Roadster UMC Alternative

[TonyWilliams]

By roadster UMC project, do you mean bringing back that smoked UMC back to life? If I remember right, it was Bonnie's old UMC. If so, was the contractor the part that was burned toast? If so, Tesla must use cheap contactors in the Roadster UMC also, just like they do in the Model S UMC.

Anyway, it's very cool for you to offer these modified cables to other EV drivers, as there really isn't much choice in mobile 40A charging cables.

Yes, we need more portable 40 to 80 amp solutions. The project (of far too many projects) is to use the OPENevse modified to accept Tesla signals from the wall plug for amps. We would put that all in a cool looking box, and replace the original "brick" on either the Roadster or Model S UMC's.

 

[hcsharp]

By roadster UMC project, do you mean bringing back that smoked UMC back to life? If I remember right, it was Bonnie's old UMC. If so, was the contractor the part that was burned toast? If so, Tesla must use cheap contactors in the Roadster UMC also, just like they do in the Model S UMC.

Anyway, it's very cool for you to offer these modified cables to other EV drivers, as there really isn't much choice in mobile 40A charging cables.

They don't even use a contactor. They use a cheap relay that's not up for the task, and cheap just about everything else in that brick.

 

[qwk]

They don't even use a contactor. They use a cheap relay that's not up for the task, and cheap just about everything else in that brick.

Oh wow, didn't know that. The Roadster foundry cables were bulletproof(30A max), but it seems like everything after is really underengineered for charging continuously at 40A.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Oh wow, didn't know that. The Roadster foundry cables were bulletproof(30A max), but it seems like everything after is really underengineered for charging continuously at 40A.

I have Mike's unit all cut up in bite size morsels, and I'll try and get some pictures up of the relay, etc. There is no "fix" to the potted existing Roadster UMC box, however we can make it look just like the original with OPENevse guts. The nice looking chrome sides easily come off, as does the top graphics, and those can be remounted on the future "OPEN-UMC" unit.

As I've stated elsewhere, the process of getting a version of OPENevse to do this is already underway. I physically do not have any spare time in the short term to pursue this, but hopefully the major bits will fall into place soon.

Here's a challenge that we can all participate in; let's source a relay.

 

[TonyWilliams]

]

 

[shrink]

Wow. Tony, thanks for the pictures. I can't believe you had to cut into it like that to access the electronics. Any theories on what went wrong with it?

 

[asgard]

Another alternative is to buy a Leaf EVSE from evseupgrade.com, if you want portability.
This won't get you 40A but at least 20A @ 240V, approximately 5kW.
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
You will also need the The Can from hcsharp or the J1772 cable from Tesla.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Another alternative is to buy a Leaf EVSE from evseupgrade.com, if you want portability.
This won't get you 40A but at least 20A @ 240V, approximately 5kW.
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
You will also need the The Can from hcsharp or the J1772 cable from Tesla.

I actually carry the 2013 Nissan / Panasonic / EVSEupgrade.com unit in the Rav4 EV. Mine is adjustable from 6 amps to 25 amps in 1 amp increments. I actually had to use the 6 amp setting when I kept popping the breaker on 12 amps, then 8 amps. At 6 amps, the breaker held in there, and gave me the extra two or three miles I needed over about 2 hours!!!

Of course, I also carry a JESLA(tm) 40 amp portable, that is also adjustable to 12 amps, 16 amps and 24 amps with the appropriate Tesla wall plug.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow. Tony, thanks for the pictures. I can't believe you had to cut into it like that to access the electronics. Any theories on what went wrong with it?

Unfortunately, it looks like the relay was OK. At least there is no obvious failure. It would be near impossible for me to isolate the failure, and probably a waste of time since we can't repair it, due to the components being "potted".