Roadster 3.0

[bolosky]

One thing you should do is to download the logs onto a USB flash drive periodically, such as monthly. That allows tracking the change in CAC and also seeing which bricks are the worst performers.

And you're willing, send the logs to me and I'll include them in the 3.0 battery degradation study.

BTW, you can track the CAC for the entire history of the car with only the latest log, since it gets written into the daily record in the permanent log. There's lots of other stuff in the temporary log that you might want, so keeping it monthly is a good idea regardless.

 

[smorgasbord]

Tesla engineering got back to my service rep and told her that I need to drive the car for 3 cycles where I deplete the battery down to ~20%. They said that it will "reset" the display to show the accurate range for the 3.0 battery when it charges from that point. Seems odd since I never once saw a person who had the prior 3.0 upgrade in the past say that they had to drive it like this before the range changed. I will see what happens over the next few weeks.

OK, so I just picked my car up with the 3.0 battery upgrade but no 3.0 badge.

Second thing I noticed was that OVMS was showing 208 Ideal miles at 93% in MAX RANGE mode. Hmm...
I did open the trunk, and the new battery shell has a label with "ASY, HV BATTERY, 3.0 ROADSTER 2.X" label.
The different PEM has a sticker with SAP: 1071439-00-A and S/N: 0517F20000020"

Unfortunately, it was end of day at the SC, so I ended up just driving home. Now home with like 145 miles in Standard at about 85% on the lower scale.

Do I charge overnight, or wait until I've driven it some more?

 

[smorgasbord]

They contacted me a few days ago and said that they could not yet do the swap as my existing battery was fairly full when I turned the car over to them and they need it down to about 10% of a full charge.

That's weird. I dropped my car off with something like 130 miles of Standard Range and they didn't bat an eye and as far as OVMS was telling me, did not drain the battery before removing it from the car.

 

[Earl]

With There's this discussion about Roadster 3.0 here, yet the Torrance Tesla Roadster Service Center claims to know nothing about the new batteries. Which Service Center are folks working through?
We don't need a new battery yet but likely will in the next couple of years.

 

[smorgasbord]

With There's this discussion about Roadster 3.0 here, yet the Torrance Tesla Roadster Service Center claims to know nothing about the new batteries. Which Service Center are folks working through?
We don't need a new battery yet but likely will in the next couple of years.

1) Torrance sounds like they're clueless. Email [email protected] instead.
2) I didn't really need a new battery just yet, but my concern is that Tesla may discontinue this battery upgrade program at any time, so I grabbed it while the grabbing was good. I had put down my deposit years ago to "hold" my position, which worked, but today I lack confidence in how long they'll be doing this. Besides, I'm not getting any younger and the new battery greatly simplifies road tripping.
3) I'm using Palo Alto. I know Sunnyvale has done 3.0 upgrades, too.

 

[dhrivnak]

OK, so I just picked my car up with the 3.0 battery upgrade but no 3.0 badge.

Second thing I noticed was that OVMS was showing 208 Ideal miles at 93% in MAX RANGE mode. Hmm...
I did open the trunk, and the new battery shell has a label with "ASY, HV BATTERY, 3.0 ROADSTER 2.X" label.
The different PEM has a sticker with SAP: 1071439-00-A and S/N: 0517F20000020"

Unfortunately, it was end of day at the SC, so I ended up just driving home. Now home with like 145 miles in Standard at about 85% on the lower scale.

Do I charge overnight, or wait until I've driven it some more?

I would do a full charge and see if the numbers change. Either the BSM needs calibrated or they did not update the firmware. I would hate to think Tesla gave you an old battery.

 

[smorgasbord]

My car is going back into the Service Center tomorrow. They think the "firmware didn't take." I did try a full charge that night and it only charged to 157, which is what my old battery charged to. I also got an "ESS Temperature Sensor Fault" (ID: 14) message.

 

[slcasner]

Lame. What happened to testing before releasing to the customer?

 

[TEG]

Going to ask for them to put the r80 badge on now?

Maybe all they did was change the sticker on your old ESS !

 

[Earl]

Lame. What happened to testing before releasing to the customer?

Its not like any other manufacture re-engineers parts for 13 year old car models either though. Just try to replace an old Freon HVAC unit on an old ICE.

 

[cld]

My car is going back into the Service Center tomorrow. They think the "firmware didn't take." I did try a full charge that night and it only charged to 157, which is what my old battery charged to. I also got an "ESS Temperature Sensor Fault" (ID: 14) message.

They told me that I have to fully deplete the battery at least three times before the ranges will reset. I am curious to hear what they tell you. I have been a bit busy and have not yet got through three cycles where I can take the battery down by driving it. Hope you get a better answer.

 

[slcasner]

When I got my 3.0 battery in 2016 they range charged it to 335 miles the day before they gave it back to me. My first range charge three weeks after that was to 343 miles, with standard charges to 232, 238 and 240 miles in between. No "full deplete the battery three times" story. But conversely my battery has degraded significantly in the five years since then.

 

[smorgasbord]

On the second charging attempt, my car threw a bunch of warning/error messages. On the day I was to bring it in, I had some very serious sounding messages, but the car came alive and let me drive it. For a bit. I'm up at over 2,000 feet so the first few miles of driving is downhill with regen. The car did not like that. At the bottom, the car gave me a "Pull over immediately, I'm going to shutdown real soon now" message - which I did and it did.

But, the car did "start up" again, so I continued to drive it into the SC. Made it.

I picked my car up earlier today. They said that a connector/connection inside the battery/sheets was loose. They speculated that it may have come loose on my drive home when I went over bumps. One service advisor said that they had to call into Tesla Engineering for help and that they pointed them at a loose connection. Another service advisor speculated this wasn't the first time this had happened. They did open my battery up, btw, so my "warranty void if broken" sticker is essentially broken (unstuck and restuck, I'll have to talk with them about that).

They did a RANGE charge, but didn't take it all the way (something close to 300 miles). I drove it home with no issues. OVMS did a Cooldown with no issues. Set for a STANDARD charge tonight.

The should not be a need to draw down the battery to "reset" the range. The range will update as the CAC gets recalculated over time, but it's not going to be way off. At this point don't believe anything Tesla service advisors say about the car. Maybe believe the technician, but my group struggled with understanding how the cluster could say one range while the VDS said another. It was, obviously, because I have the cluster showing projected range from my last N miles of driving while VDS always shows Ideal.

I'm going to pull a log file now so the next one is all new battery.

 

[cld]

On the second charging attempt, my car threw a bunch of warning/error messages. On the day I was to bring it in, I had some very serious sounding messages, but the car came alive and let me drive it. For a bit. I'm up at over 2,000 feet so the first few miles of driving is downhill with regen. The car did not like that. At the bottom, the car gave me a "Pull over immediately, I'm going to shutdown real soon now" message - which I did and it did.

But, the car did "start up" again, so I continued to drive it into the SC. Made it.

I picked my car up earlier today. They said that a connector/connection inside the battery/sheets was loose. They speculated that it may have come loose on my drive home when I went over bumps. One service advisor said that they had to call into Tesla Engineering for help and that they pointed them at a loose connection. Another service advisor speculated this wasn't the first time this had happened. They did open my battery up, btw, so my "warranty void if broken" sticker is essentially broken (unstuck and restuck, I'll have to talk with them about that).

They did a RANGE charge, but didn't take it all the way (something close to 300 miles). I drove it home with no issues. OVMS did a Cooldown with no issues. Set for a STANDARD charge tonight.

The should not be a need to draw down the battery to "reset" the range. The range will update as the CAC gets recalculated over time, but it's not going to be way off. At this point don't believe anything Tesla service advisors say about the car. Maybe believe the technician, but my group struggled with understanding how the cluster could say one range while the VDS said another. It was, obviously, because I have the cluster showing projected range from my last N miles of driving while VDS always shows Ideal.

I'm going to pull a log file now so the next one is all new battery.

Glad to hear your car is now ok. So when they first installed and you charged that first night, it showed it only charged to 157. You took it in and they did a full charge at it got to 300? I am asking because I have done a range charge to 95% and it still goes to only 235. DId they say what was the reason why it only was showing 157 when you charged it after its installation? Thanks for posting!

 

[smorgasbord]

The reason they gave for all my problems was the loose connection.
Can you get into the VDS screen and see the CAC value? There might be instructions here or someone can PM you with them.

 

[cld]

The reason they gave for all my problems was the loose connection.
Can you get into the VDS screen and see the CAC value? There might be instructions here or someone can PM you with them.

My CAC is 154

 

[Gremlin]

I just got off the phone with the Tesla rep who is now handling Roadster Support. He took over from Matt K about a year ago. He provided a lot of answers to the important questions we've all been asking. The reason for the phone call was I exercised my option under the Battery Replacement Program that I purchased when I bought my Roadster new (VIN 1150). It was refreshing to get answers after we've all been kept in the dark for so long. Having said that, a couple of his answers seemed hard to believe which might cast a little doubt over his other answers, but he was sincere and doing his best to provide complete and accurate information. Some of his answers were good news if true.

• Me: Are these the same LG cells as the previous 3.0 pack? A: No. These are completely new technology and are not expected to have the same longevity issues as the original 3.0 cells. They are made by Tesla.
• Will Tesla also replace my PEM? A: Yes. He believes that the PEM is brand new, not refurbished. Me: I don't trust this as it would take enormous resources to manufacture/validate brand new PEMs vs reman. Perhaps you mean some of the components are new? A: "I believe these are all new PEMs."
• What is the capacity of the replacement pack? A: He doesn't know the exact capacity in kWh. However, it has approximately 40% more capacity than the original pack. Most of them are charging up to about 330 miles in Range mode. It is also a few pounds heaver, but not much.
• Is there any warranty on the new pack? A: Yes. Three years or 36k miles, whichever comes first. Normal degradation is not covered.
• How soon can I get one? A: We are ready to schedule your appointment as soon as the service center has time. The battery is on its way. We are moving quickly through the list of people who have placed a $5k deposit on a 3.0 battery and others like you with replacement contracts.
  

Okay rookie owner here car be here in couple of hours...FINALLY. Is there financing for these packs through Tesla or do I have to sell some NVIDA stock? Henry thanks for the Can Sr in advance.

 

[cld]

Okay rookie owner here car be here in couple of hours...FINALLY. Is there financing for these packs through Tesla or do I have to sell some NVIDA stock? Henry thanks for the Can Sr in advance.

No financing, but they will take a credit card.

 

[OakvilleMYP]

Okay rookie owner here car be here in couple of hours...FINALLY. Is there financing for these packs through Tesla or do I have to sell some NVIDA stock? Henry thanks for the Can Sr in advance.

Don't you have a super low mileage example?

If so, why upgrade it to 3.0 until some point in the future.
Maybe just add yourself to the list and push it out as long as you can?

 

[cld]

Wanted to share an update. I finally had a chance to fully run the battery down on a long trip to where it alerted and said the battery was low. At the time it had 10% remaining when I charged it. After a full range charge, it now shows an estimated range of 284 miles at 96%. It says it charged to 78kwh so makes sense that it is indeed an 80kwh battery. The CAC did not recalculate as it still says 153.9 and the SOH now shows at 87%. My guess is that it is going to take a few more battery depletion runs before the ranges will normalize to the new battery. Not sure if the CAC will also normalize. Hope this helps others. Here is my readout on OVMS.