Aloha, Gang!
I, too, would love it if Tesla took a similar approach to Apple on self-repair of our vehicles. That said, until that happens, there are resources out there available to assist with our repair projects.
Some background first: I have a 2012 MS Signature. It’s in great shape, with 137k miles on it. Naturally, things have begun to give up the ghost. Many of these things we put up with for a while, until the PTC heater and the driver’s LCD screen went. In addition, driver’s side rear door handle. No longer presented, and the charge port door solenoid no longer worked (sophisticated tool was required to be onboard - a spoon).
Quote from Tesla for all of this stuff: more than $8000. Spent on self-repair parts: slightly more than about 1/10th of that amount, and the work is done. Mind you, it was a learning experience!
Note: this is no reason to avoid doing your own repairs. But, OBSERVE this safety precaution: disconnect the 12v battery and disconnect the Fireman’s Loop before doing ANYTHING electrically-related on your Tess. Peace of mind, safety is at stake. So, just do it. The Fireman’s Loop takes the high voltage components out of service. The 12v system disabled take out the control systems. So, you temporarily brick the car when you take these two precautions.
So, here are the resources (other than the Great YouTube videos on the subjects) I used for my MS:
Door Handle: eBay, Autobahn. $150; time commitment, 4-5 hours; Note: don’t forget to remove the matching color plate from the old door handle (it shows when the handle extends) and put on the replacement. BTW, there are kits available to replace the micro switch in the handle assembly, if you wish to go that route.
Driver’s instrument cluster screen:
Chad Reel at Reel Deal EV
https://www.reeldealev.com
Email: [email protected]
Chad was a great help. He stocks both screens, newly made and NOT liquid-enhanced (so they can’t leak). For the Gen 1 MS, about $350 for the drivers instrument screen, cheaper for the makeover version MS screens. Labor: about 4 hours. Note: the connector to the screen is hard to figure out how to disconnect. It has has a locking lever that releases by flipping it in an arc to the right.
12-volt battery: got an Ohmmu. The old battery just gave it up during the repairs, after a gif five-year or more run. The lead-acid battery is a bear to get out. The Ohmmu, easy to get in. Weighs a LOT less and it works just fine! Expensive Lithium ion alternative: about $450 with tax and shipping.
PTC heater core: rumor has it that a Generation 2 core will work in a Gen 1 vehicle, but I haven’t tested that effectively. I replaced my early -C version with a -H, and it worked without a hitch. I bought a spare Gen 2 core as a backup, a hedge, against the one I installed failing in the future, both on eBay. Cost of the installed unit: $180. Time commitment, 5-6 hours. Nothing really tricky about this. Note: if you do decide to go with a Gen 2 to replace a Gen 1, you’ll have to place your Gen. 1 cable on you Gen 2 core. Not a big deal.
DC-DC converter fuse replacement: this was the trickiest of the lot, for me. Not replacing the fuses. They’re not hard to do. Take care to do it, as with everything in this unit.
Testing for the blown fuse is easy and straightforward. MUCH care should be exercised in opening the well-sealed back cover. I used a retractable-blade carpet knife. Just be careful around the plug connectors, there are tiny wires that can easily be cut. It’s not a horrible job. Just be careful not to extend the blade too deeply.
Here’s a great resource if you want to have the service professionally done at a reasonable price: Matt Edwards at Hybrid ReVolt, Phoenix AZ:
HybridReVolt: Hybrid Battery Repair. Matt will check out and service the DcDc Converter and send it back to you for about $300 or do bucks. If you’re in Phoenix, drop in.
Notes: the ‘Signal’ plug is a pain to release. The white, lock-pin slider breaks easily. Tha said just take your time. The other Olga aren’t hard. They slide toward the front of the car, but travel maybe 1/4”. Not far. Then grip and wiggle the plugs off.
Golf tees work to plug off the coolant lines. Mark the ‘in’ line with tape or paint so you don’t confuse the two on reinstallation. I used tubing caps to plug the inlet/outlet flared tubing on the Converter.
Charge Port: this unit failed on my car years ago. The solenoid that releases the door stops working due to corrosion from moisture invading it (rain, garden hose car washing).
I bought a used one from Henry at EV Parts Solutions, also in Phoenix AZ, for $200. (602) 456-1782.
Henry and his team are smart, affable and knowledgeable. They know Teslas, parts are tested and they’ll provide tips for safe installation.
The last big job in my car is the fluffing sun roof! That’ll be work. My guess is that is leaf debis jamming the carriage. Not a job I look forward to doing!
That’s it for the moment. I hope this helps/encourages you to consider your own repairs!
Cheers,
Kelly O’Brien
Aka ‘Amanita’
