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We replace the internal fan when we refurbish PEMs; the part number is 3108NL-04W-B30-P00.
Unless they experience atomized aluminum or develop a precession from a bad bearing, then they are likely fine. It is a mechanical part that can wear over time, but a year is playing it too safe.
Now its time for my upgrade of the PEM. Got 909 DCM HW: PhaseB Low Side Desat Fault. What I can understand from this thread is that I need new isolation in the PEM.
@hallvardr: where did you buy the stripes you used? Still working good?
Why not make the stripes larger? From images of DanielFriederich post #314 it looks like the problem was close to the edge of the stripe. It also looks that they could be a few mm larger without touching the screws or the tempsensor.
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warden_clyffe
Member
...I allways use KERATHERM 86/600 stripe in 1mm thickness. you can buy it in bigger sheets f.ex. at CONRAD ELECTRONICS and cut them to the right size with a cutter-knife. I cut them 30mm by 120mm. Results are perfect.
http://www.kerafol.com/fileadmin/us...ttherm/Kerafol_Datenblaetter_86_600_03-18.pdf
http://www.kerafol.com/fileadmin/us...ttherm/Kerafol_Datenblaetter_86_600_03-18.pdf
I am currently upgrading my 2010 roadster to the new battery and was told I need a $7900 PEM replacement due to heat problems over the years as described above. I had intermittent problems which I can document with emails and service checks while the car was still under warranty, having gotten an extended warranty (3 or 5 years, can't recall) negotiated in when I originally purchased the car. Has anyone had any success in getting Tesla to own up to their design flaw and replace these under warranty?
hjr
#1291
Good luck with Tesla doing anything at all! They have moved on. Did you have any success?
I will read this thread from start to finish shortly as there might be useful info BUT I just want to vent for a couple lines here. I'm a Tesla person - believe in the 'mission'. I own a 2013 Model S and now 4 Roadsters. Yes 4. Call me crazy. A Canadian one that I drive #1116, a Signature series one #57 that I can't import until 2024 (due to Tesla not making the couple parts for Canada compliance). So that one is stored in US. I have also imported #571 and #703 with intent to sell in Canada as there aren't enough in Canada. And IF I make a couple bucks on those deals then that will help pay for 5 years of storage of #57. Now I've recently had 2 of them #1116 and #571 in to Tesla Service for annual check ups and PEM cleanings. As I'm now reading, maybe a PEM Tesla cleaning might be the worst thing you can do. Based on both PEMs failing within a month or two of said service. I know the PEMs are all coming to the end of their life span but the Tesla service centres can clean them but they can't do the logical thing that would involve servicing them properly and replacing the wearing transitors, insulation, etc. I think I will be starting to collect data on this - collect the numbers of failures with time frames after service.
Who is taking care of the battery while it waits? Charging and driving it regularly?
That would be asking too much of the service center technicians who don't have the right equipment, parts, or training. That would be the job of remanufacturing, yet even they don't do that as far as I'm aware.
Get log files along the way too.
Canadian compliance has been done by someone, but BC is not the easiest to work with. if you can get KM speedo's the lighting is easy. The airbag is 1 sticker that you can print yourself. Just a thought
We’ve had Tesla replace two PEMs, both under warranty. The last failure I fixed myself. It mostly boils down to one thing, CONNECTORS. Seems like many PEMs fail right after being serviced. The service center won’t service the connectors. Just my two cents from my own observations.
not to worry #57 is in good hands and only a 3 hour drive away - a monthly or semi monthly drive down to Seattle allows me to take her out for a good run.
and yes exactly re logical thing - I don't blame the 'techs' / parts replacers - looks like I will now become a PEM tech - will brush up on my soldering skills
Re Canadian compliance I actually think it's the key fobs that is the issue (as the speedo looks on the surface to be the same (maybe connectors are different from 2008 versus 2010/2011 model years)). the fobs are definitely different between those years.
and yes I'd like to know how many folks' PEMs have failed shortly after service (via either Tesla SC or folks doing it themselves - some forum reading makes me think the number is high and perhaps as dirty PEM might be better than a cleaned version - which makes no sense but .... - still love the cars but currently they are nice looking paperweights
and yes exactly re logical thing - I don't blame the 'techs' / parts replacers - looks like I will now become a PEM tech - will brush up on my soldering skills
Re Canadian compliance I actually think it's the key fobs that is the issue (as the speedo looks on the surface to be the same (maybe connectors are different from 2008 versus 2010/2011 model years)). the fobs are definitely different between those years.
and yes I'd like to know how many folks' PEMs have failed shortly after service (via either Tesla SC or folks doing it themselves - some forum reading makes me think the number is high and perhaps as dirty PEM might be better than a cleaned version - which makes no sense but .... - still love the cars but currently they are nice looking paperweights
Mark77a
Member
I agree most PEM failures seem to be due to damage of the connectors - ie sight misalignment when pushing back in - which can damage or push back pins - resulting in poor connections, overheating etc etc.
Reconnecting th e plugs is normally done 'blind' as they re under the PEM so these mistakes are easy to make.
The PEM only needs disconnecting to clean it - so obvious suggestion is to stop dirt / dust from entering in th 1st pace.
My solution to this is a large area filter in wheel arches (small area filters restrict flow and may add to any over heating IMHO).
There are several solutions. I'll plug mine
... as it uses large area filter, to avoid limiting air flow (air con filter from places like publix)Roadster Rear Blower Maintenance
However eventually even small particles of dust will get into the PEM and it, and the fans, pipes, and motor cooling fins will need to be cleaned out eg with a air line etc.
QUESTION: is it possible to remove the rear luggage liner, lower under floor shield, and maybe (if necessary) the rear bumper (sorry fender) to access the PEM .
OK this is more work, but cleaning the PEM without unplugging it (or having an inexperienced person unplug it) ... would prevent many PEM problems.
If someone can explain how to access PEM, in place, as above, I'd be happy to try this and even 3D print / cnc tools to make in-situ PEM cleaning possible and easier.
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Tesla did create a snow dam that goes around the cooling fans. It's simply three walls that surround the fans and provide protection from snow. It could be easier to get one of those and add filters to it. In fact, we have a machine shop that could recreate them too, and add slots, holes, and pem nuts for the filters.There are several solutions. I'll plug mine
It can be done, and it makes servicing the PEM much easier. The only drawback would be getting access to the cooling duct for the PEM. You need to remove it from the underside of the PEM to blow it out from the inside, and in some case wipe down in the inside lining with a wet rag to pick up the dust/debris.
The process of removing the parts around the rear of the Roadster is straight forward. Start from the bottom and work your way up. The rear wheels will need to be removed to get access to the wheel arches, and then the under body panel comes off. Then, the rear bumper, and the trunk bin. The trunk bin bolts are on the inside of the trunk under the small side carpet panels.
I have a Roadster I can provide pictures or instructions if you run into any issues along the way.
Mark77a
Member
Thanks @petergrub ..
This gives me confidence to access the pem from below - and even lift it slightly on the LHS to access the cooling duct, but without disconnecting the electrical connectors..
And YES .. if you or anyone else have pictures of PEM in place, but with Rear fender/bumper and Luggage trunk removed ..
That would be super helpful. (all I can find is as below)
This gives me confidence to access the pem from below - and even lift it slightly on the LHS to access the cooling duct, but without disconnecting the electrical connectors..
And YES .. if you or anyone else have pictures of PEM in place, but with Rear fender/bumper and Luggage trunk removed ..
That would be super helpful. (all I can find is as below)
You can clean the PEM without disconnecting anything. With the car up in the air, you can remove the cooling hose and access both the inlet and outlet ports on the PEM. The cooling air just blows across the heat sinks on the bottom of the PEM, not the internal electronics, so you can get in there with a blow gun and not worry about damaging anything.
How about the motor? Seems the SC reports needing to remove a bunch of leaves and such from both the PEM and motor at every yearly service.
One problem, however, is that the service center is constrained (condemned?) to follow "standard procedure" and remove the PEM during the annual service. So even if possible to clean everything without removing the connectors, I doubt they would even consider doing it that way.
Separately, I asked in a different thread about using DeOxit on the connectors when re-assembling stuff. I presume the right version to use is "D5", correct? I got some, and intend to try insisting they use it during this year's service (coming up after the new tires saga is resolved). I assume this should help, given that they don't mangle any of the contacts in the assembly process.
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