Low beam indicator was on my display. My headlights don't work and been in the shop several times with no fix. They replaced the lights - told me headlight was broken which was strange because it didn't look broken to me (no accidents). They can't seem to diagnose why this is happening. Any ideas?
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Roadster Low beam headlights don't work
- Thread starter Laweinberger
- Start date
wiztecy
Active Member
I'm lost with what you're trying to say... First, you said that your headlights didn't work and its in the shop. They replaced the lights but you didn't thinking see / think they were broken? Then you said something about a low beam indicator... There's only a high beam indicator on cars, the blue light.
Please clarify you root problem so the answers will be right on target rather than bouncing around the issue and creating a rat-hole which doesn't help anyone.
Please clarify you root problem so the answers will be right on target rather than bouncing around the issue and creating a rat-hole which doesn't help anyone.
Henry, if the 12V switchpack board had failed, and that was the reason for the OPs headlight problems, wouldn't their be an error message displayed in the VDS?
Not necessarily. It depends on what failed on the board. It's strange because it doesn't sound like any headlight failure I've ever heard of (in a Roadster). I don't know what Tesla has done to diagnose the problem. eg. are they getting voltage at the fuse? At the headlights? At the wiring harness? I think each low beam is on a separate circuit for safety so it's an interesting clue that both quit working at the same time.
Low beam indicator was on display
Intermittently headlights worked
Took to dealer
Dealer replaced bulb - said it was broken though no apparent damage to headlight cover
Still didn't work
Dealer doesn't have much knowledge working w/Roadster so mechanics have difficult time diagnosing problem
Returned to dealer for 2nd fix. Can't remember what they did 2nd time (I'm not w/invoice to articulate better at time of this reply
2nd fix didn't work
Dealer picking up car this week for 3rd attempt to fix low beam headlights but not really knowing more today than 1st 2x so no real strategy
Roadster is 2011 2.5
Found this in web from 2010:
Photo: Flickr, CC
Only for Roadsters v. 2.0 and 2.5
Tesla Motors has just announced a voluntary recall of 439 electric Roadsters from the 2.0 and 2.5 series. This comes after a "single case in which a chafing power cable led to a short, smoke and possibly a fire." The 1.5 models do not have the auxiliary power cable, and so they aren't included in the recall. The cars that aren't affected can be identified by their ID numbers which end in "500″ or lower.
Photo: Flickr, CC
Only for Roadsters v. 2.0 and 2.5
Tesla Motors has just announced a voluntary recall of 439 electric Roadsters from the 2.0 and 2.5 series. This comes after a "single case in which a chafing power cable led to a short, smoke and possibly a fire." The 1.5 models do not have the auxiliary power cable, and so they aren't included in the recall. The cars that aren't affected can be identified by their ID numbers which end in "500″ or lower.
By "dealer" do you mean a Tesla Motors Sevice Center or a third party shop?
Tesla does not have any "dealers".
wiztecy
Active Member
High beam indicator right? There's no low beam indicator unless you're thinking the inverse of how that indicator works. The recall you mentioned is unrelated.
If the high beam indicator is always on when the car is turned on, (do the lights have to be on or can the be off for this to happen?), it typically means there's a bad ground in the system and its finding its way through the indicator light. This can be in many places, instrument cluster, headlight switch, high beam switch, dimmer switch, harness / connections at the light source, and as Henry mentioned possibly even at the switchpack since that regulates your 12V system.
The service center needs to be very systematic when debugging these kinds of issues, I just hope they don't charge you too much for their time 'learning' for themselves on how to discover the issue.
wiztecy
Active Member
Ok, that's clearer now. In that case its most likely the wiring harness that's inside the passenger side light since they already replaced the bulb or the contacts where the bulb meets isn't good. Its rather easy using a multimeter to isolate the issue.
This is what's on display and lights don't illuminate. Hooefully they will figure it out. If not my case will be escalated to their regional office. Thx for your input.
I'll let u know what happens. Maybe 3rd times a charm. I'll share your input w/them.
I'll let u know what happens. Maybe 3rd times a charm. I'll share your input w/them.
wiztecy
Active Member
Good luck with the 3rd try.
So when you say "lights don't illuminate" are you saying *just* the passenger low beam does not turn on? Or are you saying that both the drivers and passenger side don't function / turn on? Also both or one side for the high beams still work? Also do your tail lights, parking lights, etc still function.
I still wouldn't rule out a bad switchpack like Henry said, things running off of a 12 volt power supply become very flaky when that's on its way out since that's where all that goes though.
So when you say "lights don't illuminate" are you saying *just* the passenger low beam does not turn on? Or are you saying that both the drivers and passenger side don't function / turn on? Also both or one side for the high beams still work? Also do your tail lights, parking lights, etc still function.
I still wouldn't rule out a bad switchpack like Henry said, things running off of a 12 volt power supply become very flaky when that's on its way out since that's where all that goes though.
pharma5
Roadster F#25, Model 3 #36xx
Wiring harness sounds very convincing to my non-expert ears. (Post #6 says this is a 2011 2.5...thought these just have 12V battery and no switchpack...?)
wiztecy
Active Member
All Roadsters have a switch pack, it 'switches' or provides the 12V to all of the components that run or cosume 12v such as lights, door locks, etc. from the 400V battery source of the ESS. What you're thinking of APS or auxiliary power source, 1.5's use sheet 1/2 for that where the 2.x's have the external 12v battery which does not serve the same purpose as a switch pack. This was mandated by the Federal Government for all production EVs as a redundant means to supply voltage to your flashing lights, headlights, and other components in the event that the main ESS system has failed.
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pharma5
Roadster F#25, Model 3 #36xx
I might be wrong but I think you're confusing the switchpack with the DC to DC converter. I don't think the switchpack is a switching voltage regulator. I think it manages many of the 12v accessories such as the headlights.
Tesla had issues with the switchpacks in the 1.5s and a lot of them were replaced. Most of those problems were sorted out by the time they released the 2.5. The 12v battery in the 2.x cars is almost never used if your car is wired properly. You can sit in your car for hours on end with the key off using the radio/nav/dvd etc and all it will do is use a little juice from your main ESS because the APS remains on until a couple minutes after you remove the key and close the door.
wiztecy
Active Member
I think (actually know) your right Henry and thanks, the Lotus also has a switch pack and doesn't "switch" a higher voltage to a lower since the Lotus doesn't have 400 volts 
And as you indicated, the DC to DC converter does the job to convert the 400v down to 12v.
Reading up on the functionality of what the Lotus switch pack does, it appears its packed with a bunch of relays, so possibly its the main relay / 12v management system for the vehicle, and the switching is the relay part of the system switching the 12v current to different 12v components like lights, alarm, 12v outlet, etc:
Switch pack module: any problems? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
and how to repair the Lotus one (which I believe is different than Tesla's):
Switch Pack Module Repair -- How to - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
And as you indicated, the DC to DC converter does the job to convert the 400v down to 12v.
Reading up on the functionality of what the Lotus switch pack does, it appears its packed with a bunch of relays, so possibly its the main relay / 12v management system for the vehicle, and the switching is the relay part of the system switching the 12v current to different 12v components like lights, alarm, 12v outlet, etc:
Switch pack module: any problems? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
and how to repair the Lotus one (which I believe is different than Tesla's):
Switch Pack Module Repair -- How to - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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