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Right rear suspension noise-- any diagnosis before it gets taken in?

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by stevejust, Aug 10, 2015.

  1. stevejust

    stevejust Pati ≡nc ≡

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    Clank clank clank.

    Anyone ever dealt with this before? Sounds a little like the wheel bearing issue my friend's CTS-V got recalled for. But I think it's something broken and flapping around back there. Only happens when turning right, comes from the left rear wheel area. I just read the post about the tie rods...

    Noise for TMC diaganosis - YouTube
     
  2. hcsharp

    hcsharp Active Member

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    My toe link did not sound like that. The easiest way to know if it's a tie rod or toe link is on the highway you will not have normal control of the car. It will dart slightly to one side or the other when going straight.

    The first thing I would check is your lug bolts.
     
  3. stevejust

    stevejust Pati ≡nc ≡

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    Checked the lugs already. No play.
     
  4. Mark77a

    Mark77a Member

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    a CV joint ?
     
  5. stevejust

    stevejust Pati ≡nc ≡

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    #5 stevejust, Aug 31, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
    Good news, just a loose tie rod. No big deal and all fixed for <$150 at Tesla.

    How do you guys jack your Roadsters? I had a bottle jack and a 2 1/4 ton floor jack. Both were too tall for the Roadster.
     
  6. thefortunes

    thefortunes Member

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    2.5 Ton Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with RapidPump®
     
  7. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    "Loose" as in worn out or "Loose" as in the tie rod lock nut worked itself loose and then the tie rod?

    Either way that's a dangerous situation where you'll lose control of the car when that part goes. Glad its fixed.
     
  8. stevejust

    stevejust Pati ≡nc ≡

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    Sorry for the typo. Loose as in the nut was no longer torqued to the manufacturer specifications.
     
  9. hcsharp

    hcsharp Active Member

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    Glad you clarified it was just a loose nut because the parts alone for just one side are more than $150. Loose nuts were also a common problem on the Elise suspension because many of them are galvanized. The galvanizing would compress after the nut was originally torqued to spec, causing it to come loose.

    I have a racing jack very similar to the one thefortunes linked to. You need to know that the rubber pad is not thick enough on these racing jacks. You need to get a thicker pad or a second pad to put on top of the one that's already there. Otherwise you risk putting very small dents in the aluminum on the underside of your car.
     
  10. smorgasbord

    smorgasbord Active Member

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    Hockey pucks work well and are readily available.

    I also have a similar jack. Do NOT trust it to hold up the car if you're under it. Use a jack stand - which is easier said than done since there aren't redundant locations for jacking.
     
  11. delavandaag

    delavandaag Member

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    I use a GoodYear jack (Goodyear Jack from Conrad.com). It does not come with a pad, but I use a piece of wood and a small piece of cloth on top of that to protect the bottom of the car. Quite a cheap solution that works very well.
     

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