I am curious that did the counter staff ask you the VIN to verify your ownership and accept your order?I went to my local SC today. Walked up to the parts counter, asked to order the magic P/N. (No questions asked) “we have it in stock” I walked out the door with new ECU in hand. I suppose, I could have put the car into service mode then, but my wife was with me. I didn’t want to experiment and have something go wrong with her in the car. She doesn’t know what I’m doing to the car, only that I needed to go to the service center to order/pickup a part.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach
- Thread starter FalconFour
- Start date
- Status
JulienWA
Member
So a very nice user from here (blaftery, shout out to him!) mailed me a brand new Gen 4 ECU board but, my service appointment for my fried '80 was today and they replaced it with the correct 00 one and it fixed my "can't charge it at home" issue. The one I bought from the user here is unopened and also happened to arrive today. I am willing to just sell mine for what he sold it to me for, dm me if interested.
New here and can’t seem to figure out how to DM. Maybe I haven’t posted enough yet? We don’t have a SC on the island and I’m looking for the ECU. Can you send me a dm? Thanks!
@FalconFour , could you show me the electrical diagram of GEN3 ECU 1092755-98-B. I would like to see the difference between GEN4.
Either of you should be able to hover over the name of the other person, and click "Start conversation", as here:
Is that not an option you see?
All the info I have is posted throughout this thread (mostly the first 10 pages). In particular, this post has the diagram matching up Gen3 to Gen4 (the Bundle of Wires).
Aside from that, service info is now freely available, so you can dig in and grab the wiring diagrams you need - and then some. The ECU is spread around a few different sheets, so it's not all in one easily-screenshottable page.
DMC5180
Member
The parts person only asked for the last 6 digits of my VIN or my phone number. I gave my phone number and she looked up my Tesla account info up in the data base. No questions asked since the part is listed as OTC (No VIN required). I've also had interactions with the parts person couple times in the past few months, too. I was kind of familiar face sort of speak.
Hey thanks for the credit! I still have my module and got shutdown by Tesla today getting this done. Gave me a line about being only available in Europe, etc... My wife's Y is going in for service for a replacement window and I'm going to see if I can talk to a tech directly instead of the Service Advisor.
On a side note though does anyone have an active subscription to Toolbox in the Denver area that could try flipping this option for me? I'd rather do this the proper way and not a harness. I know its been done as other early model 3 owners have had their failed ECU replaced by Tesla with a Gen 4 and gained CCS capability.
That's simply not true. Long history (see pages and pages past here) of discovering and debugging how this all works. Tesla can't drop Gen4 ECUs into Gen3 cars, in particular because there are literally missing pins on the Gen4 ECU that land on things the Gen4 port needs (specifically: 2.7k prox pull-down).
Service has incorrectly told a few people that they got a newer gen charge port. To my knowledge there hasn't actually been a single person that rolled into Tesla Service one second with a Gen3 car, and rolled out the other with a Gen4 ECU and CCS support. At least, not in a working manner (I did, and left with a bunch of faults I had to work on resolving - thus this thread's existence).
When the official retrofit comes out, it'll be a different ECU part number so it gets different firmware, with a different stuffing of pins. It won't be the 1537264-00-B we have today.
The Bundle isn't some kind of magical switch that waves its hands and tells the ECU to "just give me CCS". It makes the Gen4 ECU work with the Gen3 port by adapting signals (see first post, "what exactly does the bundle of wires do").
edit: But you're welcome to try
Last edited:
Because of my broken deadfront pins, Tesla is going to replace my charge port via Tesla mobile service in about a week. It looks like I'll receive a 2017-2020 (Gen 3) Charge Port per my Tesla estimate: 1449495-10-E
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
@FalconFour Do you think this 'ad-hoc' instalation might affect Tesla warranty for those cars who are still under the 4-years 50k-miles warranty?That's simply not true. Long history (see pages and pages past here) of discovering and debugging how this all works. Tesla can't drop Gen4 ECUs into Gen3 cars, in particular because there are literally missing pins on the Gen4 ECU that land on things the Gen4 port needs (specifically: 2.7k prox pull-down).
Service has incorrectly told a few people that they got a newer gen charge port. To my knowledge there hasn't actually been a single person that rolled into Tesla Service one second with a Gen3 car, and rolled out the other with a Gen4 ECU and CCS support. At least, not in a working manner (I did, and left with a bunch of faults I had to work on resolving - thus this thread's existence).
When the official retrofit comes out, it'll be a different ECU part number so it gets different firmware, with a different stuffing of pins. It won't be the 1537264-00-B we have today.
The Bundle isn't some kind of magical switch that waves its hands and tells the ECU to "just give me CCS". It makes the Gen4 ECU work with the Gen3 port by adapting signals (see first post, "what exactly does the bundle of wires do").
edit: But you're welcome to try
Do you think that putting back the original Gen3 will work without getting any error messages or do you think that a new software set up while be require?
Last edited:
What's strange to me is that this was added in January to the US service manual for RETRO fit of CCS in the US model.That's simply not true. Long history (see pages and pages past here) of discovering and debugging how this all works. Tesla can't drop Gen4 ECUs into Gen3 cars, in particular because there are literally missing pins on the Gen4 ECU that land on things the Gen4 port needs (specifically: 2.7k prox pull-down).
Service has incorrectly told a few people that they got a newer gen charge port. To my knowledge there hasn't actually been a single person that rolled into Tesla Service one second with a Gen3 car, and rolled out the other with a Gen4 ECU and CCS support. At least, not in a working manner (I did, and left with a bunch of faults I had to work on resolving - thus this thread's existence).
When the official retrofit comes out, it'll be a different ECU part number so it gets different firmware, with a different stuffing of pins. It won't be the 1537264-00-B we have today.
The Bundle isn't some kind of magical switch that waves its hands and tells the ECU to "just give me CCS". It makes the Gen4 ECU work with the Gen3 port by adapting signals (see first post, "what exactly does the bundle of wires do").
edit: But you're welcome to try
I've just picked up a gen4 ECU from my local service centre. I called ahead and confirmed stock (they told me last week that they expected a shipment last Friday, I called Tuesday and they confirmed they had received it). I walked in and explained to the salesperson what I was looking for who referred me to a service rep who grabbed it from the back and was able to bill it directly to my account. They did ask for my phone number to pull my account for billing but did not confirm VIN/model or seem that concerned with giving me the part. All said, in and out in about ten minutes.
I've assembled my own wiring harness and have the Korean adapter here for my 2018 M3 LR RWD and will head back to the SC to get into service mode and install the plug later today.
My thought was that I hate and find assembling these connectors both tedious and sometimes difficult depending on how well I crimped/the fit of the connector. Would there be any interest in creating a PCB with the correct ends that someone would simply push into place and leave on the Gen4 ECU? Such a board could be mass-produced inexpensively by a company like JLCPCB (or your favourite local fab). The only problem I'm having so far is finding the right PCB connectors for the board.
I've assembled my own wiring harness and have the Korean adapter here for my 2018 M3 LR RWD and will head back to the SC to get into service mode and install the plug later today.
My thought was that I hate and find assembling these connectors both tedious and sometimes difficult depending on how well I crimped/the fit of the connector. Would there be any interest in creating a PCB with the correct ends that someone would simply push into place and leave on the Gen4 ECU? Such a board could be mass-produced inexpensively by a company like JLCPCB (or your favourite local fab). The only problem I'm having so far is finding the right PCB connectors for the board.
whoosierdaddy
FSD Supervisor
Turned away by Indianapolis service today. Claim to only be selling the part to cars with faulty ECUs due to shortage. They do have them in stock though. Told me to check back in a month and see if shortage is better.
1) Warranty isn't a blanket statement; it's literally illegal for Tesla to pull a warranty out from the whole car for changes made to one system. So, they have grounds to say that your charge port is no longer covered by warranty, but they don't have grounds to, say, not cover suspension or drive train issues because you changed your charge port ECU.
(full disclosure: I'm well outside of the 4yr/50k-mi warranty myself, now at 86k miles... so I've been doing all this completely without regard for warranty. It's all "on me" at this point! Still, it's near-zero chance of itself causing damage, but the chance of Tesla declining a warranty repair of an actually-warranty-needed fault is a good concern...)
2) We already know that going back to the Gen3 ECU is possible, but it's even-less "happy" than the initial Gen4 swap. Going from one flashed ECU to another (even in the same car) causes it to shut-down the HV power to the car, making it non-drivable until you run the reflash/update. So yeah, you can, but it definitely requires an update/reflash to get driving again. Can be done "on the side of the road" in dire circumstances if needed, because reflash doesn't require a re-download.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
