Here is some data on the combined wear of about 4500 miles on sticker Toyo tires with a factory alignment. Not seeing anything too crazy, but wanted to rotate my tires and collect some datapoints. There is going to be some wiggle room on the measurements, but I tried to measure in similar locations.
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Rotated my wheels and took rear tire wear measurements after 4500 miles
- Thread starter ngng
- Start date
Rice&Curry
Member
I think the OEM wheels on MX is 9" in the front and 9.5" in the rear. I had my original OEM tires rotated at the tyre shop and the new technician ( covid time replacement) did not realise that that the tyres are of different size in the front and back and as soon as i picked up the car after the tyre rotation, i found that the front tyres who touch the suspension or wheel well and make a noise. when i brought the car back to the tyre shop they apologised for the mistake and did right and left rotation and not front to back rotation. So the wheel side is something to keep in mind if you go square.
Started to notice an audible whurring from the tires after the 2nd rotation. After rotating front to back the noise is much more audible. My only guess is the uneven tire wear is causing the noise. These tires are cheap, I paid $698 out the door, shipped for them. Probably won't get them in the future because of the noise. But, bang for buck they're fine in the wet and dry.
Code:
Toyo Proxes St III - 265/45/20 with 12,700 total miles.
First set of measurements taken Dec 30, 2021: 4500 miles.
Second set Aug 7, 2022 8,200 miles.
Front, inside/center/outside (mm): 5.18 / 6.98 / 5.64
Front, inside/center/outside (mm): 4.47 / 6.27 / 5.04
Rear, inside/center/outside (mm): 5.26 / 7.13 / 5.80
Rear, inside/center/outside (mm): 4.84 / 6.71 / 4.65
I tow, and my max tire pressure is 50 psi. I'll air down to 45 if I'm not towing. Door sticker doesn't mean anything once you start changing tires.
16,600 total mileage update. After noticing some wear with the last update around 8,000 miles on the tires I strung the car up and realigned the car to see if there was any wiggle room with the factory hardware. I'm back and forth on toe and camber links because the cost of the hardware. I'm not convinced the -1.5 degrees in the rear is causing problems. I have a more aggressive alignment on my GT3 and the tires last much longer.
Alignment:
Front, both:
-0.6 deg, close enough to toe 0 with a smidge out
Rear driver:
-1.6 deg camber
0.15 deg toe in
Rear passenger:
-1.6 deg camber
0.15 deg toe in
I usually drive 75mph with a bike rack on the back. Tires are always 45psi.
The look pretty good at first glance. They even looked decent every time I stuck my head on the the car to check the tire wear.
I won't post photos of the center or outside since the wear is totally fine.
Driver rear:
Passenger rear:
Alignment:
Front, both:
-0.6 deg, close enough to toe 0 with a smidge out
Rear driver:
-1.6 deg camber
0.15 deg toe in
Rear passenger:
-1.6 deg camber
0.15 deg toe in
I usually drive 75mph with a bike rack on the back. Tires are always 45psi.
The look pretty good at first glance. They even looked decent every time I stuck my head on the the car to check the tire wear.
I won't post photos of the center or outside since the wear is totally fine.
Driver rear:
Passenger rear:
What is the rear axel weight of the gt3?
Price is now $1633. If you can reduce front axel wear and tires and plan to drive it a long time think 3 more sets of tires. I think it’s probably worth the investment. Otherwise drop the the front, do an alignment and call it a day.
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