Ok, so taking out the seasonal variations, there's a slow steady decline under the covers that only becomes visible as a step down after one of those long drive/charge cycles recalibrates the world. In terms of planning for a need-based move to the 3.0 battery, one should do a deep cycle every, say, 6 months or a year, and monitor the progression. I guess my question was, is the corrected CAC progression going to be linear, or have a knee?
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Roadster 3.0
- Thread starter DrComputer
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dhrivnak
Active Member
Marius
Member
If my understanding is correct Tesla will deliver a pack that adds about 75 kilogram to the car. Although this is not that much still I find the car already heavy now with impact on riding and braking. Recently I lost the car in a curve braking out on the backside mainly due to the heavy back and this will be more with the 3.0 upgrade. Why does Tesla not deliver an option with just 4800 cells instead of 6831, reducing weight and improving handling? Software update is not necessary since all characteristics of the pack stays the same. It is just taking 6831 cells out and pushing 4800 in with lower point of gravity as well.
I have asked in the Netherlands at Tesla Servicecenter and pricing is 35k euro and delivery time is 15 months. Very expensive, but that is what it is.
I know Gruber Power is offering a pack with lower weight and 240 miles range. Although reputation of Gruber is not that strong if I read this forum, however does somebody already have the experience and took the guess of this alternative?
By the way my current pack already did 165.000 miles and CAC fell back to 125.
I have asked in the Netherlands at Tesla Servicecenter and pricing is 35k euro and delivery time is 15 months. Very expensive, but that is what it is.
I know Gruber Power is offering a pack with lower weight and 240 miles range. Although reputation of Gruber is not that strong if I read this forum, however does somebody already have the experience and took the guess of this alternative?
By the way my current pack already did 165.000 miles and CAC fell back to 125.
Botbldr45
Member
That is correct! When they did my upgrade they disconnected my OVMS leaving old readings on the display. They update firmware AFTER battery installation and run diagnostics to make the PEM's new board work properly. My readings on OVMS were the same as the day I dropped if off until I had to reattach the the OVMS. They said that they did it .... Not!
After reattaching all was well.
Mine was done in Scottsdale but I know the Rockville SC in Baltomore area is outstanding because hey serviced #992 for five years.
dhrivnak
Active Member
Well I am all in now as I placed my $5000 deposit on the new battery. Bring on the 300+ mile road trips. But first and after I get it balanced I think I will try for a record. 453 miles should give it to me. That will be one LONG day.
My estimate is that to achieve 300+ miles with a new fully charged 3.0 battery you will have to keep your speed to 55 and avoid headwinds and elevation gain.
To go 453 miles I suspect you will need to maintain around 35mph the entire trip.
dhrivnak
Active Member
DaveD
EVs Kick Gas!
dhrivnak
Active Member
Open road is my goal.
PS. My receipt from Tesla said my item would be shipped in 3 days. One can only hope
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
dhrivnak
Active Member
And I don't think the Roadster cruise control allows you to set a speed that low. So it would be an agonizing drive...
Do we have more creative ideas for a smart record with some inspiration for the Industry plus future eDrivers? Me I prefer 1,800 wonderful moments with each charge in my #1001 than 18 mph for sleepless 20hrs+. Not to think about how my shining Green Super Sports Car would feel, permanently slower than his fat owner even out of training on the bicycle ...
Love the range offered from my 3.0 battery (339 ideal miles).
HOWEVER, when I put the car on either of my (different make) home chargers, the maximum current it will allow is 16A.
Has anyone found this issue? Does this suggest some incorrect reading of the max current - my chargers are both over 30A and charge other cars at that.
HOWEVER, when I put the car on either of my (different make) home chargers, the maximum current it will allow is 16A.
Has anyone found this issue? Does this suggest some incorrect reading of the max current - my chargers are both over 30A and charge other cars at that.
It turns out that I can now only amend the max charging rate upwards when the car is actually charging.
I am pretty sure that previously (i.e. prior to the 3.0 battery and firmware) I could amend the rate up to the max supply when the car was plugged in but awaiting charging at a preset schedule time.
DaveD
EVs Kick Gas!
I just checked my Roadster, and it has that same behavior -- when it's plugged in but not charging the Current settings available are only 12 or 16 Amps. After I got my Roadster back from the 3.0 upgrade, I never had cause to change it from the current setting that it had stored for my home location (40 Amps), so I hadn't noticed this behavior.
Btw, the current settings can also be changed through the whole range when it's not plugged in and the charge door is closed. Just tap the VDS screen a few times to turn on the display, then proceed to the Current setting screen.
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