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Roadster 3.0

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Actually... why not a little P/shop courtesy of the #1232 thread.

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  • Informative
Reactions: Bifff67
So Roadster is in the shop with a bad cell... I have the option of fixing the cell for $10K or getting a new pack for $30K (neither is very welcome right now.)
I was wondering:
Does the new battery require a new PEM?
Are the parasitic losses on the new battery design as bad as the old one?
Is battery balancing still an issue with the new battery?
I see that the new battery is heavier than the old one: do you notice any performance (acceleration, handling, etc) degradation?
Does anyone know if there are any used batteries out there?

Anyone have any suggestions or additional questions I should be asking?
 
So Roadster is in the shop with a bad cell... I have the option of fixing the cell for $10K or getting a new pack for $30K (neither is very welcome right now.)
I was wondering:
Does the new battery require a new PEM?
Are the parasitic losses on the new battery design as bad as the old one?
Is battery balancing still an issue with the new battery?
I see that the new battery is heavier than the old one: do you notice any performance (acceleration, handling, etc) degradation?
Does anyone know if there are any used batteries out there?

Anyone have any suggestions or additional questions I should be asking?

The PEM is the same, though I think there are some firmware changes in it.

I haven't noticed any difference in parasitic losses, but I drive my car a lot and don't leave it unplugged, so I'm not a good test case.

Balancing is more of an issue with the new battery than with the old one, because standard mode charge is a lower percentage of full capacity (around 80%) so balancing works worse at standard charge in 3.0 than the original battery.

While the battery is a little heavier, it's also slightly higher voltage, so power is increased (I've seen numbers around 243 kW), so most likely performance is overall better. However, I don't know of anyone who's put one on a drag strip.

Degradation is *much* worse than with the original battery, at least until about 10% of capacity loss; there's some hint that it might plateau there, but the jury is still out on that. There's a thread that I started called "3.0 Battery Longevity" where I've collected and graphed data from five 3.0 Roadsters that you can look at if you're curious.
 
Does the battery really have a higher voltage?
I doubt this.
The simple fact is that because of the increase in capacity the voltage drop with full acceleration is less, hence power output will be higher.
My current pack has degraded from 53 kW to about 40kW. So my sport 2.0 only touches the promised 200 kW at performance charging to full 100%, while 5 years ago I also got 200 kW with 80% of capacity in the battery
 
I got my #255 back today as a 3.0, and it is amazing to see 348 miles on the VDS. The CAC is 215.00 and it arrived with a full range charge and the battery showed perfect balance. It took 3 weeks for the upgrade and they gave me a P85D as a loaner. While the Model S is nice and SuperChargers are fantastic, I am glad to have the Roadster back. It is strange but for me the Roadster is easier to get in and out of than the Model S. I also found out the 21" performance tires are a pain as I busted one on a pothole. No-one had one in stock, not even Tesla. SO I had to go to tire rack to the tune of $400. It makes the Roadster tires cheap by comparison. The car gained 100 lbs with the new battery and I am 90% sure they swapped the PEM. I forgot to record the serial number but this one has a remanufactured label on it and mine was original. I hope to make it to the track in two weeks to see how the 1/4 mile has changed. After a little time I will send logs.

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From those with upgrade experience, what is the consensus on the downsides to getting a 3.0 upgrade, aside from cost, if the battery being replaced is in good shape so it would only be to increase range? Does the 29K price include labor? Does Tesla allow you to sell your original battery or is them taking the original battery and refurbishing it a part of the stated cost?
 
The 29k price includes labor. The price is for an exchange of battery packs, so you don't get to keep or sell your old pack. Tesla won't even sell you a 3.0 upgrade at any price unless they get your old pack.

As for the reasons to do it, I could use the extra range so I'll probably do it within a year. I used to think the new pack would have the advantage of having better chemistry so it would last longer than the old cells. Now I'm not so sure. The 3.0 pack appears to be more age/time sensitive while the old pack is primarily miles sensitive.
 
I bought my car second hand from Tesla who had taken it from the previous owner in part exchange for a Model S. It therefore had no battery plan, and I paid full price.
If a battery replacement program was purchased with the car when it was new then that program stays with the car and passes on to the next owner. In your case the original owner probably didn't buy the replacement option.