if this was Waze deciding to block mirroring or something else getting in the way.
I would suggest instead of phone mirror try TiVo stream 4K or nvidia Sheild or even the new google tv w/ chromecast should work.
I tried Amazon firestick 4K before but even USB power taken from the 12V lighter adapter using a high powered adapter would make it freeze, hence not enough power from usb. So I gave up on that. Also Firestick wouldn't recognize car's bluetooth audio option as audio out so I would have a bluetooth speaker in the car with me too. I gave up on the remote, low usb power, bluetooth speaker hassle and returned to the phone option.
I have had a problem with @BearBu's HDMI interface unit I bought for my 2015 S with AP1 and am currently trying to resolve this with the eBay seller, dtp_intl. Those of you considering purchase may want to weigh up my experience and those of others.
At first, the only issue wiht the unit was the pause on the music stream each time the unit was flicked on using the RHS steering wheel button. Or going into reverse. It was unexpected but tolerable.
However, it appears a more recent Tesla SW update caused the cruise stalk to also engage or disengage the HDMI unit. So, each pull or push (as in resume or disengage) would also switch the view from camera to the HDMI box - or reverse. It also paused the music. Flick a second time and un-pause on the screen each time to get it back. This meant that you would need to engage or disengage cruise twice to get back to the screen view you had. The double pull for AP engagement also swaps the screen twice with the music pausing.
In short, the unit is now such a hassle that I stopped using it and referred back to the seller on eBay for assistance. I was informed there was a new CANBOX adapter that solves this. However, they also said I would have to purchase a completely new interface as well! What? Another $500 to make the product usable? And the next time? I have asked about a swap-out price or upgrade for current customers.
I will report back with what they come back with but the initial response was disappointing.
BTW, I also found that Waze on iPhone is no longer working through the HDMI interface which was a big part of my reason to have this unit in the first place (not the surround cameras) - not sure if this was Waze deciding to block mirroring or something else getting in the way.
Thanks for the lead! Actually, it did de-activate with a single long push of the cruise stalk button (not double). What now remains unsolved is that switching into mirror mode pauses any streaming media from the phone (via BT) though on the Tesla screen it shows to still be playing. To overcome this it is a matter of hitting the play button and then again to put it back into play mode. As I don't toggle a lot that is not as serious an issue. Thanks again for your help!You need to press the button on the end of the AP stalk twice to turn off that "activation" feature.
Hi BearBu,- The music paused issue may be depending on what "smartphone to HDMI adaptor" you use. Some adaptor such as Apple lightning to HDMI cable could cause such issue
- The CANBox you have on hand is compatible with the cruise stalk trigger function with AP0 vehicle version (because AP0 doesn't have the steerling wheel triggering function.
- Due to the eBay policy / restriction, the seller cannot make , request for any direct contact with customer , or leave any direct contact details in their massaging content. Will talk to the eBay seller (one of the online agent) to seek for more flexible solution for your case
I can offer you the stand-alone CANBox without cruise stalk triggering at US$50 incl shipping. Please PM me if you are interested