Commodore
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Serial number 961 is here: https://www.copart.com/lot/24611289
This car has all the damaged parts removed, which is the way to buy!!!
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RIP #994
- Thread starter NomoC8
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- Marketplace Roadster
Serial number 961 is here: https://www.copart.com/lot/24611289
This car has all the damaged parts removed, which is the way to buy!!!
Yes but 994 has the parts to put it back together. Either way they will never sell. 20k for a car. 20k to fix it and 30k for a new battery, $70k for a salvaged title roadster. Until they start selling for a realistic price they will be on auction sites for years. I am hankering after the Fisker now so I’m pushing to get my other project done to do this one
I priced out cells once before and rapidly approached 22,000. And that deliberately staying away from anything above 3200mah as they show the fastest degrading rates. I was hoping to pull the pack and rework it. Thankfully no longer required. That car was to distracting, but it did make me clear space in my garage just in case.
I am now the proud owner of 961(I think)
And plan to bring it back to life!
Found this forum through searching the vin on google. If the vin was entered correctly, 994 appears to be back on eBay and I’m currently the high bidder.
2010 Tesla Roadster Sport | eBay
2010 Tesla Roadster Sport | eBay
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Good luck, I hope you can resurrect it. It’s one I had my eye on but the time it’s say now I’m a hard pass.
Not sure how smart showing your highest bid is on a public forum
Not sure how smart showing your highest bid is on a public forum
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Actually if you click the link you will see his max bid.
Its irrelevant anyways because the car will bid way over his max amount shown.
This is a different seller than capitolonemotors. I think it’s making its way slowly to me. The seller will not allow any questions so I assume they tried to charge it, failed and are moving on.
Just shy of 13k which is what I would offered for the car originally! Not to bad if the new owner is lucky enough to resurrect the battery.
#994 arrived this morning to my shop. It's going to need lot's of love, but the PEM is in beautiful shape, though it's not powering up. The main battery has to be bricked due to age, and the Aux battery is currently disconnected. First order of business is to take a deep dive into the suspension in the front driver's corner. I believe this is the reason Tesla totaled the car, and it will determine if the car becomes a parts car or a resurrection. Given this car has been in the hands of two private individuals who elected to sell vs. restore, I am not hopeful. However, I have some really amazing help in my area who are ready to dig in. I will rely on there expertise regarding possible frame damage (which at this point has not been confirmed). Sourcing body parts is my number one biggest concern. The entire front trunk and mounting hardware is missing, and there are broken wires up front that go to unknown locations. Honestly though, I have seen worse. We have brought back worse cars than #994. Just going to needs lot's of luck and probably lots of help from people on this forum. I adore roadsters, so if there is a way, I will try to bring it back to life.
@petergrub - any front end spares in your stockpile that would be good for @RebelRoadster's project?
Thanks @Roadster, greatly appreciated! Good news is, looks like there is NO structural damage at all. Somewhere along the way, the A-Arm and tie rod have been replaced (A-Arm looks newer on the damaged side than the passenger side) with no visible cracks anywhere in the aluminum frame. We will be scoping it at a later date (just to be sure), but so far, the mechanicals look excellent. Bad news is, the ESS disconnect was never pulled, so the battery looks to be flat. All fuses are testing good so far though, so I will get a 12V battery connected and start troubleshooting. Hopefully I can get the computer to boot.
I think the ESS was the reason for the resale. I think the other owners thought they could just plug it in and it would charge. Which meant you scooped it for a great price and could either bypass the bmb’s And see if it will recharge or put yourself down for a replacement. 20-30k is the going rate so I would concentrate on the car before the battery. If you can get it together I’m sure you can either swap a pack from Gruber or try and play with what you have.
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