Roadster charging

[Tommie66]

well I bought a salvage 2010 roadster
No charging cable
I’m sure it has not been charged for some time
Woundering if it’s possible to make a simple charging cable?

 

[petergrub]

I’m sure it has not been charged for some time

Is the battery bricked, or does the touch screen turn on?

Woundering if it’s possible to make a simple charging cable?

Not really since the charge connector is proprietary, but with an adapter you could use a charger with a J1772 connector.

 

[Tommie66]

Is the battery bricked, or does the touch screen turn on?


Not really since the charge connector is proprietary, but with an adapter you could use a charger with a J1772 connector.

Don’t have the car yet

 

[X.l.r.8]

many options but heres the easiest, a canSr and a tesla UMC. That gives you 120v 10-16A and 240v 12-32/40A
Then if you want a faster charge get a HPWC for around $400. The roadster plug is proprietary and without an adapter you will be searching for something thats hard to obtain. A CanJr will give you access to J1772 chargers which may be more or less of a benefit to you. I would say a good majority of us have in their possession CAN Jr and Sr, a UMC for road trips, a HPWC or Open EVSE for home use. Plugging a UMC or any 14-50 repeatedly is not ideal as the plug and socket designed for maintenance and occasional replacement rather than a daily process so a static charger at home would be a more ideal situation. Again if the battery has not been charged in a long while and the service disconnect was not pulled, don't expect a simple charge process, it could well have effectively bricked the battery and there are few options of recovery without spending many thousands of dollars.

 

[Tommie66]

Thank you for your replies
I have a Tesla charger from a newer vehicle which I believe will work on my roadster with the correct roadster adapter
I need a roadster adapter
Anyone out there have one they are willing to sell ?or if someone might tell me where I might get one
Thanks

 

[petergrub]

or if someone might tell me where I might get one

Tesla doesn't make any adapters from Tesla2 -> Roadster, so you're looking for an aftermarket solution called the CANSR.

 

[Tommie66]

Tesla doesn't make any adapters from Tesla2 -> Roadster, so you're looking for an aftermarket solution called the CANSR.

Peter
I see you sell a Can Jr. Will that work for me or do I need to look for a Can Sr?

 

[X.l.r.8]

Drop down menu gets you to the canSr or @hcsharp will sell you direct.

 

[Tommie66]

Ok so if the battery is dead ! I assume the car is in park?
How to get it to roll or get out off park?

 

[X.l.r.8]

LMGTFY
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default..._2.5owners_manual_-_web_version_-_ja_en_0.pdf
6-5 and 9-15

 

[petergrub]

How to get it to roll or get out off park?

I have instructions I email to owners all the time for this process. In a nutshell, you apply 12V power to the APS leads in the back of the Roadster and then use the touchscreen to put the Roadster into Tow Mode. The TCM requires 12V power and a particular CAN message to unlock the parking pawl in the transmission.

 

[Tommie66]

I have instructions I email to owners all the time for this process. In a nutshell, you apply 12V power to the APS leads in the back of the Roadster and then use the touchscreen to put the Roadster into Tow Mode. The TCM requires 12V power and a particular CAN message to unlock the parking pawl in the transmission.

Thanks peter if you can email them to me that would be great [email protected]

 

[Tommie66]

Thanks peter if you can email them to me that would be great [email protected]

Thanks Peter
Where do I find the APS leads in the rear ?

 

[petergrub]

Where do I find the APS leads in the rear

They are in front of the rear right wheel. Once the wheel and wheel arch liner are removed you will see a ground point on the side of the frame. That's where your ground lead/cable is at. It's the thickest gauge wire there. The positive lead/cable is in the small black box towards the front of the Roadster. You will see a heavy gauge wire on the right with a ring of red heat shrink, and on the left is the APS positive lead/cable which will look like your negative except it will have a ring of red heat shrink.

Let me know if you still can't find them.

 

[Tommie66]

They are in front of the rear right wheel. Once the wheel and wheel arch liner are removed you will see a ground point on the side of the frame. That's where your ground lead/cable is at. It's the thickest gauge wire there. The positive lead/cable is in the small black box towards the front of the Roadster. You will see a heavy gauge wire on the right with a ring of red heat shrink, and on the left is the APS positive lead/cable which will look like your negative except it will have a ring of red heat shrink.

Let me know if you still can't find them.

Thank you Peter
Question I have a newer model 40amp 115
Tesla charger
What voltage readings should I get checking the out put? I get 11.75 BEC on small pins and nothing on the two large pins?
Is the charge bad or is the a signal required from the car?
Also right now I don’t what to spend $ for a can Dr since the car was a salvage car I’m hoping you can they’ll me the pin outs on the Tesla charge and the pin inputs on the roadster charging port?

 

[petergrub]

I get 11.75 BEC on small pins and nothing on the two large pins?

That's normal. The ~12V is the pilot signal from the charger to tell the Roadster a power supply is present and ready to send power when the Roadster is ready. The two larger pins on the charger will not energize with 240V until that handshake has completed.

Also right now I don’t what to spend $ for a can Dr since the car was a salvage car I’m hoping you can they’ll me the pin outs on the Tesla charge and the pin inputs on the roadster charging port?

You can look for a Roadster yellow spare connector. They are 120V and are usually less costly. Otherwise, the pin out for the charger is not something you want to fudge at the charge port. Open the PEM service window on the passenger side of the PEM and you will find the connections from the charge port to the PEM. Add ring terminals to your charger wires and you can tap directly into the PEM line inputs.

I wouldn't condone this, so tread carefully.

 

[Tommie66]

That's normal. The ~12V is the pilot signal from the charger to tell the Roadster a power supply is present and ready to send power when the Roadster is ready. The two larger pins on the charger will not energize with 240V until that handshake has completed.


You can look for a Roadster yellow spare connector. They are 120V and are usually less costly. Otherwise, the pin out for the charger is not something you want to fudge at the charge port. Open the PEM service window on the passenger side of the PEM and you will find the connections from the charge port to the PEM. Add ring terminals to your charger wires and you can tap directly into the PEM line inputs.

I wouldn't condone this, so tread carefully.

Thank you very much for all your help

 

[Tommie66]

Thank you very much for all your help

So peter we are talking about connecting to terminals Ac1 and Ac 2 in the set port which appear to go to charging port correct?
But how to get the charger to output voltage?and what should it be?

 

[Tommie66]

Thank you very much for all your help

So peter we are talking about connecting to terminals Ac1 and Ac 2 in the set port which appear to go to charging port correct?
But how to get the charger to output voltage?and what should it be?

 

[Tommie66]

Ok figure out the charger needed 12 volts to activate it! N/p
Sing an I8 charger @ 10amps to try and recover the pack. Suggestions?