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Roadster HVAC Overheating Problems

Discussion in 'Roadster: Technical' started by DanielFriederich, Dec 15, 2015.

  1. hcsharp

    hcsharp Active Member

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    I've been dealing with this since the weather got warm. This should be merged with the other thread on the topic.
    HVAC Front Fans not working, maybe also compressor
    It appears that Tesla techs are good at over-charging the A/C system. I agree with the two posts above.
     
  2. DanielFriederich

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    • Like x 3
  3. shrink

    shrink Supporting Member

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  4. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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  5. Nvbob

    Nvbob Roadster 1256

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    Thank you very much!
     
  6. dpeilow

    dpeilow Moderator

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    Posted my own thread but was directed here (this thread title didn't immediately suggest it covered the problem).

    I have been getting the same over temp / over pressure messages and I'm aware of another UK owner reporting the same privately. The weather here hasn't been that hot and it's never happened before to me.

    Why the sudden rash of these errors? Has there been a Tesla service bulletin with incorrect values? AFAIK the Roadster technician in the UK hasn't changed.
     
  7. BartJ

    BartJ early member

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    I think they are using incorrect instructions , or, they don't have the correct machine available to do refills at every SC.
    Last time I was at that SC , the techician was not even aware that the HVAC was used for battery cooling as well...
     
  8. DanielFriederich

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    OK.. other stuff I collected was free available on the net... I can make a list or a folder for download if wanted.

    BTW: I wrote to Tesla about the Roadster mechanic compendium.
    All repairs, parts list etc. are available online on Tesla's site (for private persons too) but you have to pay for it.
     
  9. Rolf68

    Rolf68 Member

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  10. dpeilow

    dpeilow Moderator

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    #50 dpeilow, Jun 30, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2016
    Clearly Tesla monitor this forum because I just had a phone call from the local SC.

    Full marks for proactive customer service at least.
     
  11. Habious

    Habious Member

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    I've had that happen as well. Started a thread about an issue I was having at my local SC and, 4 hours later, my local SC calls me on my cell phone to "clear up the misunderstanding". I thought it was quite the happy coincidence.
     
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  12. Rolf68

    Rolf68 Member

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    Hello everybody.

    Here's a little summary of my own "adventures" with the HVAC.

    I bought a used roadster last january and had so far experienced no special trouble with it. I use this car as my daily driver, not a garage queen :) . As summer arrived slowly, the car started to get hot and one day, after having driven for a long time in the sun, a loud sound started under the hood a few kilometers before arriving home. I never heard such a loud noise before and at first I was afraid the car was broken. I soon discovered that it was just the HVAC which was running in order to lower the battery pack temperature. At this moment, the motor, PEM, and batt temperature monitor were all in the last "blue square" on the screen. Once at home I let the car cool down but from this day on it became terribly noisy when charging, with the HVAC running full speed hours long.

    On this image you can see the battery is 30° and the car request 100% cooling. The compressor runs at a madly 6000 RPM (thus the noise I suppose) and the pressure is only 8.8 . After several hours the temperature of the coolant dropped to ... 26. Not good :(

    IMG_20160702_084437.jpg

    I then had the car serviced, and they told me there's a leak of coolant somewhere in the condenser (the grill under the 2 big fans). It absolutely needs to be changed really soon :( I don't have any expected cost yet, but I'm already afraid for my wallet.

    They fixed the whole thing like they could in the meanwhile, and refilled coolant / gaz in the HVAC .

    Now the car charges itself really well. The HVAC still starts from time to time, but only a few minutes and then shuts itself down again. The coolant gets cold really fast and the battery seems to like that ;) The great thing is that the compressor only need to go till 4800 RPM so it's much more quiet, and as said before only last for a few minutes and no more hours long.

    Here the new figures when charging :

    IMG_20160706_160929.jpg

    So if your car become noisy when charging, check the pressure and the compressor RPM, If pressure is low and RPM high, it could be a leak like in my case.

    Have a nice day :)

    Sorry for my bad english !
     
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  13. hcsharp

    hcsharp Active Member

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    First, we're glad to have you on the forum so don't apologize about your English. I wish I could speak French that well!

    It's good to get some normal baseline numbers for what the pressure is supposed to be. My Roadster was overcharged by Tesla so I let some out and I think I might have drained too much. It no longer goes as high as 18 bar at 6,000 rpm at 25C so I might have to put some back in. It took a few days after I drained it for it to settle down to the current pressures.
     
  14. dpeilow

    dpeilow Moderator

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    I had this error again at the weekend after a few weeks of normal behaviour. It wasn't particularly hot here.

    I pulled the logs and uploaded them to Tesla, but I also ran them through the graphical log file parser and it seems the battery temperature hits 40°C roughly in line with when I've seen these errors. Normally it's nowhere near that.
     
  15. tvuolo

    tvuolo Supporting Member

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    So is 18.0 bar the proper pressure? Mine is at 15.3 bar when 100% cooling is requested. What's the range, and when should I fill it? Mine is much noisier than when I first got the car.
     
  16. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    You can't just use the pressure-it varies with outside and inside temp, altitude and humidity. If your cabin outlet temp reads around 12C after running the A/C on high for around 5 minutes (no battery cooling), you should be ok.
     
  17. BartJ

    BartJ early member

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    I'm not so sure about this. My cabin cooling was working fine. But battery cooling is more demanding from the HVAC in my opinion, so certain errors will only popup during battery cooling.
     
  18. Rolf68

    Rolf68 Member

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    I cannot tell for sure 18 is the proper pressure in every circumstances. Last sunday the weather was really hot here (39°C / 102°F) and while charging the pressure climbed to 19.8. But I guess the lower the worst. But you still have twice the pressure I had when I had only 70g of coolant remaining :)

    Btw, does anybody know if running the cabin cooling also always cools the battery pack or if there are 2 separate cooling circuits ? On sunday I was driving in the hot sun and i saw the battery was heating to 39/40 and I wondered if it could get cooled if I use the climatizer although I had the top off the car, or if it's just a waste of energy.

    Have a nice day :)
     
  19. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    He seemed to be concerned if his system was filled enough - not overfilled and throwing codes. The only way to get a rough idea of the charge is to let the system runs for several minutes, using the outlet temp as a guide. The correct way would be to take temp and pressure readings from both the high and low sides, and compare that to the outside temp readings to determine the charge level. But that is not a DIY thing.
     
  20. gregd

    gregd Active Member

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    The cooling system can cool the cabin or the battery, but not both at the same time. As you drive on a hot day with the cabin cooling on, you may hear a soft click and notice that the cabin will start getting a bit warmer for a few minutes, then another click and feel it cooling off again. In between, it's cooling the battery.

    The battery cooling is automatic, not needing you to do anything from the cabin. Nor would doing stuff in the cabin change that, unless you have an OVMS module installed. (I don't, so not sure exactly what the options are...)
     
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