I would have escalated the repair coverage and gone to a state authority if necessary. They should cover that and redesign the part. It looks like it should have been a solid piece like the Model S.
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Ripped Undercarriage Composite from the rain?
- Thread starter SnickySnacks
- Start date
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- service bulletin
Agreed. Just because California rarely has rain doesn’t mean the car shouldn’t be able to handle heavy rain. Sometimes puddles are unavoidable and the material on the car failed. Should be under warranty.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Interesting. Two I agree that there is a bolt hole without a bolt. However, based on the pictures I have here:
Found out what’s causing undercarriage composite to break apart
(page 4 of the above thread posted by @TEG )
It doesn't look like you are actually missing a bolt. As far as I can tell from your pictures, the place where there is a missing bolt, there is no corresponding hole in the undercarriage composite. There should be a total of 6 bolts on the front edge of the rear composite. To me it looks like you still have them all (please correct if I'm wrong). Perhaps the original design of this undercover had a lot more attachment points (which perhaps it needs?).
So, my feeling (expressed in the other thread) was that this cover couldn't sustain damage if it's properly attached and not hit by something. So, I'm either wrong about that, or something hit your cover and ripped it back somehow. Perhaps if sufficient water gets in the small gap (even on a properly attached cover), it can rip it free?
It's really hard for me to say without knowing exactly what the water circumstances were. Personally, I'm not that worried about it (once I get my two missing bolts added), but I'm also in Southern California and huge puddles are generally more rare.
I guess another possibility is that some covers are more "warped" from the factory and have bigger gaps (between sheet metal and cover) between bolt attachment points than others. I have pictures of mine before any damage, and I don't see any major issues, but maybe there was some issue which made the three reported undercover failures more prone to failure.
If the two others here reporting problems could post pictures of the specific damage if it hasn't already been fixed (@Kentrock1 , @_ACX ) (or confirm it is identical in location to @dbemis damage location), that would be helpful to see if it's some sort of systematic design issue.
Found out what’s causing undercarriage composite to break apart
(page 4 of the above thread posted by @TEG )
It doesn't look like you are actually missing a bolt. As far as I can tell from your pictures, the place where there is a missing bolt, there is no corresponding hole in the undercarriage composite. There should be a total of 6 bolts on the front edge of the rear composite. To me it looks like you still have them all (please correct if I'm wrong). Perhaps the original design of this undercover had a lot more attachment points (which perhaps it needs?).
So, my feeling (expressed in the other thread) was that this cover couldn't sustain damage if it's properly attached and not hit by something. So, I'm either wrong about that, or something hit your cover and ripped it back somehow. Perhaps if sufficient water gets in the small gap (even on a properly attached cover), it can rip it free?
It's really hard for me to say without knowing exactly what the water circumstances were. Personally, I'm not that worried about it (once I get my two missing bolts added), but I'm also in Southern California and huge puddles are generally more rare.
I guess another possibility is that some covers are more "warped" from the factory and have bigger gaps (between sheet metal and cover) between bolt attachment points than others. I have pictures of mine before any damage, and I don't see any major issues, but maybe there was some issue which made the three reported undercover failures more prone to failure.
If the two others here reporting problems could post pictures of the specific damage if it hasn't already been fixed (@Kentrock1 , @_ACX ) (or confirm it is identical in location to @dbemis damage location), that would be helpful to see if it's some sort of systematic design issue.
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Hmm. Well, to be fair to Tesla, other manufacturers use this stuff too. My Volvo had a similar cover, which I replaced with an aftermarket aluminum plate. It's not ideal. Given the cost and margin sensitivity given to developing the 3, I'd guess this design will continue. Perhaps an aftermarket solution will surface in the future.
Kentrock1
Member
The part is called an “aero shield”. I believe its primary purpose is just for aerodynamics like the name suggests. I had the same issue (mentioned in the other thread), drove through a deep puddle at relatively high speed and the shield ripped immediately. This is the part number:
MID AERO, LWRT (1104313-00-A)
Tesla charged me $150 plus labor for a new one. In hindsight I should have just used some heavy duty tape to reattach the ripped piece.
MID AERO, LWRT (1104313-00-A)
Tesla charged me $150 plus labor for a new one. In hindsight I should have just used some heavy duty tape to reattach the ripped piece.
Owners should not have to purchase a third party product to prevent a cover under the car from being damaged by water/rain. If it covers anything important (drive unit?) then it should be something that doesn’t tear apparently somewhat easily.
dbemis
Member
Just talked to Tesla Service, should be hearing from the Rangers in a day or two to schedule an appointment.
In my case, it was raining a decent amount, but nothing out of the ordinary. Like usual, some puddles formed at the edge of the road near the curb. I didn't think until the next day to pull video off the dash cam to show the conditions, but sadly it had already all been overwritten
Once it is repaired, I'm likely going to either use more gorilla tape, or possibly first put some flex caulk at the exposed, leading edge, then cover it with tape. I don't see how this wouldn't continually happen, there are some large gaps between the bolts holding it on.
In the meantime, I plan on getting back under and seeing how much flex/give the unaffected areas have, mostly just due to curiosity.
In my case, it was raining a decent amount, but nothing out of the ordinary. Like usual, some puddles formed at the edge of the road near the curb. I didn't think until the next day to pull video off the dash cam to show the conditions, but sadly it had already all been overwritten
Once it is repaired, I'm likely going to either use more gorilla tape, or possibly first put some flex caulk at the exposed, leading edge, then cover it with tape. I don't see how this wouldn't continually happen, there are some large gaps between the bolts holding it on.
In the meantime, I plan on getting back under and seeing how much flex/give the unaffected areas have, mostly just due to curiosity.
Thanks! I appreciate the info and more pics
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
I think I would just put some spray foam insulation in there and tape it back into place until the foam cures. Then if it drops again you will have a pre-formed mold behind it and you can just cut it off, especially if they are charging $150 for a fix...
At that price, I would make my own UHMW skid plate.
How to make a plastic (UHMW) skid plate
Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE, UHMW) is a subset of the thermoplastic polyethylene. Also known as high-modulus polyethylene, (HMPE), or high-performance polyethylene (HPPE), it has extremely long chains, with a molecular mass usually between 3.5 and 7.5 million. The longer chain serves to transfer load more effectively to the polymer backbone by strengthening intermolecular interactions. This results in a very tough material, with the highest impact strength of any thermoplastic presently made. UHMWPE is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic. It is highly resistant to corrosive chemicals except oxidizing acids; has extremely low moisture absorption and a very low coefficient of friction; is self-lubricating (see boundary lubrication); and is highly resistant to abrasion, in some forms being 15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel. Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon), but UHMWPE has better abrasion resistance than PTFE.
At that price, I would make my own UHMW skid plate.
How to make a plastic (UHMW) skid plate
Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE, UHMW) is a subset of the thermoplastic polyethylene. Also known as high-modulus polyethylene, (HMPE), or high-performance polyethylene (HPPE), it has extremely long chains, with a molecular mass usually between 3.5 and 7.5 million. The longer chain serves to transfer load more effectively to the polymer backbone by strengthening intermolecular interactions. This results in a very tough material, with the highest impact strength of any thermoplastic presently made. UHMWPE is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic. It is highly resistant to corrosive chemicals except oxidizing acids; has extremely low moisture absorption and a very low coefficient of friction; is self-lubricating (see boundary lubrication); and is highly resistant to abrasion, in some forms being 15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel. Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon), but UHMWPE has better abrasion resistance than PTFE.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Hmm. Really seems like simply driving through a puddle is sufficient to rip it. From what I am seeing here, at least, this can occur without any missing bolts. Seems like maybe everyone should do preventative covering of the gap along the whole front edge, with gorilla tape (cleaning thoroughly before application to make sure it lasts)!
Is there something about this particular section of the cover (always seems to be the same spot?) that makes it more vulnerable to water intrusion...? Bigger gap I assume...
HeatproofGenie
Member
I was thinking of doing the same prophylactic taping on my car as I was reading through this thread. Definitely seems like it is just a poorly designed part, or being kind, a part only designed for dry urban driving.
Guess I need to get my ramps out so I can get a look under the car more easily.
We should be covered for the next 4 years so let this piece break over and over again until they redesign it and give those cars in the wet climate the new redesign. Or they will keep replacing it for free till warranty runs out.
I’d go out and drive in wet puddles and hopes it breaks just to see a ranger out on a new piece every two weeks until the issue is addressed.
I’d go out and drive in wet puddles and hopes it breaks just to see a ranger out on a new piece every two weeks until the issue is addressed.
Michel3
Love those Aero's
Agree, but I'd rather buy an aftermarket solution than to stick with a half baked piece of flimsy material.
Do you think the lining used was because it could dissipate the battery heat better?
Check out this thread!
Found out what’s causing undercarriage composite to break apart
I emailed this link to my Tesla SC with this message:
As a stockholder and Model 3 owner, I believe this apparent design flaw is a real potential problem that needs to be addressed by Tesla ASAP.
Can you forward this link to wherever you think it should go.
Thanks,
I got this response:
Thanks for the info….Very interesting videos on there!
I forwarded it along to try and get it to the appropriate party.
Found out what’s causing undercarriage composite to break apart
I emailed this link to my Tesla SC with this message:
As a stockholder and Model 3 owner, I believe this apparent design flaw is a real potential problem that needs to be addressed by Tesla ASAP.
Can you forward this link to wherever you think it should go.
Thanks,
I got this response:
Thanks for the info….Very interesting videos on there!
I forwarded it along to try and get it to the appropriate party.
Michel3
Love those Aero's
Is it an idea to put an aluminium strip with corresponding bolt holes over the flimsy stuff, to hold it tight and in place?
Seems to me a simple DIY solution. I would certainly not pay $ 150 for a non-solution of a faulty construction.
Seems to me a simple DIY solution. I would certainly not pay $ 150 for a non-solution of a faulty construction.
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