Roadster JVC radio won't turn off

[EdMcConnell]

I came home today after work, removed my key and the radio stayed on.

I've pulled the radio and the amp fuse, but the radio kept playing even with the fuses out.

The controls on the radio are unresponsive, so something has fritzed and needs to be reset, but I'm not sure how to do that since pulling the fuses did nothing.

I assume there a connector somewhere (2010 Roadster #543) for the accessory battery that I can remove temporarily, if I knew where to find it. Wish I had some wiring diagrams.

Anyone had this experience before and have some ideas.

 

[Bill_Baron]

I came home today after work, removed my key and the radio stayed on.

I've pulled the radio and the amp fuse, but the radio kept playing even with the fuses out.

The controls on the radio are unresponsive, so something has fritzed and needs to be reset, but I'm not sure how to do that since pulling the fuses did nothing.

I assume there a connector somewhere (2010 Roadster #543) for the accessory battery that I can remove temporarily, if I knew where to find it. Wish I had some wiring diagrams.

Anyone had this experience before and have some ideas.

Hmm, I only know that when I connect an iphone to it, it comes out only on the left side. This is the case whether I use the cable or Bluetooth, which is hard to explain (wireless shouldn't have a bad connection). The one solution that seems to work is punching the radio. Not gently, but really hard. If it breaks, no big deal, I'm sick of the malfunctions and just need it to die so I can justify buying a new one.

 

[da2ny]

Did you try to remove the faceplate?

 

[ML Auto]

Turn the key back on and remove it again. Make sure you hear a loud click when you remove it. Sometimes the switch that turns off when you remove the key gets jammed in the on position. You can jiggle the key as you take it out and you can get it to shut off. If not, the radio fuses are #5,#24, and #27. The radio standby circuit (memory) is not directly fused, and is connected to the switchpack and instrument panel.

 

[EdMcConnell]

It turns out that removing the "Starter Switch - ACC" fuse (#14) turned the radio off and cleared the condition. Somehow, it seems the software in the radio got confused and it decided to go non-responsive no matter what you did to the buttons.

I didn't know how to removed the faceplate, but that was on my list of things to attempt, before thinking to remove the fuses associated with the "starter switch". I hope mine isn't going bad, but the issue is cleared for now.

Thanks all for your ideas

 

[Bill_Baron]

Did you try to remove the faceplate?

Yes but the problem remains when I replace it. But you're probably right, it may have something to do with the contacts on the faceplate because intense pressure on the right side sometimes produces sound out of the right side. It's hard to drive while pushing on the radio though, so I just put on a CD which works fine.

 

[drewski]

Hmm, I only know that when I connect an iphone to it, it comes out only on the left side. This is the case whether I use the cable or Bluetooth, which is hard to explain (wireless shouldn't have a bad connection). The one solution that seems to work is punching the radio. Not gently, but really hard. If it breaks, no big deal, I'm sick of the malfunctions and just need it to die so I can justify buying a new one.

The Bluetooth adapter and iPod adapter connect in series to the CD Changer input on the back of the JVC unit. This is probably why both wireless & wired connections are having issues.

The CD Changer port is on the back of the right side of the head-unit (left side when looking from the back). Since pressure on the right side of the unit seems to help, it sounds like the cable at the CD changer port may be loose.

 

[Bill_Baron]

The Bluetooth adapter and iPod adapter connect in series to the CD Changer input on the back of the JVC unit. This is probably why both wireless & wired connections are having issues.

The CD Changer port is on the back of the right side of the head-unit (left side when looking from the back). Since pressure on the right side of the unit seems to help, it sounds like the cable at the CD changer port may be loose.

That explains a lot. Unfortunately I can't even get close to the back of the radio from under the dashboard, and it looks like I'll need special tools to get the radio out. Panicopticon did a great job describing the process, so I'll order a toolkit and go from there. It might be that once I go through all the work of removing the radio, I might just put a different one in.

 

[drewski]

That explains a lot. Unfortunately I can't even get close to the back of the radio from under the dashboard, and it looks like I'll need special tools to get the radio out. Panicopticon did a great job describing the process, so I'll order a toolkit and go from there. It might be that once I go through all the work of removing the radio, I might just put a different one in.

jvc removal tools - $5
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Home-I..._dpwidget_a_w_?th=1&psc=1&smid=A3HWOD7GAPB8NI

 

[dhrivnak]

I have had the problem a few times. If I press the power button for like 30 seconds the face plate retracts and then after another minute or two the radio will shut off. It does not happen often, so it has only been an annoying inconvenience.

 

[coolVariable]

I replaced the Kenwood in my Roadster with an android car radio which was the best decision ever.
It's a pretty complicated process, but it is so nice to have a modern radio!!!

If you continue to have issues, then you should seriously consider it.

 

[drewski]

I replaced the Kenwood in my Roadster with an android car radio which was the best decision ever.
It's a pretty complicated process, but it is so nice to have a modern radio!!!

If you continue to have issues, then you should seriously consider it.

i'm looking into this. which Android radio did you install?

 

[coolVariable]

I got a 7" screen single DIN one from Joying Auto with 64GB ROM and 4GB RAM:

Joying Latest 7 Inch Single Din 4GB+64GB Android 8.1.0 Car Media Player with Built-in 4G Module

SKU: JY-UOS03N4GS

 

[drewski]

Cool. Did you have to customize the mounting bracket?

In the thread about the 6.2" version by Joying, someone said the 7" version might need that to not interfere with the HVAC controls.

I got a 7" screen single DIN one from Joying Auto with 64GB ROM and 4GB RAM:

Joying Latest 7 Inch Single Din 4GB+64GB Android 8.1.0 Car Media Player with Built-in 4G Module

SKU: JY-UOS03N4GS

 

[coolVariable]

Do you mean the metal bracket that goes around the radio to hold it in?
The Joying comes with one.
Note that the installation of the radio requires removing the entire dash!!! It's a time intensive task but otherwise very simple (you will break the pins for the passenger airbag cover though I was fine using double sided tape to put it back in place)

I have a 1.5, so no issues with the HVAC at all. Mine is a single DIN radio. For later models/double DIN, it should be even easier/better.

 

[drewski]

i have a 2.0 with single-din. do you have a picture of your install?

the bracket i was referring to was the one connecting the screen to the main unit. the two pieces, one on each side, that you can adjust the screen placement.

in the thread about the 6.2" version, a person said the 7" would interfere with HVAC so in order to raise it up more and clear the dash under the vent, the screen might need to be extended out from the radio slightly, so the brackets that connect the screen to the radio might need some customization to accomplish that.

 

[Bill_Baron]

The Bluetooth adapter and iPod adapter connect in series to the CD Changer input on the back of the JVC unit. This is probably why both wireless & wired connections are having issues.

The CD Changer port is on the back of the right side of the head-unit (left side when looking from the back). Since pressure on the right side of the unit seems to help, it sounds like the cable at the CD changer port may be loose.

I realize this thread diverged in two directions, mostly my own doing (sorry).

My toolkit arrived today, and it took no time to get the radio out. Behind the radio was (SURPRISE!) a mouse nest! Yuck! So I boldly started pulling out fistfulls of crap, not sure if I'd encounter skeletal remains. Fortunately no, just insulation, paper and hay, mostly behind the passenger airbag. But there was an incredible amount. I couldn't get it all out, but you can see the significant pile on my garage floor. I put a nail next to the pile for scale.

However, this was not the cause of my radio problems. It was in fact the DIN connector. Mine only had a single cable which disappeared deep behind the dashboard with the rest of the wire harness, but both the apple connector and Bluetooth cut in and out on the right side when I wiggled it. I never really solved this problem, but putting the cable in a different stress position seemed to stabilize it. At least until the next pothole!

 

[drewski]

<snip>
Behind the radio was (SURPRISE!) a mouse nest! Yuck! So I boldly started pulling out fistfulls of crap, not sure if I'd encounter skeletal remains. Fortunately no, just insulation, paper and hay, mostly behind the passenger airbag. But there was an incredible amount. I couldn't get it all out, but you can see the significant pile on my garage floor. I put a nail next to the pile for scale.

Gross!

However, this was not the cause of my radio problems. It was in fact the DIN connector. Mine only had a single cable which disappeared deep behind the dashboard with the rest of the wire harness, but both the apple connector and Bluetooth cut in and out on the right side when I wiggled it. I never really solved this problem, but putting the cable in a different stress position seemed to stabilize it. At least until the next pothole!

Maybe the mouse nibbled on the cable & plug?

I think the BT box & other components are behind the drivers cubby / light switch thing

 

[Roadrunner13]

...Note that the installation of the radio requires removing the entire dash!!...

@coolVariable ,
I guess I don't know what I'd be getting into but looking at the pics from Bill, the radio unit just slided out and wires followed through.
IF wires are long enough can't we just cut & reconnect and slide the new unit in without taking the dash apart?
(I wouldn't be adding any of the stuff we don't already have like a rear camera or other)
Is that metal box radio specific?

That Android unit you've installed is REALLY tempting me!

Thanks!

 

[Bill_Baron]

@coolVariable ,
I guess I don't know what I'd be getting into but looking at the pics from Bill, the radio unit just slided out and wires followed through.
IF wires are long enough can't we just cut & reconnect and slide the new unit in without taking the dash apart?
(I wouldn't be adding any of the stuff we don't already have like a rear camera or other)
Is that metal box radio specific?

That Android unit you've installed is REALLY tempting me!

Thanks!

Yeah, my radio had loads of slack on the wires, enough for the radio to sit on the floor and still be fully connected. But you'll have a lot of splicing ahead of you. There's inputs from all sorts of non-radio related sources. I'm just happy my old radio is fully functional again and I no longer need to punch it. I'll just keep it until it fails again.