The reason why I said it is there is a phantom retrofit coming out one day maybe where 2 part numbers were listed for the M3Yup, you've got it. Either plan is fine. Should really keep it to "get to service mode", though (the less written about it, the better). Yeah, you can drive in service mode and it'll stay through the power-cycle reboot. Waiting for an update is best, though - no need to log yet another "some rando playing around in service mode" usage case that'll inspire Tesla to "change the locks" again.
No, most definitely notSurprised anyone could reach that conclusion here. This is all custom work, building an adapter, not replacing wires.
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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach
- Thread starter FalconFour
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This is all just a weird non-sequitur. There's nothing "phantom" going on anywhere, especially not in hardware.
There's 2 part numbers listed for the Model 3, because there's a Gen4 platform, and there's a Gen3 platform. The parts catalog could definitely stand to be cleaner (they're asked to cram too much onto a single page), but what they show in the catalog is of 2 different cars. Amusingly, they don't even bother to admit that there's an -80- Gen4 variant out there that lacks PLC capabilities.
android04
Active Member
Sounds good. Only thing I would clarify on Plan B is that YOU don't download the software update to the car, it does that by itself. The car or app will notify you once it's downloaded, and asks you to install it. Wait for the notification that it's ready to install and proceed with the installation steps before beginning the install.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
Got my ECU thanks to breaking down in SLC:
If you need one I might give them a call. The guy who sold it to me said one of his buddies just did this on a 2019
Now I need to order my adapter
If you need one I might give them a call. The guy who sold it to me said one of his buddies just did this on a 2019
Now I need to order my adapter
I’m ready to go. Wish me luck 
2019 SR+
I’m curious to see what kind of speeds an SR+ will get.
2019 SR+I’m curious to see what kind of speeds an SR+ will get.
Did you remove the lower center trunk trim? The panel has a section extend all the way to fill the empty space. I can see the ecu after it, but very small gap to work on.
FWIW, for me it's never been a "clean" removal, except in the initial R&D phase where I pulled that whole side of trunk liner out, to get clean and clear access to the whole charge port system. Since then, it's been more evident that it's always going to be a bit of a hassle to get in there... just, a variable level of hassle. That whole side trim is molded down into a pocket on the left side of the trunk, a pocket which doesn't come out willingly. I think there are 3 total snap-nuts that hold various pieces of trim in, and an LED that should be unplugged (don't forget to re-plug!) as well.
Minimal approach: pull up the trunk seal in that area, pull the pop-nuts out to allow it to flex, then pull the side of it back, reach in there and fumble blindly (do. not. drop. the. bolt. upon. fear. of. death).
Slow and steady approach: pull up the trunk seal (or fully remove it... but beware possible tar-like gummy crud that sticks to EVERYTHING), pull the top & bottom plastic trunk trim pieces off (more snap nuts, check especially on top), pull more snap nuts off, and pull that pocket free of the left side cubby. That'll give you tons more room to see, but it also won't come COMPLETELY out, because it's a long piece that extends into the rear seat area.
For perspective: the service manual procedure has you pulling the WHOLE left side of the trunk apart, like I did in my original R&D. Definitely not, uh... not an easy task. But they only did that because it's the "perfectly clean, billable hours, don't mess anything up" service procedure where Elon's own car can be serviced, guaranteed, without messing anything up. (on a related note: you think any SC follows the books?
LOL)
Minimal approach: pull up the trunk seal in that area, pull the pop-nuts out to allow it to flex, then pull the side of it back, reach in there and fumble blindly (do. not. drop. the. bolt. upon. fear. of. death).
Slow and steady approach: pull up the trunk seal (or fully remove it... but beware possible tar-like gummy crud that sticks to EVERYTHING), pull the top & bottom plastic trunk trim pieces off (more snap nuts, check especially on top), pull more snap nuts off, and pull that pocket free of the left side cubby. That'll give you tons more room to see, but it also won't come COMPLETELY out, because it's a long piece that extends into the rear seat area.
For perspective: the service manual procedure has you pulling the WHOLE left side of the trunk apart, like I did in my original R&D. Definitely not, uh... not an easy task. But they only did that because it's the "perfectly clean, billable hours, don't mess anything up" service procedure where Elon's own car can be serviced, guaranteed, without messing anything up. (on a related note: you think any SC follows the books?
LOL)
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
Next person to do it has to bring a camera. I would, but I am still at the putting the harness together stage.
On a personal note, I just had the HV Bat Contractor replaced in my car while I was in Salt Lake City and now the HVAC doesn't work. Some shops don't do the correct procedure. They did stay until 1:15 in the morning to finish so I could get back on the road home, great guys, but very cold roadtrip.
On a personal note, I just had the HV Bat Contractor replaced in my car while I was in Salt Lake City and now the HVAC doesn't work. Some shops don't do the correct procedure. They did stay until 1:15 in the morning to finish so I could get back on the road home, great guys, but very cold roadtrip.
So I’m literally doing the install as we speak. What type of photo/videos were you thinking?
RayK
Active Member
I'm not Randy, but if it were me, I'd like to see which interior trunk panels need removing and how to do so with minimum (i.e., no) damage. I think I know enough on how to swap out the ECU and install the bag-o-wires kit.
I went with plan C with my 2021 Stripped PLC ECU 4 (1537264-80-B) -> (1537264-00-B):
- Tools: 10MM socket with extension, flat head screw driver, and a stub flat head screwdriver (optional).
- Drive to SC and park outside.
- Pick up your new ECU at the service desk.
- Head back to your car and turn on service mode.
- Remove the plastic locking tab in the upper left hand corner with a stub flat head screwdriver. You may be able to get by with a regular screwdriver.
- Pull down the felt liner until you see the interior light, disconnect this light. The upper plastic trim will fall down. Don't pull this down too far or you may break the right side locking tab.
- Pull down the liner with force and use a 10MM socket to break the bolt free on the old ECU (Maybe other cares are not a hex bolt?)
- Hand loosen the bolt so it doesn't fall into the rear panel.
- Use the screw driver to push the locking tabs tabs on each of the three connectors, then rock the driver to release the connector with the screwdriver. I removed the connectors in this order: right to left.
- Remove old ECU and place new one into position. Each ECU has two plastic fingers on the back, be sure there are slid under the metal structure of the rear panel. If you don't, the ECU will spin even with the bolt secured! I placed the connectors back in the order of left to right.
- Car service mode will be pissed about missing firmware. Request a software download from the menu. I had to request twice before the car allowed me to install the software again.
- After about 20 minutes the car rebooted and CCS was enabled.
- Bolt the ECU back in, by hand at first, then use the socket wrench.
- Push the light connector back into place.
- Put the felt back in and upper plastic molding.
- You may need to fully separate the locking tab into each of it's respective pieces in order to get the molding, felt liner, and plastic tab to alight and lock. Be sure the gasket is fully seated around the entire trunk and the felt liner is on the outward seam and not directly touching the chassis.
When I showed 2 days later (a month before my actual appointment) the rep had to talk with the service manager, but he came out with the part. He asked me if I still wanted to keep my appointment. I said that's fine as it included tire inflation and some boombox recall (which I honestly thought was already applied with 2022.12.3.x).
Just as I was driving away, I got a notification that my service appointment had been rescheduled for TODAY and was closed out seconds later. So I guess that's one way to get an ECU via app alone without any phone calls or real appointment/labor charges.
I ordered directly with Harumio and it took 2 weeks start to finish to ship the CCS 1 adapters to Boston. I requested FedEx and did change my Tesla password before ordering and after the package was received. It does sound like you do not need to provide your Tesla account any longer. That's cool. I did feel like I was taking a big risk. I also had to use some payment service since I was buying in bulk. That was the hardest part and was a bit nerve racking.
I think I looked past the risk and really wanted some vengeance for purchasing a car with a stripped PLC.
I guess there is a market for everything, but I guess I will list my 80-B on eBay with a huge disclaimer. My trash my be someone else's treasure.
See pictures.
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MSHampton
Member
Got my adapter in the mail yesterday from humario and will picked up the board today in Plano tx! Almost there!
My understanding is that that Gen4 (CCS-enabled) ECU will directly replace Part #1536264-80-B (i.e., the Gen4 ECU without CCS-capability Tesla inexplicably put into ~06/21 to ~10/21 Models 3 and Y). And I'm told (here) that that part can be ordered new directly from Tesla (may be a wait to receive?).
As to whether it will work in earlier (Gen3 ECU) Models 3 and Y, I leave the answer to that question up to FalconFour and other successful DIY'ers.
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RayK
Active Member
I hope you didn't spend more than $140 or so. That seller was listing them at $90 before and I was hoping to score the next one that was put up for a BIN. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for it?
You didn’t ask me but I paid $154 after tax for mine new from a service center
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