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Root FAQ

jammi

12/2013 Model S P85
Nov 25, 2021
11
6
Finland
Rooting can be done concurrent with Tesla access if the doer is talented. But most ppl who have warranty choose to not, reasonably so. Inevitably their eMMC will fail and the more MCUs they buy from Tesla, the more eMMCs they'll have fail. The only lasting solution is to upgrade that eMMC chip. And you might as well root it in the process.
They have the free recall thing for the eMMC though, and they upgrade the chip to 64GB as well. Regardless, what'd be a good forum to learn about rooting? I'm very familiar with Linux per se. Does it involve desoldering the eMMC and mounting it for changes on another device, or are there less intrusive options available?
 
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Can you disconnect something on the car to prevent them from disabling supercharging? Like when you get a salvage car and it still has supercharging.
You may be able to do this through the root process. Most likely the "dealer" that sold you the car with SC active has rooted the car and as long as you don't update the software you should (in theory) fly below the radar.
 
You may be able to do this through the root process. Most likely the "dealer" that sold you the car with SC active has rooted the car and as long as you don't update the software you should (in theory) fly below the radar.
Its not rooted. I purchased straight from the insurance auction. I avoided updates/wifi. I even disconnected the antenna in the mirror and they still disabled it. It was working fine before. I was thinking next time take out the sim or some fuse. Im not sure how they get through.
 
Its not rooted. I purchased straight from the insurance auction. I avoided updates/wifi. I even disconnected the antenna in the mirror and they still disabled it. It was working fine before. I was thinking next time take out the sim or some fuse. Im not sure how they get through.
That makes sense...the insurance auction would not take the time to root the car. If your software is not the most recent update there are people that can help...especially if you have a MCU1
 
There are 2 maroon cell antenna door plugs, one at drivers mirror, one at passengers mirror.
I prefer to pull the MCU slightly out of the dash and disconnect the main maroon cell antenna plug (upper right, near the glovebox) right from the back of the MCU. I feel like that's a better signal prevention method, just in case they can pick up signals thru the length of the cords, like how headphone cords become the antenna of a pocket FM radio.

Which vehicle model do you have? A 3 might have supercharger-to-car direct communication to disable supercharging, but my older S does not have that, and is completely isolated since I disconnected cellular. Try this method below, and let us know if it works :D
Luckyashman said:
Get a wall mount and charge at home. As for supercharging “sell/transfer” car using app to another individual (wife’s email) and your pay as you go supercharging will work again until Tesla turns it off again a week or so. You can tell if you have SC when you navigate to SC and look at details and see how much they charge per kWh (not just idle fees). Takes maybe 5 mins to do transfer
cleverscreenam said:
So a Tesla salvage vehicle owner can transfer to a new email, verify they have pay SC available on the car screen, then pull the MCU out of the dash and disconnect the cellular antenna (maroon plug upper right, closest to glovebox), and keep supercharging forever?
Luckyashman said:
That I do not know. I thought about that when trying to find a solution. My initial guess is that to connect to SC it has to recognize the car and who to charge/credit card for the electricity. I don’t think it can do that if you disconnect cellular antenna. The solution I proposed is a workaround and takes a few minutes using their mobile app and an alternate email. If you want a more permanent solution there are some people that root software but for me I now charge at home mainly and only use SC for long trips. I did use the transfer thing for a month or two before I installed my Tesla wall charger. I guess you can try your solution but my workaround allows you to still get software updates and such.
cleverscreenam said:
You can add a credit card to your online tesla website account (same place where you can transfer the email address) and any supercharger costs will automatically bill to that card. (at least on my old model S it did)
 
There are 2 maroon cell antenna door plugs, one at drivers mirror, one at passengers mirror.
I prefer to pull the MCU slightly out of the dash and disconnect the main maroon cell antenna plug (upper right, near the glovebox) right from the back of the MCU. I feel like that's a better signal prevention method, just in case they can pick up signals thru the length of the cords, like how headphone cords become the antenna of a pocket FM radio.

Which vehicle model do you have? A 3 might have supercharger-to-car direct communication to disable supercharging, but my older S does not have that, and is completely isolated since I disconnected cellular. Try this method below, and let us know if it works :D
I got a older model s with mcu1 and free supercharging. Its my 3rd salvage one from the auction. I thought I can prevent them getting it this time but they still got me. I thought it was just one antenna in the driver's mirror. I didnt know about the second one. Supercharging worked for a couple weeks after the auction. They usually dont block it for months after but looks like theyre getting quicker. Now I'll have to find someone to root it. So pulling the cable straight out of the mcu worked for you? How long has that been working? And you have no signal at all now? I noticed mine still had a weak internet connection so I thought my way wouldn't work. I thought it was from the bit of cable going from the mcu to the door. Any other issues doing it your way? App access or something? Your way is probably easier than pulling the sim so i kinda wanna try it next time. Thanks for the help. Im trying to learn how these crooks work. This tesla i just got wasnt even in an accident. The suspension was barely damaged.
 
I got a older model s with mcu1 and free supercharging. Its my 3rd salvage one from the auction. I thought I can prevent them getting it this time but they still got me. I thought it was just one antenna in the driver's mirror. I didnt know about the second one. Supercharging worked for a couple weeks after the auction. They usually dont block it for months after but looks like theyre getting quicker. Now I'll have to find someone to root it. So pulling the cable straight out of the mcu worked for you? How long has that been working? And you have no signal at all now? I noticed mine still had a weak internet connection so I thought my way wouldn't work. I thought it was from the bit of cable going from the mcu to the door. Any other issues doing it your way? App access or something? Your way is probably easier than pulling the sim so i kinda wanna try it next time. Thanks for the help. Im trying to learn how these crooks work. This tesla i just got wasnt even in an accident. The suspension was barely damaged.
I didn't pull any cables...connection and everything still works.
 

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