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Roof rack intended to be permanent install?
- Thread starter noshadow
- Start date
Based on the install steps it doesn't seem like something you would want to remove and install as needed.
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
If your concern is the effect on the range, I saw some videos, I think from i1Tesla,
testing the effect of the roof rack on the energy consumption and it was not noticeable.
There was even a test with a smaller lower consumption with the roof rack.
But if you have some accessories installed on top of the rack, like for snowboard,
then it might be advisable to remove the accessory or the full rack if simpler.
Note: In the case of the model 3, you cannot easily put the rack into the trunk
because of the width of the trunk, so you need to fold the rear seat to carry them.
However, I wonder it it is possible to carry them in the Model Y trunk, because the Model Y
provides some room on both side behind the wheelhouse, so you could carry them
inside the trunk parallel to the rear bumper?
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I measured the roof racks and couldn't see how they would fit in the back. I agree that they aren't "easy" to get on and off but you can do it in 10 minutes or so. What I have noticed though that I don't like is that the wind off of the roof racks make a whining noise at around 40-50mph. I haven't driven on the highway yet with them but I'll have to make a point of hitting 60+ somewhere and I'll report back.
i'll be nervous to put anything on top of that glass roof. Especially a bike, one slip and it could be a couple grand mistake.
Johnny Vector
Member
I have the roof rack, and it is totally removable!
Based on the instructions, I was expecting it to be difficult to get on and off. The Model Y replaces a Honda Fit, for which I had a Rhino-Rack hook-over-the-door-frame type with square bars that sang in the wind (and it cost more than the Tesla rack!) Turns out the MY rack is easier to get on and off than the one for the Fit. With the caveat that I've only cycled it on and off the car once (I just got the MY last week!), I found it to be way easier than it appears from the instructions.
In case it helps anyone else, here are some details:
The first time you put it on, read the instructions carefully. It comes with everything you need, including the one hex wrench and even a measuring tape to put it in the right place. But the instructions are a little unclear. Read through the whole thing and dry-fit so you see what you're doing, and it'll go great.
The basic design is that each foot has a flat metal hook that slips under the glass and hook into a hidden slot in the metal support frame that lives under the glass. It comes with four slightly sticky clear pieces of, uh, tape I guess, which serve as both a scuff preventer and an arrow to show where the hook goes. The instructions specify the location to the millimeter, but in reality you only need to hit it within ±5 mm. There's a little plastic tool they give you to pull back the rubber seal and then you just hook the metal hook under it, slip the foot base over the hook, drop on the crossbar and tighten up a really beefy cast nut they provide. The lock then prevents the nut from turning, which secures it against both theft and working free from vibrations. Very clever.
To remove it, just unlock, undo the wingnuts, and take all the pieces off the roof. The metal hooks are completely loose when not clamped by the wingnut, so they're easy to remove. The only part that needs to stay on the roof is the bits of clear tape, which if you put them on carefully are almost invisible. Takes maybe 2 minutes to install or remove.
The crossbars can fit in the rear hatch area, although their shape makes them take up more space than if they were flat. I put all the pieces in a little bag of tools I carry around, that lives in the shallow under-floor area in the rear. The whole thing is really nice.
One of the pieces, I forget which now, has "Yakima" stamped on it, so I guess they are the OEM.
Based on the instructions, I was expecting it to be difficult to get on and off. The Model Y replaces a Honda Fit, for which I had a Rhino-Rack hook-over-the-door-frame type with square bars that sang in the wind (and it cost more than the Tesla rack!) Turns out the MY rack is easier to get on and off than the one for the Fit. With the caveat that I've only cycled it on and off the car once (I just got the MY last week!), I found it to be way easier than it appears from the instructions.
In case it helps anyone else, here are some details:
The first time you put it on, read the instructions carefully. It comes with everything you need, including the one hex wrench and even a measuring tape to put it in the right place. But the instructions are a little unclear. Read through the whole thing and dry-fit so you see what you're doing, and it'll go great.
The basic design is that each foot has a flat metal hook that slips under the glass and hook into a hidden slot in the metal support frame that lives under the glass. It comes with four slightly sticky clear pieces of, uh, tape I guess, which serve as both a scuff preventer and an arrow to show where the hook goes. The instructions specify the location to the millimeter, but in reality you only need to hit it within ±5 mm. There's a little plastic tool they give you to pull back the rubber seal and then you just hook the metal hook under it, slip the foot base over the hook, drop on the crossbar and tighten up a really beefy cast nut they provide. The lock then prevents the nut from turning, which secures it against both theft and working free from vibrations. Very clever.
To remove it, just unlock, undo the wingnuts, and take all the pieces off the roof. The metal hooks are completely loose when not clamped by the wingnut, so they're easy to remove. The only part that needs to stay on the roof is the bits of clear tape, which if you put them on carefully are almost invisible. Takes maybe 2 minutes to install or remove.
The crossbars can fit in the rear hatch area, although their shape makes them take up more space than if they were flat. I put all the pieces in a little bag of tools I carry around, that lives in the shallow under-floor area in the rear. The whole thing is really nice.
One of the pieces, I forget which now, has "Yakima" stamped on it, so I guess they are the OEM.
Johnny Vector
Member
As I say below, it's easier than any other removable roof rack I've had. Here's a quick run-through of how to attach the rack, in case you don't want to sit through a 10 minute video in which the first minute is spent making the same penis joke multiple times. (I gave up at that point myself.)
Slip the weatherstrip retractor under the weatherstrip and retract it:
Slide the hook under the retractor:
Jiggle the hook a bit to make sure it's centered in the receiving slot. It's easy to feel the ends of the slot:
Put the foot base over it. Notice the little image of the car on the base, indicating which base goes in which location.
After doing the same on the other side, drop the crossbar over the hook threads
Finger-tighten wingnut. Leave that little vertical mark pointing toward you, as you see here. That really only matters after the next step, but it's easier to see in this photo.
Tighten with the hex wrench to ~3 N-m of torque. That's about 25 inch-pounds if, like me, you're still living in a backwards country. The wrench is about 4" long, so that's ~6 pounds of force on the end of the wrench. I found one half turn seems to work great. Leave it with the mark facing out.
Lock the lock, snap on the cover, and you're done.
For me, it takes about a minute and a half per crossbar.
To remove, reverse the procedure. Just be careful not to drop the crossbar on the glass! The hardest part, for me, was getting the plastic snap-on cover off. My solution is to pry it off with the key via the slot on the top of the crossbar. Takes almost no force, so I'm not worried about bending the key.
I'm still gonna be nervous about placing those 2x4s on the rack, and taking them off. And making sure my tie-downs don't slip and crash into the glass. But this is an SUV, dammit! I'm gonna utilize it.
OMG this is amazing. Thank you so much. That was the clearest photo/description steps I've seen.
It looks like it's something that I can take on/off when needed, rather than having it permanently on.
I don't expect to put it on/off daily, just when I know a trip is coming up and I'll need it. This seems simple enough. I only worry that after awhile, that cover will get loose from all the prying on/off.
SoundDaTrumpet
Member
The Tesla rack seems very involved and time consuming (if you include the bike mounts). I remove the feet/towers, bars, and fork mounts in one fell swoop on the Subaru Outback (landing pads installed). [Advise against fork mount for Model Y! Dropping forks and glass not good.] Racks come off for car washes (yes machine washes). Fortunately the Tesla Model Y towing option is indeed a 2" receiver!
Johnny Vector
Member
Thanks, glad it helped! I suspect those covers can take on the order of a hundred removals before they get loose. I'll be doing the same thing with mine; just putting it on occasionally. Probably once a year, to be precise, when I go to Maine and (always) need to purchase some wood for repairs. Nature really hates one-season cabins.... If I need something around home, I'll use the Bolt.
Also, anyone who thinks getting the MY rack on and off is difficult oughta try the Bolt. I bought a Thule rack for it, and not only does it require removing 8 bolts in a difficult location, there's nothing keeping anyone else from undoing those bolts too. Shouldn't have bothered purchasing the lock cylinders. The Tesla rack is much more reasonable (and $100 cheaper, too).
SoundDaTrumpet
Member
I just posted my experience with platform bike racks, and will be reverting back to roof racks. At least I know what to expect when the inevitable happens.
1. Set aside $1600 for replacement. (Self-insure)
2. Avoid using roof rack for a month prior to any family road trip. (Replacement time)
3. Assuming the N+1 rule was followed. N+1-1 still means there a bike to ride unless the entire stable was on the roof of the car. I am learning never buy a bike where you can’t afford to buy two of them.
Sorry to see what happened. The bicycle(s) included.
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fritzner
Member
Has anyone seen any information on how much of a range hit you get when you add a roof top storage box?
I'm not talking one of those old white boxy ones from Sears ... something relatively modern and aerodynamic.
I'm not talking one of those old white boxy ones from Sears ... something relatively modern and aerodynamic.
I've heard to expect up to a 25% hit on range. Not sure if that's totally true just yet. I have my roof racks ordered now, and going to setup an appointment to get them installed by the SC (so that if there's any issues with a roof crack, it's not on me). I'll either use my old Subaru box (looks like a Thule Pulse L) if it fits, or I'll get a new Thule Motion XT L. I'm then going on a pretty long trip with the box at the end of January (800 miles one way) that I've done in the past without a box. I'll let you know what happens (though to be fair, it will be much colder, snowing at times).
On the install make sure the glass roof sits below the rails. When the pads are tightened there should be no contact with the glass. There should be gap of 1/32”-1/16” between the underside of the pad and the glass. If the pad is on the glass it will crack when you tighten it down. For my install I hand tightened the nut and used the wrench to align the nut with the lock. About a 1/2 turn. Plenty tight as the rack is very secure.
I plan to leave the rack on. I like the look. Noise to me isn’t an issue.
I plan to leave the rack on. I like the look. Noise to me isn’t an issue.
Mr. Decaf
Member
Thank you for the pictures and instructions. Well done.
Catbiscuits
Member
Yes, that really helped. I had an early rack so the OP’s experience had me concerned but it is definitely an easy install.
Glad to read this - I would not want to take the (albeit small) range hit in winter and hear the extra noise - I only kayak a few months in the summer, so prob would put it on and take off once a year max.
The stickers put on the car before applying the roof bars, will these last even if the roof bars is taken off for extended periods of time.
If not, can these be bought seperately.
If i for example only need roof bars a couple of weeks every year for when i go on holiday, and take the roof bars off, when i get home, will these stickers still be there and usable, next year when i go to put the roof racks on.
If not, can these be bought seperately.
If i for example only need roof bars a couple of weeks every year for when i go on holiday, and take the roof bars off, when i get home, will these stickers still be there and usable, next year when i go to put the roof racks on.
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