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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

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Retrospective thread-summary pseudo-wiki for quick access:

What is it?

"Gee, I wish my Tesla, despite having access to the country's biggest quick charging network, could also charge on stations made for Other EVs too". Said no-one ever. Except... well, there are use cases for it. And with Tesla now teasing "CCS adapter support" in the car, I originally wanted to get ahead of the curve and upgrade my charge port ECU. It turns out that, while backwards compatibility SEEMS to be baked into the hardware design, something doesn't quite mesh properly. I set out to figure out what. The solution is to make your old charge port ("Gen3") act and feel like a Gen4 charge port, for the Gen4 charge port ECU, which supports CCS.

Does this apply to my car?

If you have a Model S or X: NO. S/X are completely different and a fair bit harder. Try this thread instead.
If it's a Model 3 built prior to Oct 2020 - chrome trim/resistive heater, yes - this thread is all about you - but long story short, you have a Gen3 car, and you need to make your Gen3 charge port look like Gen4 so you can install the Gen4 ECU. That's what the Bundle does (read on).
If it's a Model Y (any) or 3 (after Oct 2020) - black trim/heat pump, no - you already have Gen4. check for "CCS adapter support" in the Additional Vehicle Information under the Software tab of the car settings page. If it's "Not Installed" (and post-Oct 2020), then chances are, you have a Gen4 charge port and a "stripped" ECU. You can simply replace the stripped Gen4 (P/N 1537264-80-B) with an un-stripped full version (1537264-00-B), and ignore the rest of this fluff and hooplah about something called "A Bundle of Wires". Just get the -00- ECU and jump straight to installation.
If your car is any of these models, but NOT a NA (North American) car, then... (what're you doing here? EU cars already have native CCS, lol but) it's not recommended you follow along! The wiring is quite different. Even Canadian cars have had generally good luck, but some oddities (one user reported CCS not installed in a Model Y, but already had an -00- ECU - still trying to figure that one out). Posts are encouraged and we can probably find a solution!

Where do I get the ECU?

It's become a bit of an art. Don't be a Karen or Ken and your chances are better. At the moment they likely have mostly "-80-" ECUs (stripped - do not buy), but some SCs may still have "-00-" ECUs on hand. Be nice and expect a bit of a struggle (as of May 2022) to find one.

You can get the ECU "by name" by contacting Tesla Service one of two ways: one (the way I did it) was just to wander into a service center and ask for a part at the counter. Two (I've tried, and it worked - but with a little confusion as parts ordering doesn't seem to be a common ask), is to "schedule service" as "other", and explain what you want to order. The part number is "1537264-00-B" for the Gen4 ECU (for North America at least).

And the Bundle of Wires?​

As far as the wiring adapter (2017-Oct 2020) goes (the result of this thread so far), there's a friendly neighborhood eBay seller with a similar bird's name and a bag over his head saying "definitely not a bird", selling a little thing called "A bundle of wires with a board" (formerly "...with crimps"). Search around for it on the Google - you'll find it!

There's also now a second source supplying these Bundles of Wires - search for "2muchsun adapter" and head over to their website's Products page to find it! Same price, different source - share the love.

As to why on earth it's called "A bundle of wires"...? The threat of Karens and Kens that make everyone's days bad.

It's not available. Can I build my own?​

Sure. Here's a complete shopping list!

What does A Bundle of Wires with Crimps do, exactly?​

The Gen4 charge port was redesigned to use a PCB (printed circuit board) on the charge port for its low-voltage connections, port heating, and thermal sensors. The original (Gen3) port just has individual sensors and wires placed around the port, all coming to one connector. In the process of redesigning it, they also needed a cover to protect against exposure to the high-voltage terminals on the new port (not present/needed on the old, fully enclosed port - no HV is exposed anywhere in this process). They changed the thermal sensors' values a fair bit, as well. So, the adapter:
  • adds a little resistance to the existing 10k thermistors, and since the mapping can't be made to match 1:1, it places them in an electrical position that aligns with overheat protection, but otherwise always seems hotter than it really is. It's slightly skewed towards being overly cautious. It's designed to align "real vs. measured temp" at about 160f. That means it definitely won't allow your port to melt, and preserves safety.
  • moves those thermal sensors from Therm1 & Therm2 (Gen3) to Therm1 & Therm3 (Gen4)
  • adds a 47k pull-down resistor to satisfy the "high voltage port cover" present on the Gen4 port
  • adds a 2.7k pull-down resistor to the prox line to replace the resistor that changed places from Gen3 to Gen4
  • groups all the grounds together (for therm & signal) just like Gen4 does using the PCB

How do I build the Bundle?

Follow the photos in this post, which follow the wiring diagram in this post (my "final answer" so far). Note that the pin numbers are shown on the connector housings... in fairly small print. Look at the photos throughout that page for help. Note that there's a terminal lock on each connector (press both sides to activate... screwdriver in and pry up both sides to de-activate). Care is taken not to activate it before shipping so hopefully it arrives "open" and you can slide pins into it properly.

How do I install the Bundle and the ECU?

Distilled version: Wait for an update, install the new -00- ECU (and Bundle, if applicable), install the update, done. Optionally bypass the update wait using Service Mode, which appears to now be more broadly available. Installing an update or doing a "reinstall software" does the same thing.

BYO "getting into the area and pulling the ECU out" though. Involves some minor trunk-liner-pulling. Relatively easy 10-minute job if familiar, perhaps 30 if not.

Another helpful installation post for a Gen4 (2020+) swap: this post - note that this is what Gen4 looks like: charge port connected by pipes, not cables.

Great, where do I get the adapter itself, then?
Two options I know of:
- Tesla Korea has been shipping a NA-compatible CCS adapter for a while now. It's robust and I like it a lot. It's a pass-thru adapter, so there's no logic in it, and no way to know it's Korean or not. Just like the J1772 adapter, the car can't even tell you have it plugged in (thus obviously not from where you got it). If you get it, you've got it. Somehow, it seems Tesla Korea has just opened the floodgates to these, and Harumio - a Korean shopping service that many people have bought adapters from, just has them available on-tap to ship today, almost as fast as Amazon. See here: Tesla CCS Combo 1 Adapter & CHAdeMO Adapter
- EVHub, a friendly Ukranian company (woo 🇺🇦), has a NA-compatible CCS adapter as well. This is what I have. It's robust and I like it. It's basically a CNC'd copy of the Tesla Korea adapter, electrically. Find that adapter here: Tesla US CCS1/CCS2 (400A)
See discussions here:

And now, the original post (mostly irrelevant today, but kept around for context):



Anticipating the release of the CCS(1)-to-Tesla adapter, I'm looking into getting my car ready for it. Already aware of the Gen4 ECU, I started digging in.

So far, I found the Gen4 Charge Port ECU is really the only part needing to be swapped. It's already present in Model 3 and Y starting at an unknown date (to me) - some time in 2020 I think was when the Gen4 started being the standard part for both cars. If it is, your "Additional Vehicle Info" after the holiday update should show CCS as being "Enabled". The Gen4 ECU contains a CCS PLC modem (relay, transformer, and a Qualcomm PLC chip) that enables the RF-frequency Ethernet interface to ride over the top of analog +/-12v J1772 for DC charging.

Here's where I stand: I walked into a Tesla service center, laid out my low expectations (I was expecting to have to eBay it, but thought it was worth a try), and asked about the specific part number: 1537264. They looked it up, found it, and initially grabbed the part for EU spec (I think that one was "1537264-20-B"). Quickly found the mistake (none were in stock), found the NA part number (1537264-00-B), and found one in stock. I bought it then and there, over the counter, no problem. Amazing.

1640433262953.png


All this info can be found on the Tesla EPC here: Parts Catalog -- to access it, go to the link once, sign in with your Tesla account, then close the tab, come back here, click it again - it'll zero-in on exactly the page that way.

1640433300611.png


1640433343954.png


Swapping it was super easy - well, after you go through the hassle of ripping your trunk lining apart to access it (yuck, sticky sealant goop in the trunk gasket). Once you get the lining peeled back around the charge port area, the ECU is right there... big bright red LED (on the old version), held in with 1 screw. I powered-down the car (12v negative pull; contactor plug release, "CLUNK") before I unplugged/started messing. Swapped it, plugged it back in, booted up... "baap-baap-baap"... some alert. I expected that. When you swap an ECU, it needs to be reflashed, which is what an update does. I anticipated the holiday update and I also charged to 100% just in case it didn't come or I had issues. Well, it came, but I had issues 😂

There were 3 errors stacked together: "software update required (schedule service)", "Unable to charge - Service is required (Charge port component is not detected)", and "Unable to charge (disconnect and retry)". Before the update, it would even refuse to shift to D until I confirm an unusual message saying that it REALLY thinks the charge cable is connected, but it can't be sure... so I tap a button saying "charge cable is unplugged". I kinda expected all this.

1640433520082.png


What I wasn't expecting, though, is the holiday update not fixing everything. It took care of the "software update required", but I was left with 2 of the 3 messages, and could drive normally again... though charge port would open weirdly (and slam abruptly when closed), wouldn't unlock, and obviously wouldn't charge. I drove to a Tesla service center and dove into Service Mode, where I found a more detailed description of the problem:
1640433682363.png


CP_a109_thermistorIrrational and CP_a009_coverOpen. Strange. I like that it has rationality checks for the thermistor 😂🤓 lots of devices don't, happily report -300c or 1672c or something. haha. Anyway, that's an odd error, no? Also, the coverOpen fault -- its message states that the cover can't be confirmed closed for some reason (sadly I didn't take a photo of that one expanded). That's also fairly odd.

This is where I sit today (still at 80% SOC and no plans, so I've got a while to figure it out. haha). I still have the original ECU I can swap in, in worst case, but I hope it doesn't come to that.

At the SC where I parked to get Service Mode, they weren't busy, so I poked my head in and - first confessing that I don't expect miracles since this is DIY - I asked if they knew anything about it. Indeed, they say, the Gen4 ECU should be compatible, and it should be a drop-in. Said that an "update" doesn't always contain all firmware, so they staged a "full reflash" to my car to see if that'd fix it. Sadly, it didn't (no change). After that, they say, schedule service for further digging. I don't quite want to bug them yet, but tomorrow I plan to go out and take a deeper look into the hardware for any potential issues (like, maybe the other end of a cable came loose when I was fiddling wires? Seems unlikely, but hmm).

At least my CCS adapter support is now "enabled" :)
1640434429152.png


That's where I'm at, and I just wanted to get this thread rolling! I really wanted to find any info about this charge port ECU, perhaps its pinout, or anyone else with a similar DIY-upgrade experience... couldn't find anything on search. So, something now exists!
 
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Thanks for the information! I have no intent to do the swap, but learned from you that service mode entry is dependent on location now(apparently). Sadly I can't screw with it unless I start spoofing satellites.
The question is can us mere mortals put the car in "Service Mode" when parked near a service center? I suspect FalconFour has some inside information he is not willing to share or can't.
 
The question is can us mere mortals put the car in "Service Mode" when parked near a service center? I suspect FalconFour has some inside information he is not willing to share or can't.
I'm just worried that if Tesla knows it's "in the open", they'll "change the locks" again. I'd hate to be the one responsible for yet another round of locking away repair access. So let me tell it to you in riddle. If you can't figure out the riddle, there are no more hints. Call it a good faith barrier to entry :)

The fabled land of repair is found at the intersection of virtual and physical space. Once you find the physical space, the logo of your car's model name is the door of the virtual space. Do not knock, but rather press a while and the gatekeeper will appear. Write the single word of the name of that which you seek. Make a left turn while standing still, as you press the button to walk through the door.

I hope that's a perfect balance. 😄 Merry Christmas, lol 🎄

Now, I'm off to go replace my original ECU to make sure these faults are fake :)
 
Won't you need another update to bring it up to the same version as the car?
To get it upgraded, sure. To just see if it resolves part of the stack of faults I now have, though... Should work! Likely even enable charging again. If all I see is "update required", I'll call that a successful verification that the faults (thermistor that has a fault, and door sensor fault) are related to the new ECU itself and not an actual problem with the car.
 
I was very wrong 😂

7B15A1B1-3C34-4FFE-A376-DD6B90820743.jpeg


I'll coin the phrase "violently incompatible" here. lol. The car wouldn't even START (it closed, then opened the contactors, when I re-attached the 12v). Okay, so it starts with the old ECU partially attached (just unplugged the smallest, car-side connector). I'll drive to Tesla, pull the plug, reattach, boot up, get to service mode, and trigger a reinstall to get it updated.

What a ride. I should keep my keyboard shut about expectations 😂😂😂

Also, we now know what the charge cable message looks like in the updated UI. haha.

221CA505-37B7-4678-A0D1-F13FEE23A655.jpeg
 
@FalconFour I appreciate the DIY approach you are taking to update your 3 to accept CCS1 charging. I have a June 2018 build and I hope that eventually Tesla will get around to offering an official hardware upgrade service for us older owners. I have, and use quite frequently, a CHAdeMO adapter and if a hardware update allows CCS charging, I'll get that adapter too.
 
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Update (with original charge port ECU) went perfectly. And it worked as smoothly as I expected the initial Gen4 upgrade to go. Yay, I can finally say this is the first time I've seen the holiday update without a nagging alert at the bottom 😂

ECU Gen4 is the issue, then. Not the car. Hooray... more investigation 😭
969BF0CD-0798-4CE3-8920-264F839F3AEC.jpeg


BTW, mine's a June 2018 car as well - "birthday" of June 26, 2018 😁
 
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Not so great news so far. 😩 Stopped by Tesla service again today. Explained everything so far. They're not sure what the problem is. Seems it ought to work, but it doesn't. I'm on the old ECU for now and it works fine. Scheduled a proper service visit for late January, the earliest slot for a proper visit.

I feel I'm at the intersection of either the ECU is faulty, it needs special configuration, maybe a wiring adapter, or it just won't work at all at the moment. Wish I could find some detailed info about the ECU and its possible wiring revisions -- maybe the door mechanism changed, and there may be an additional thermistor added, or something (just speculating). Wiring adapter could fix the thermistor issue, but if the door sensor is totally different, that could require a much more significant set of parts replacements. Hopeful for the first case (bad ECU). Worst case, I guess, I'll just have to wait to see when the CCS adapter is formally launched.

Anyone with the ability to dig up any more info about the charge port ECUs or the differences in revisions would be quite helpful in the time between now and late Jan.

While we're here, here's a photo of the Gen4 ECU I realized I hadn't posted yet. Note the shiny little transformer in the lower-left of the board. That corner set of components including the Qualcomm IC are the parts needed to squiggle the high-frequency PLC (powerline communication, similar to/same as that found in "powerline Ethernet" adapters) over the control pilot line of the J1772 plug. Not present on the earlier version, thus the CCS "enabled/not enabled" distinction.

1640745681198.png
 
I'd guess it's making use of a volume purchase agreement. Cheaper that way than to buy a smaller, more appropriate chip, that's not yet scaled to Tesla's volume. Especially with the chip crunch today... it's not a lack of materials, but a series of weird, complex supply chain issues.

This is totally a manifestation of the oddities of the chip shortage. At least a whole edge of pins on that chip aren't even used 😂
 
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Here's the original ECU. I'm noting a disturbing set of differences in the populated pins between the two, on the left connector.

1640780466087.png


In the old one:
X___XX__X___
XXXXXXX_XXX_


In the new one:
X___X_XXX__X
XXXXXXX_X_XX


Bold are differences. So, there may be a handful of relocated pins, possibly relocated due to a different sensor being used. 😶

This may not end up being possible. 😭 At least without a different ECU revision. I wonder about the EU version of the Gen4 ECU, though...

update: Googled around for a "-20-B" EU version. Found this:
1640781036320.png


Same configuration of pins. 🤔 hmm. Can't help but wonder if there's another variant out there. After all, what's Tesla using to replace charge port ECUs on 2018s today? Surely they're not still making the old non-CCS version?

Lastly, here's the diagram from the parts catalog, that appears to be saying there are different port revisions:
1640781917359.png
 
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I find these type of posts really interesting, even though this is not something I would personally do myself. Appreciate you sharing your information as you work through it. There are definitely DIY types who will appreciate someone blazing a trail, and even for those of us who are not, but like learning new things, this is helpful.

Thanks again for sharing.
 
Where does the connector with different pins populated head to? Are there corresponding missing wires in the harness as well. or are they all populated?

I'd be somewhat surprised they'd have a separate module if additional components downstream were required. I feel if it was "properly" designed, the communication would be handled on that component, separate of any other controllers downstream.
 
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Where does the connector with different pins populated head to? Are there corresponding missing wires in the harness as well. or are they all populated?

I'd be somewhat surprised they'd have a separate module if additional components downstream were required. I feel if it was "properly" designed, the communication would be handled on that component, separate of any other controllers downstream.
This ECU is the one that connects directly to the charge port components and "brings them onto" the CAN bus for the rest of the car to integrate with. It is, thus, the part that handles the other components. These two connectors lead to the charge port door on one side, and the charge port sensors & components on the other side, it seems. (door: actuator motor, and likely one position sensor; charge port: thermistors, LEDs, lock actuator, pilot/prox signals, and the magnetic/hall effect door sensor)

More deep dive here:

I haven't dug into exactly what pins are present on mine, but if it's useful, I might do a deeper dive on that (requires tearing up the trunk lining again... something I've become somewhat adept at. haha)
 
Here's the original ECU. I'm noting a disturbing set of differences in the populated pins between the two, on the left connector.

View attachment 749485

In the old one:
X___XX__X___
XXXXXXX_XXX_


In the new one:
X___X_XXX__X
XXXXXXX_X_XX


Bold are differences. So, there may be a handful of relocated pins, possibly relocated due to a different sensor being used. 😶

This may not end up being possible. 😭 At least without a different ECU revision. I wonder about the EU version of the Gen4 ECU, though...

update: Googled around for a "-20-B" EU version. Found this:
View attachment 749488

Same configuration of pins. 🤔 hmm. Can't help but wonder if there's another variant out there. After all, what's Tesla using to replace charge port ECUs on 2018s today? Surely they're not still making the old non-CCS version?

Lastly, here's the diagram from the parts catalog, that appears to be saying there are different port revisions:
View attachment 749490
I think part 16 is just a cover that mates with the back cover, part 4.
4 - ASY,CLOSEOUT PNL,CP,ALL REGIONS

My M3LR was built on 9/21 and I got the car on 9/23/21. I do not have the proper module (CCS: NOT installed) :( So Tesla clearly used old chips in some brand new cars :( I am curious if your car has some different wire harnesses that are not depicted in the parts guide. I watched a few videos on the other side of the pond and some of the CCS upgrades requires new harnesses (removal of rear seats), clearly different charge ports too. So in the end maybe a gen3 to gen 4 is not a simple hardware/firmware swap. This would make even official upgrades VERY expensive if you have 2 hours of labor and additional assemblies beyond a simple ECO swap and flash. Even with a simple swap, I bet it will be $300-$400. PLUS the actually CCS adapter would need to be purchased, which I suspect will be well over $200-300. So I don't know how worth it would be to me to pay $700 for CCS compatibility or $1000 in the case of 2 hours of labor and additional wires sets. I say that from my perspective who in 4+ years of owning an EV, I have only once DC fast charged/Supercharged.

How much was the ECU Gen 4? Maybe you just have a bad module?
 
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This ECU is the one that connects directly to the charge port components and "brings them onto" the CAN bus for the rest of the car to integrate with. It is, thus, the part that handles the other components. These two connectors lead to the charge port door on one side, and the charge port sensors & components on the other side, it seems. (door: actuator motor, and likely one position sensor; charge port: thermistors, LEDs, lock actuator, pilot/prox signals, and the magnetic/hall effect door sensor)

More deep dive here:

I haven't dug into exactly what pins are present on mine, but if it's useful, I might do a deeper dive on that (requires tearing up the trunk lining again... something I've become somewhat adept at. haha)
Since the connector with the different pinout appears to be the black cable that directly connects to the Charge port (per the video), is it possible that replacing the charge port door assembly with a newer version would be sufficient to get this working?

(I'm overly optimistic here because I had my charge port motor assembly replaced under warranty as it was 'getting lazy' over time).
 
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