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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

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So sorry if this has been covered already, but for newer cars with the "stripped" ECU, after doing the ECU swap do you still need to put it in service mode?
You don't have to use service mode if:
1) you wait for an update to come through "naturally" (same update process as ever) OR
2) you ask a Tesla service tech to push a "reflash" to your car - same effect as reinstall via service, or taking an update (it makes the "orange clock" pop up to install now/later).

For those who have used the "Service Mode - Software Reinstall" route to update to the proper firmware after the ECU swap does the Software have to be downloaded again through WiFi or is it already stored for reinstall?
It just reinstalls what's already downloaded. No download required.
 
You don't have to use service mode if:
1) you wait for an update to come through "naturally" (same update process as ever) OR
2) you ask a Tesla service tech to push a "reflash" to your car - same effect as reinstall via service, or taking an update (it makes the "orange clock" pop up to install now/later).


It just reinstalls what's already downloaded. No download required.
Very informative. Thank you.
 
You don't have to use service mode if:
1) you wait for an update to come through "naturally" (same update process as ever) OR
2) you ask a Tesla service tech to push a "reflash" to your car - same effect as reinstall via service, or taking an update (it makes the "orange clock" pop up to install now/later).


It just reinstalls what's already downloaded. No download required.

But it identifies the different module and then makes the proper changes for it?
 
You don't have to use service mode if:
1) you wait for an update to come through "naturally" (same update process as ever) OR
2) you ask a Tesla service tech to push a "reflash" to your car - same effect as reinstall via service, or taking an update (it makes the "orange clock" pop up to install now/later).


It just reinstalls what's already downloaded. No download required.
Service mode shouldn't be a problem, I live 5 miles from an SC, I was just curious about the process. First I have to find an ECU!
 
The 470 ohm resistor that FalconFour is talking about is what is added in series to a 2.2K resistor in order to obtain (nearly) 2.7K. It has nothing to do with the 47K resistor.
sorry! I misunderstood that . thank you so much. In addition, if I do the 'bundles wire' myself, Should I use 10K-ohm instead of 22K-ohm according to the FalconFour final confirmed,diagram.
 

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With my final shipment of parts from Mouser arriving Friday evening (100 male pins; that was the minimum order size), I think I have everything needed to do the upgrade:
  • CCS adapter from South Korea
  • 1537264-00-B Gen4 ECU from Tesla
  • Pins, sockets, connectors and resistors from DigiKey and Mouser
  • Wire (20AWG), heat shrink, soldering iron, solder, tools
  • Software update 2022.12.3.16 ready to be installed
It would be nice to have CCS charging available during my upcoming trip to Ashland, OR although it doesn't appear to be totally necessary. There's several J1772 chargers near where I'm staying and one CHAdeMO station only a few miles away (CCS there too). Supercharger availability is not ideal; one station to the North (40 miles in the wrong direction) in Grants Pass, the other in Yreka which I'm planning to hit on the way there and back home. It's also 40 miles from Ashland. So the plan is to top off to about 90% in Yreka going North and then make sure that I have at least 60-70 miles of range before leaving Ashland.
 
>> Wire (20AWG)
Where do you get your wires?

I try finding short rolls of different colors for a Solar controller project.

I got some rolls on Amazon,
but they were tinned copper, not pure stranded copper.
I don't like those too much. Too thin, like human hairs.

I lookwd at some suppliers but you need to get a full spool.
Walmart sold some 25 ft sets, that's my current option.
 
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