Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

[Bunklung]

Here is the correction code for the official Tesla retrofit on older model 3:

Correction code 440151060.15 NOTE: Unless otherwise explicitly stated in the procedure, the above correction code and FRT reflect all of the work required to perform this procedure, including the linked procedures. Do not stack correction codes unless explicitly told to do so.

The is found at service.tesla.com and it's under High Voltage -> Charge Inlet -> CCS Retrofit (Thanks to: gjas24 (u/gjas24) - Reddit)

 

[Ferjy_Fangle]

The Tesla Service Manual seems to indicate that for Model Y's the Disconnection of 12V power is not required. However, it appears that the Model 3 requires the Disconnection of 12V power. Attached is the Model Y's ECU - Charge Port (Remove and Replace) instructions.

FYI - Tesla removed the requirement for 12V disconnect on the Model 3 for ECU remove and replace the week ending June 4th.

 

[Craig_in_PA]

Better than V2. Semi-ideal conditions - 19% SoC, preconditioned, 77 degrees F outside. The CCS adapter is everything I hoped the Chademo adapter would be.

350 kW EA station.


The charge curve would ramp up to peak, crash back to 0, then ramp up again over and over. It stopped doing that after 4-5 crashes.

 

[RayK]

Where do you get your wires?

I try finding short rolls of different colors for a Solar controller project.

I got some rolls on Amazon,
but they were tinned copper, not pure stranded copper.
I don't like those too much. Too thin, like human hairs.

Amazon.com: BINNEKER 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit 6 Color Red Black White Blue Green Yellow(6m/19.7ft Each) High Resistant 200 deg C 600V Electronic Wire 20 AWG Stranded Wire 100 Strands Tinned Copper Wire Hook Up : Everything Else

Buy BINNEKER 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit 6 Color Red Black White Blue Green Yellow(6m/19.7ft Each) High Resistant 200 deg C 600V Electronic Wire 20 AWG Stranded Wire 100 Strands Tinned Copper Wire Hook Up: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

smile.amazon.com

They are high strand count, tinned copper wires so you do need to be very careful when stripping the insulation. I typically roll the strands together, tin the wire with solder then hand crimp the wire onto the pin/socket using a small pair of needle-nosed pliers. I do have crimping tools but have preferred this method for years. If space permits within the connector housing, I will also solder the crimped connection.

 

[MP3Mike]

For those interested in trying to get Tesla involved, you could try opening a service request and specify correction code 440151060.15 (Combo Adapter - Charge Port (Retrofit)): https://service.tesla.com/docs/Mode...UID-49B8570D-6658-40F7-980F-F78C40BA706E.html

It seems that the only thing that needs to be done besides swapping the ECU out is changing a parameter:

Installation procedure is the reverse of removal, except for the following:

1. Set the "Native Charge Port" value:
   1. In Toolbox, open the "Infotainment Dashboard".
   2. Select "Vehicle Configuration".
   3. Select "Read Config" and then click Run.
   4. Scroll down to the option "plc_adapter_type".
   5. Select "Native Charge Port".
   6. Select "Apply Changes" and then click Run.
2. Reinstall the vehicle firmware. See Software Reinstall.

Note: The instructions don't list what part number to use...

 

[MLXXXp]

I typically roll the strands together, tin the wire with solder then hand crimp the wire onto the pin/socket using a small pair of needle-nosed pliers. I do have crimping tools but have preferred this method for years. If space permits within the connector housing, I will also solder the crimped connection.

If you tin the wire with solder, you should always resolder the joint after crimping. With a purely mechanical crimp, no mater how tight, the solder will cold flow over time and the connection will become loose and non-conductive.

It's also better not to tin stranded wire in the first place. The idea behind stranded wire is that the smaller individual strands make the overall wire much more flexible. If you tin it, solder will likely wick up into the strands, essentially forming a length of solid wire. Through vibration, this solid section may work harden over time and break much sooner than the stranded length would.

 

[smatthew]

If you tin the wire with solder, you should always resolder the joint after crimping. With a purely mechanical crimp, no mater how tight, the solder will cold flow over time and the connection will become loose and non-conductive.

It's also better not to tin stranded wire in the first place. The idea behind stranded wire is that the smaller individual strands make the overall wire much more flexible. If you tin it, solder will likely wick up into the strands, essentially forming a length of solid wire. Through vibration, this solid section may work harden over time and break much sooner than the stranded length would.

A properly done crimp beats solder in both lower resistance, and flexibility. I'll use a parallel crimp splice any-day over soldering in large part due to the points MLXXXp outlined above.

I built my harness using crimps exactly for that reason. I know we're not driving spaceships, but to the best of my knowledge, NASA doesn't allow hand soldered stranded wires in their harnesses.

NOTE: That is not to say that the soldered bundles of wire are a problem. I would have had no problem using a bundle of wires if that acquisition process had worked out. Some would say soldering vs crimping is more of a gilding the Lilly type of issue. Especially since Tesla provides harness soldering directions for repair work.

 

[wlee]

Is there error code like "CP_a051 alert" showing on your screen panel that ever happend in @FalconFour retrofit.?

I my memory with 1537264-00-B I don't have this alert.
It works perfectly with FalconFour's kit on my GEN3 model 3.

 

[Watts_Up]

Amazon.com: BINNEKER 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit 6 Color Red Black White Blue Green Yellow(6m/19.7ft Each) High Resistant 200 deg C 600V Electronic Wire 20 AWG Stranded Wire 100 Strands Tinned Copper Wire Hook Up : Everything Else

Buy BINNEKER 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit 6 Color Red Black White Blue Green Yellow(6m/19.7ft Each) High Resistant 200 deg C 600V Electronic Wire 20 AWG Stranded Wire 100 Strands Tinned Copper Wire Hook Up: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

smile.amazon.com

They are high strand count, tinned copper wires so you do need to be very careful when stripping the insulation. I typically roll the strands together, tin the wire with solder then hand crimp the wire onto the pin/socket using a small pair of needle-nosed pliers. I do have crimping tools but have preferred this method for years. If space permits within the connector housing, I will also solder the crimped connection.

Thank you for the reply. I am not really sold using tinned copper wires. Here are the AC/DC Wires I was considering:

$39 - 8 COLORS 100ft - 800 Ft 18 AWG True Spec Gauge BLUE RED Black Primary Wire CABLE

$96 - AC/DC WIRE - AUTOMOTIVE WIRE 16 AWG HIGH TEMP GXL STRANDED PURE COPPER WIRE 12 COLORS 25 FT EA

$130 - AC/DC Wire - 12 AWG Automotive High Temp GXL Wire Stranded Copper Wire - 50 Feet Coil each

 

[RayK]

Thank you for the reply. I am not really sold using tinned copper wires. Here are the AC/DC Wires I was considering:

$39 - 8 COLORS 100ft - 800 Ft 18 AWG True Spec Gauge BLUE RED Black Primary Wire CABLE

$96 - AC/DC WIRE - AUTOMOTIVE WIRE 16 AWG HIGH TEMP GXL STRANDED PURE COPPER WIRE 12 COLORS 25 FT EA

$130 - AC/DC Wire - 12 AWG Automotive High Temp GXL Wire Stranded Copper Wire - 50 Feet Coil each

If I'm not mistaken, the TE pins and sockets are designed to accept 20AWG (0.52mm²) for the best fit and the maximum size possible (0.56mm max. WIRE RANGE spec). Anything smaller will fit but could have trouble getting a good crimp. Larger gauge wire (12, 16 and probably 18AWG) cannot be used with those terminals, as far as I'm concerned. I chose to use 20AWG, the size smaller than the maximum cross section spec of 0.56mm², since I usually solder tin the end of the wire to keep all the strands together when crimping. I've verified that the wire I have fits well, at least before tinning.

FAQ: AWG chart and the metric system | Eland Cables

Answering the frequently asked question: what is the conversion system between AWG and metric. American Wire Gauge chart compared to cable sizes in mm2. Diameters in inches and mm and also the cross sectional area.

www.elandcables.com

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/NG_CD_1674742_P-657678.pdf

https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1123343&DocType=Customer+Drawing&DocLang=Japanese

 

[FalconFour]

FWIW, all the Bundles I've made so far are using bntechgo (mm that's a mouthful of gibberish) 22awg silicone-insulated wire from Amazon. Really tiny strands. The silicone insulation makes it really easy to strip precisely, zero chance of breaking strands. In bulk, I will hold a group of 3-4 wires tightly at the end, then use flush-cutters lightly to pull-off the tips at the desired strip point. Super reliable that way. With 20 strips/crimps per Bundle (9 sockets + 11 pins), and just crossing 100 Bundles built, I've done 2,000 crimps with this stuff. All 100% cut, stripped, crimped with hand-tools.

As for tinning, I think we're really getting into splitting-hairs territory there. If you blob solder onto a wire then crimp it, yeah, you might want to retouch it after crimping. Merely "tinned" wires are a molecular-level coating meant to inhibit corrosion. It's fine. It's not applicable to the discussions of "what if the solder melts".

I will say I've always preferred a soldered connection over a crimped one, but after seeing how good a proper crimp can work and look, hmm. Getting the right tools for the crimp is the biggest challenge...

 

[Leodino]

I my memory with 1537264-00-B I don't have this alert.
It works perfectly with FalconFour's kit on my GEN3 model 3.

Thanks a lot. I am looking for this ECU so far things can not move next.

 

[DMC5180]

A little bundle of wires arrived today. Thank you. @FalconFour Can you please repost the link to the procedure for putting the car into “service mode” and allows you to reinstall current software?

 

[FalconFour]

A little bundle of wires arrived today. Thank you. @FalconFour Can you please repost the link to the procedure for putting the car into “service mode” and allows you to reinstall current software?

Well, this isn't a chatroom See the first page. Service Mode is still something that should be used as sparingly as possible, as Tesla may decide to go "change the locks" again if it's too widely used. If you see a routine update on the horizon, you should probably use that.

Still hope to see how it goes, and thanks!

 

[Westsail]

So is there a downside to this? Will the Chademo adapter still work as before? Unfortunately where I live (on an island) we don’t have a supercharger. The only DCFC option we have is a ccs/chademo combo. Sometimes one or the other is broken, actually a lot of times. So being able to use either would be truly game changing. I have a 2018 LR and have obtained the other 2 parts just need the ECU.

 

[RayK]

So is there a downside to this? Will the Chademo adapter still work as before?

Straight from the bird's mouth (Yes, it will):

Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

Well, isn't your car still under warranty? Why not wait for the real retrofit like the EU had? If they find anything wrong with any items during the retrofit, it would be taken care of under warranty? Maybe some items will need to be replaced regardless, but maybe Tesla will just charge a flat...

teslamotorsclub.com

Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

Well, preliminary analysis was quick: it's the same bloody thing (identical in wiring to my Gen3 orange/encased/Yazaki? charge port). Just in yet another vastly different package that bears precisely zero similarities to my charge port in appearances. Tried to make the most info visible...

teslamotorsclub.com

Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

@falcon Are the yellow wires in the correct position in your photo? Pinout appears to show Pin 3 empty and Pin 4 connected, but photo looks like Pin 3&5 connected vs 4&5. One side (Gen3 port side) takes pins 21 & 22 as TEMP-IN-1 and TEMP-IN-2. The other side (Gen4 ECU side) puts them on pins...

teslamotorsclub.com

I'm probably going to keep my CHAdeMO adapter even after doing the ECU swap. Already paid for and gives me additional sources for charging in case CCS side is down.

 

[ambudriver03]

So is there a downside to this? Will the Chademo adapter still work as before? Unfortunately where I live (on an island) we don’t have a supercharger. The only DCFC option we have is a ccs/chademo combo. Sometimes one or the other is broken, actually a lot of times. So being able to use either would be truly game changing. I have a 2018 LR and have obtained the other 2 parts just need the ECU.

Yep. CHADEMO adapter still works post retrofit.

Straight from the bird's mouth (Yes, it will):

Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

Well, isn't your car still under warranty? Why not wait for the real retrofit like the EU had? If they find anything wrong with any items during the retrofit, it would be taken care of under warranty? Maybe some items will need to be replaced regardless, but maybe Tesla will just charge a flat...

teslamotorsclub.com

Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

Well, preliminary analysis was quick: it's the same bloody thing (identical in wiring to my Gen3 orange/encased/Yazaki? charge port). Just in yet another vastly different package that bears precisely zero similarities to my charge port in appearances. Tried to make the most info visible...

teslamotorsclub.com

Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

@falcon Are the yellow wires in the correct position in your photo? Pinout appears to show Pin 3 empty and Pin 4 connected, but photo looks like Pin 3&5 connected vs 4&5. One side (Gen3 port side) takes pins 21 & 22 as TEMP-IN-1 and TEMP-IN-2. The other side (Gen4 ECU side) puts them on pins...

teslamotorsclub.com

I'm probably going to keep my CHAdeMO adapter even after doing the ECU swap. Already paid for and gives me additional sources for charging in case CCS side is down.

Same. I paid $450 for it in June of 2020.

I've probably only used it about 15 times, but the times that I did, was because I was on a road trip, and didn't have another viable option.

 

[ager01]

For those who have used the "Service Mode - Software Reinstall" route to update to the proper firmware after the ECU swap does the Software have to be downloaded again through WiFi or is it already stored for reinstall?

it looks like the image is stored on the drive somewhere and then gets uncompressed for installation. it took my car about 3-4 minutes to display the icon after i requested software reinstall: no way it got downloaded that fast

 

[CubedRoot]

For those interested in trying to get Tesla involved, you could try opening a service request and specify correction code 440151060.15 (Combo Adapter - Charge Port (Retrofit)): https://service.tesla.com/docs/Mode...UID-49B8570D-6658-40F7-980F-F78C40BA706E.html

It seems that the only thing that needs to be done besides swapping the ECU out is changing a parameter:



Note: The instructions don't list what part number to use...

This is quite interesting. I wonder if that means an "official" retrofit is close to coming to the US?

 

[DMC5180]

Well, this isn't a chatroom See the first page. Service Mode is still something that should be used as sparingly as possible, as Tesla may decide to go "change the locks" again if it's too widely used. If you see a routine update on the horizon, you should probably use that.

Still hope to see how it goes, and thanks!

I went to my local SC today. Walked up to the parts counter, asked to order the magic P/N. (No questions asked) “we have it in stock” I walked out the door with new ECU in hand. I suppose, I could have put the car into service mode then, but my wife was with me. I didn’t want to experiment and have something go wrong with her in the car. She doesn’t know what I’m doing to the car, only that I needed to go to the service center to order/pickup a part.