Road trip with the Thule Cargo Hitch Box (Transporter Combi)

[Fencemaker]

I love your setup and have been toying with getting a hitch-mounted cargo box for my 3. Out of curiosity: what did you use to shorten the shank (I think you called it the stinger) that goes into the hitch receiver? I thought those were made of hardened steel?

 

[limmerguy]

I love your setup and have been toying with getting a hitch-mounted cargo box for my 3. Out of curiosity: what did you use to shorten the shank (I think you called it the stinger) that goes into the hitch receiver? I thought those were made of hardened steel?

I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. Then painstakingly tapped (by hand!) a 1/2” screw hole for the anti-rattle bolt!

 

[KenC]

Hi All, I wanted to document a recent 2,200 mile road trip with my Thule hitch-mounted cargo box for anyone who is interested.

Notes:

• 2018 Tesla Model 3 Long Range RWD with 18" Aero wheels. 5.8% battery degredation. Roughly 70 kWh usable at 100% SoC.
• Stealth Hitches hitch with trailer package + Thule Transporter Combi Hitch Box. I shortened the hitch stinger by 8" to improve aerodynamics and how it looks.
• Energy consumption for 2,200 miles was great at 259 Wh/mi. I was constantly surprised by the efficiency numbers. I was significantly over the speed limit most of the time and drafting 3-4 car lengths whenever possible. Temperatures were mid-40s on the coldest nights and low 80s for the highs.
• No problems fitting into any supercharger stalls or parking spaces. I added a wireless FPV camera to the box so I could see behind me.
• Autopilot still works with the rear parking sensors blocked. I used AP for ~80% of the miles.
• Got overnight Level-2 charges in 5 places we visited--Los Angeles, Death Valley, Las Vegas, Zion, Grand Canyon South Rim.
• The cargo box clears high curbs, but the Stealth hitch does not. Ground clearance isn't good with the Model 3 and gets worse with the hitch attached. The hitch bottomed-out two times on steep driveways. Take dips, bumps, and transitions to steep inclines at an angle.
• The hitch box is easier to access than a roof box. Both the trunk and hitch box can be opened and accessed at the same time.
• Car camped only one night in Death Valley. I'm a fan, but lady friend is not.
• Overall, I like it a lot. I can say definitively that a hitch box is much better than a roof box in terms of accessibility, efficiency, and wind noise. The only benefit of a roof box is it doesn't block the rearview camera when reversing. I've been on two road trips with my Thule roof box and the impact to efficiency is severe.

Thanks! Feel free to ask any questions.

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Some more questions: when you say you had no problems fitting into SC stalls, I noticed in your pic of a supercharger stall, that there was no post behind you. Most of the SC stalls I've been to, have a signpost or concrete posts behind you. Can you still back in far enough and reach a charging cable?

Before you shortened your drawbar, did you test it?

In an earlier answer, you mentioned car-lengths, when you say 5 car-lengths, do you mean you set the follow distance to 5? Just checking.

 

[limmerguy]

Some more questions: when you say you had no problems fitting into SC stalls, I noticed in your pic of a supercharger stall, that there was no post behind you. Most of the SC stalls I've been to, have a signpost or concrete posts behind you. Can you still back in far enough and reach a charging cable?

Before you shortened your drawbar, did you test it?

In an earlier answer, you mentioned car-lengths, when you say 5 car-lengths, do you mean you set the follow distance to 5? Just checking

I don’t recall if I tried any superchargers before shortening the hitch shank. But with the shortened bar, I had no problem with any superchargers including ones with a pole or concrete pillar in the middle. I would suspect that you could fit anywhere even with the original length. One thought is you’ll probably want a human spotter when reversing into a charger if you don’t have an extra camera in the back.

And yes, when I said “5 car lengths”, I meant 5 whatever-lengths on the AP setting.

 

[David Martinez]

Hi All, I wanted to document a recent 2,200 mile road trip with my Thule hitch-mounted cargo box for anyone who is interested.

Notes:

• 2018 Tesla Model 3 Long Range RWD with 18" Aero wheels. 5.8% battery degredation. Roughly 70 kWh usable at 100% SoC.
• Stealth Hitches hitch with trailer package + Thule Transporter Combi Hitch Box. I shortened the hitch stinger by 8" to improve aerodynamics and how it looks.
• Energy consumption for 2,200 miles was great at 259 Wh/mi. I was constantly surprised by the efficiency numbers. I was significantly over the speed limit most of the time and drafting 3-4 car lengths whenever possible. Temperatures were mid-40s on the coldest nights and low 80s for the highs.
• No problems fitting into any supercharger stalls or parking spaces. I added a wireless FPV camera to the box so I could see behind me.
• Autopilot still works with the rear parking sensors blocked. I used AP for ~80% of the miles.
• Got overnight Level-2 charges in 5 places we visited--Los Angeles, Death Valley, Las Vegas, Zion, Grand Canyon South Rim.
• The cargo box clears high curbs, but the Stealth hitch does not. Ground clearance isn't good with the Model 3 and gets worse with the hitch attached. The hitch bottomed-out two times on steep driveways. Take dips, bumps, and transitions to steep inclines at an angle.
• The hitch box is easier to access than a roof box. Both the trunk and hitch box can be opened and accessed at the same time.
• Car camped only one night in Death Valley. I'm a fan, but lady friend is not.
• Overall, I like it a lot. I can say definitively that a hitch box is much better than a roof box in terms of accessibility, efficiency, and wind noise. The only benefit of a roof box is it doesn't block the rearview camera when reversing. I've been on two road trips with my Thule roof box and the impact to efficiency is severe.

Thanks! Feel free to ask any questions.

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Did you ever get any problems with AP not being available after newer updates? I just got the Thule Transporter and my M3LR refuses to let me use AP or cruise while the box is installed.

 

[limmerguy]

Did you ever get any problems with AP not being available after newer updates? I just got the Thule Transporter and my M3LR refuses to let me use AP or cruise while the box is installed.

My AP and FSD have never been disabled with any update when using a hitch cargo box. I have been on the FSD beta for the last few months, so I’m not sure if the non-beta is any different.

I am currently on a 5,000 mile road trip with the box installed and both AP and FSD are working fine. I got an FSD beta update a couple days ago, too.

PS: averaging 253 Wh/mi at fast highway speeds.

 

[David Martinez]

My AP and FSD have never been disabled with any update when using a hitch cargo box. I have been on the FSD beta for the last few months, so I’m not sure if the non-beta is any different.

I am currently on a 5,000 mile road trip with the box installed and both AP and FSD are working fine. I got an FSD beta update a couple days ago, too.

PS: averaging 253 Wh/mi at fast highway speeds.

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I have used bike racks and cargo baskets without issue. But the the car refuses to allow AP when the Transporter is attached. I have ordered a raised hitch extension to see if it clears the parking sensors and the error goes away.

 

[limmerguy]

I have used bike racks and cargo baskets without issue. But the the car refuses to allow AP when the Transporter is attached. I have ordered a raised hitch extension to see if it clears the parking sensors and the error goes away.

Do you have a factory hitch and wiring harness by any chance? It may think the wiring harness is connected to a trailer and because of that disabled AP. I have everything aftermarket, so it isn’t an issue for me.

 

[David Martinez]

Do you have a factory hitch and wiring harness by any chance? It may think the wiring harness is connected to a trailer and because of that disabled AP. I have everything aftermarket, so it isn’t an issue for me.

Everything is aftermarket. I’ll try again in different way and toggle a few AP setting on and off to see if I have a setting out of place.

 

[David Martinez]

Do you have a factory hitch and wiring harness by any chance? It may think the wiring harness is connected to a trailer and because of that disabled AP. I have everything aftermarket, so it isn’t an issue for me.

I feel so stupid right now. The problem was that I was securing the wiring coming out of the trunk right on top of one of the parking sensors. The moment I moved the cable to the middle of the bumper everything started working.

 

[gdwenger]

I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. Then painstakingly tapped (by hand!) a 1/2” screw hole for the anti-rattle bolt!

Any chance on getting a picture of the mod? I’m visualizing that you’re only now able to use a 2” receiver with the shorter shank

 

[limmerguy]

Any chance on getting a picture of the mod? I’m visualizing that you’re only now able to use a 2” receiver with the shorter shank

Correct, I can no longer use the Thule Transporter Combi box on a 1.25" hitch--only 2" hitch receivers unless I purchase or weld my own adapter.

Pictures attached. To cut the shank, I basically measured the clearance I wanted from the trunk + an inch or so and then used an angle grinder with a cutoff blade to lop off the appropriate amount.
Tapping the steel was a pain, but I do appreciate how secure the box is with it.

I completed my recent 5,550 mile road trip with an average efficiency of 261 Wh/mi. I've noticed a LOT of strong tail AND headwinds this year which make range estimation tricky. I used to be comfortable cutting it close to <5% from Supercharger to Supercharger, but I'll probably avoid doing that if the strong winds become the new norm. I was able to charge like normal at all superchargers. Backing up without a camera is fine once you get used to using mirrors and turning your head around all over again .

I also have a super light Harbor Freight ATV hitch cargo rack that sells for $60~ new (last pic). Throw on some appropriately-sized footlockers and the efficiency is pretty much the same as stock. No trailer lights needed if your footlockers don't block the taillights.

 

[pnwadventures]

Correct, I can no longer use the Thule Transporter Combi box on a 1.25" hitch--only 2" hitch receivers unless I purchase or weld my own adapter.

Pictures attached. To cut the shank, I basically measured the clearance I wanted from the trunk + an inch or so and then used an angle grinder with a cutoff blade to lop off the appropriate amount.
Tapping the steel was a pain, but I do appreciate how secure the box is with it.

I completed my recent 5,550 mile road trip with an average efficiency of 261 Wh/mi. I've noticed a LOT of strong tail AND headwinds this year which make range estimation tricky. I used to be comfortable cutting it close to <5% from Supercharger to Supercharger, but I'll probably avoid doing that if the strong winds become the new norm. I was able to charge like normal at all superchargers. Backing up without a camera is fine once you get used to using mirrors and turning your head around all over again .

I also have a super light Harbor Freight ATV hitch cargo rack that sells for $60~ new (last pic). Throw on some appropriately-sized footlockers and the efficiency is pretty much the same as stock. No trailer lights needed if your footlockers don't block the taillights.

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This is awesome. Would love to see more pictures and info shared on EV Adventuring FB group.

 

[gdwenger]

Correct, I can no longer use the Thule Transporter Combi box on a 1.25" hitch--only 2" hitch receivers unless I purchase or weld my own adapter.

Pictures attached. To cut the shank, I basically measured the clearance I wanted from the trunk + an inch or so and then used an angle grinder with a cutoff blade to lop off the appropriate amount.
Tapping the steel was a pain, but I do appreciate how secure the box is with it.

Thanks for the info. Based on your setup, I moved the mounting hole 6” closer. This provides 2” of clearance between trunk lid and box when opening the trunk. Didn’t like that the supplied bolt didn’t go through both ends of the receiver tube so I’m using 2 shorter bolts to screw into the receiver shank. This modification really makes for solid noise free installation. My only complaint is that the two inside sensors are always active, due to being blocked by the carrier box. I also changed out all the carrier lights to leds since I’m using the factory trailering plug.

 

[limmerguy]

Thanks for the info. Based on your setup, I moved the mounting hole 6” closer. This provides 2” of clearance between trunk lid and box when opening the trunk. Didn’t like that the supplied bolt didn’t go through both ends of the receiver tube so I’m using 2 shorter bolts to screw into the receiver shank. This modification really makes for solid noise free installation. My only complaint is that the two inside sensors are always active, due to being blocked by the carrier box. I also changed out all the carrier lights to leds since I’m using the factory trailering plug.

Nice! I tried opening the light assemblies to swap in LEDs, but they were sealed super tight so I gave up. Did you replace the entire plastic assemblies? Or is there a good way to crack them open for modification? I remember the halogen incandescent bulbs pulling over 7 amps when braking which comes close to my resettable fuse’s 10 amps.

 

[gdwenger]

Nice! I tried opening the light assemblies to swap in LEDs, but they were sealed super tight so I gave up. Did you replace the entire plastic assemblies? Or is there a good way to crack them open for modification? I remember the halogen incandescent bulbs pulling over 7 amps when braking which comes close to my resettable fuse’s 10 amps.

Replacement tail light and license lights from Amazon. Everything less than 1 amp which than allows use of the factory wiring

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FY7MIZ4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z6WQ6Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[limmerguy]

Replacement tail light and license lights from Amazon. Everything less than 1 amp which than allows use of the factory wiring

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FY7MIZ4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z6WQ6Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

got it! Before splurging on these, I will try to crack open the existing housings to see if the bulbs can be replaced. Then try to seal them back up.

 

[gdwenger]

got it! Before splurging on these, I will try to crack open the existing housings to see if the bulbs can be replaced. Then try to seal them back up.

I have read the easily way to break sealed units is to use your oven to soften the seal.

 

[thefrog1394]

Very informative thread. Considering picking one of these up for some extra space on long trips. On gas cars I've done roof boxes, but with the widely spaced V2 Supercharger installs and increasing SC prices, I'd rather not cut range by 30%.

Thanks for the info. Based on your setup, I moved the mounting hole 6” closer. This provides 2” of clearance between trunk lid and box when opening the trunk. Didn’t like that the supplied bolt didn’t go through both ends of the receiver tube so I’m using 2 shorter bolts to screw into the receiver shank. This modification really makes for solid noise free installation. My only complaint is that the two inside sensors are always active, due to being blocked by the carrier box. I also changed out all the carrier lights to leds since I’m using the factory trailering plug.

So did you cut exactly 6" off of the shank? Angle grinder? And did you just use a standard drill to re-drill the hole for the hitch pin?

 

[limmerguy]

Very informative thread. Considering picking one of these up for some extra space on long trips. On gas cars I've done roof boxes, but with the widely spaced V2 Supercharger installs and increasing SC prices, I'd rather not cut range by 30%.


So did you cut exactly 6" off of the shank? Angle grinder? And did you just use a standard drill to re-drill the hole for the hitch pin?

I disassembled the shank from the cargo box for easier handling. I used an angle grinder and a 4.5” cut off wheel. Had to rotate the shank 3 times to cut deep enough all the way around.

I used an electric hand drill for the hole. It would be preferable to have a drill press since it’s difficult to get perfectly perpendicular by hand.

I tapped by hand. It took a lot of work. If I had to do it again, I’d probably just use a regular (loose) hitch pin and an anti-rattle hitch clamp and call it a day. No tapping to save the energy.