Roadster PEM failure

[Michael1227]

Ouch .. ideally it would always have to break down or intervene with a full battery.
I just got news from Tesla, it seems that one of the sheets of the battery communicates badly, which distorts all the load information.
So .. not necessarily empty the battery for me.

I hope you will manage to take charge of yours.

Can you summarize what you have done in your PEM? Change the transistors, which model you rested at the thermal interface with ceramics?

For the connections in the PEM, there are several small cables a little hiding .. for my part, I made a lot of photos before and after .. for control.

 

[Stefan T]

And try to charge in range mode

It helps if the power supply to the cooling pumps don't work

so maybe it will helps her to

 

[Rolf68]

What a nightmare

 

[DanielFriederich]

you either resign or you accept the challenge...
I will go on with it for sure

 

[ion_1]

you either resign or you accept the challenge...
I will go on with it for sure

Definitely hope you push through! it could be something minor especially as the core electronics were not changed
significantly and you and your team are comfortable with the PEM architecture.

 

[racevpr]

thanks for the advice, yes checked but maybe cable inside the PEM not plugged in... will recheck!

The error ID:264 BSM: PEM cable fault is due to an issue with the HVIL, High-Voltage Interlock Loop, that runs through the PEM. The switch mentioned by PV-EV on the TMC forums is always the first thing to check. That switch makes, or breaks, the HVIL, so make sure the lid to the PEM is screwed on completely before starting up the vehicle. If the latter does not resolve the issue, then get a hard drive jumper and put it on J10 to bypass the switch and ensure the circuit is completed.

Let us know how that works for you and best of luck recovering your PEM and battery. Contact us if you have any further questions.

 

[Tovar_Vanek]

You are a brave soul Daniel. Cracking open a PEM takes guts. You have been an inspiration.

I hope it resolves without a $10K PEM replacement.

 

[DanielFriederich]

You are a brave soul Daniel. Cracking open a PEM takes guts. You have been an inspiration.

Well either brave or just dump... Still haven't made a decision yet

 

[wiztecy]

I say keep going down the brave part. I'm sure you can find an answer and solution to all of this. We're all rooting for you as long as you have the patience and volts left in your pack! Thank you for documenting and a pioneer in respect to the PEM.

 

[DanielFriederich]

Update:
Roadster is at SEC Frankfurt, replacement PEM will arrive next week... than we will know what the real troublermaker is

 

[DanielFriederich]

PEM arrived from US... SEC found when opening the connector box one battery cable grounded by coincident... After fixing the car charges and runs fine with my overworked PEM...
On one hand I would like to choke myself to de...th for being such an dumbass not seeing that in the first place by myself... but I am glad not having to spend the 10 grand for a "new" PEM....
Still theres a PEM / Motor FAN problem showed by VDS but I think thats a cable problem. Asked SEC to fix it... Going to pick up Roadster next week at SEC and give it a hard time for the IGBTs....
Thanks to all here for your support; next weeks I will try to set up a guide for the IGBT / insulation fix.

 

[Jonathanm]

Bravo Man - well done - forget about the stupid connector done wrong - it's proof of concept that these PEM's can be repaired by us as we were hoping!
Wow that's a relief.
Great work Daniel!

 

[ion_1]

Wow, what a relief! Fantastic news! Now back to the IGBT experiment

 

[Stefan T]

That's not bad to fix it with out spending lot of money, good done

 

[wiztecy]

Great job Daniel! Was a fun and interesting journey and glad it ended well. Also nice seeing the honesty from the Tesla Service Center and to report back to you that you didn't need to drop 10k on something you really didn't need. Thanks for putting the time in to document this though.

 

[DanielFriederich]

ok... some days of really pushing my baby to the limits... PEM works... Temp never in yellow or red (not above 50 deg. C). When accelerating temp of PEM immediately goes up a few degrees and down when stress on the IGBTs is over.... From what I can see and tell those alloy oxide stripes are a good replacement for the original insulation....
Still havent had the time to start the documentation... but havent forgotten it!

 

[ion_1]

ok... some days of really pushing my baby to the limits... PEM works... Temp never in yellow or red (not above 50 deg. C). When accelerating temp of PEM immediately goes up a few degrees and down when stress on the IGBTs is over.... From what I can see and tell those alloy oxide stripes are a good replacement for the original insulation....
Still havent had the time to start the documentation... but havent forgotten it!

Must be great to be back on the road. Clearly, at least all is at least functioning normally. It's good that you
can now push it during the summer months so to establish a true comfort level with the rebuild.
Keep us updated once in a while, it was really great following your journey as you addressed a solution for this chronic PEM issue.
I guess a successful end to this will be 10 years from now when your PEM is still cranking along.
Just make sure Tesla gives you your modified one back when you get a 3.0 battery upgrade and PEM update.

 

[DanielFriederich]

after more than 1.000 km on the overworked PEM:
Temp of PEM will raise immediately when you push the "More-Eletrons-Please-Pedal" to the ground in a normal range up to approx. 47 C. 0 1 driving and above 30 C environment it went up to even 50 (still not in the first yellow bar) and it will fall fast too... so my assumption is that the heat transfer from the transistor over the alloy oxide plates to the cooling plates is way better than before... until now... Car runs like a charm (so happy!)

 

[ML Auto]

.. so my assumption is that the heat transfer from the transistor over the alloy oxide plates to the cooling plates is way better than before... until now... Car runs like a charm (so happy!)

I would almost think just the opposite. The temp sensor is on the heat sink, and if you were transferring heat more efficiently to the heat sink the temps would be higher at that point, since you didn't do anything to increase the cooling effect from the blower.

 

[DanielFriederich]

They are higher than before! in fact almost 10 Celsius!