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Rotor Retention Bolt (Aftermarket Wheel Install)

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Hey all,

Hoping for some guidance. I am in the market for some aftermarket wheels and decided to buy some TSW Wheels. I was surprised to hear back from the shop I bought the wheels from saying they weren't compatible with the Model 3 even though they matched the specs of the Aero Wheels exactly (18x8.5, 5x114.3, 40 Offset, etc).

He let me know there is a "Rotor Retention Bolt" on the rotor of the Model 3 that interferes with aftermarket wheels and will prevent them from sitting flush unless there is a cavity in the back of the wheel to make space for it. He said he couldn't say for sure the wheels I bought had a large enough cavity to allow for the bolt to remain in the rotor and it would be at my risk if I bought the wheels.

Obviously, I was fairly stunned since the wheel manufacturer has pictures of the wheel I am buying on a Model 3. I did some research and found a picture of the bolt in question (see below) along with some information that says I can remove the bolt and it is not necessary but found some more info that says it can void the warranty on the Tesla if something goes wrong.

Anyone with some guidance?

img_0768-jpg.11925


img_20190430_161209-jpg.25438
 
Yup, Big Blue is correct.

Rotors are held on with pressure from the wheel against the hub in virtually all applications. Some manufacturers, like Tesla, have a bold installed to keep the rotor flushed during assembly. It doesn't do anything after the wheel is torqued down, and is completely unnecessary to the end user. I removed them to install my aftermarket winter wheels, and didn't bother putting them back on with my factory set last weekend.

And no, this will not affect your warranty. Nothing short of being declared a total loss or stolen will void a warranty, but the manufacturer will not warrant an issue caused by modifications or neglect.
 
Thank you to all for your feedback and posts. I was going to take it to Tesla to check but you've settled my mind, I'm just going to take the bolts off if the cavity on my wheels doesn't provide enough room.
 
Does anyone know the depth of the rotor bolt head? I just got my new wheels and was surprised to see they have some decent cavities in the back, looks like I have 3/4 of an inch, but need to know how long that bolt head is before I know I have to remove them without mounting the wheel to check.

Anyone know the size of the bolt?

IMG-6412.jpg
 
Does anyone know the depth of the rotor bolt head? I just got my new wheels and was surprised to see they have some decent cavities in the back, looks like I have 3/4 of an inch, but need to know how long that bolt head is before I know I have to remove them without mounting the wheel to check.

Anyone know the size of the bolt?
Not sure of the size, but it’s nowhere near 3/4 of an inch. You may be fine without removing it.

It takes all of 15 seconds, though. No big deal if you can’t.
 
Does anyone know the depth of the rotor bolt head? I just got my new wheels and was surprised to see they have some decent cavities in the back, looks like I have 3/4 of an inch, but need to know how long that bolt head is before I know I have to remove them without mounting the wheel to check.

Anyone know the size of the bolt?

IMG-6412.jpg

Rotor retaining bolt head is 6.2mm or 1/4" deep
 
Pretty sure it's mandatory for the Performance Model 3. Took mine off and went for a test drive, car was making a CLUNK every rotation of the wheel. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that was my experience. The wheels without the bolts are loose and can be rotated, which obviously isn't okay. Soon as I put the bolts back on, every was back to normal.

My solution for using 15mm & 20mm spacers was to add a small 5mm spacer to clear the bolts.
 
The clamping force of 5 M14 lugnuts torqued to 130ftlbs is immense. There’s no way your rotor was moving with a wheel on it. Just my uneducated opinion though.
That is a symptom of the hub not being machined for the Performance land. It is clamping onto the land without sitting flush, so basically the small lip is what is holding the wheel on, not the entire wheel surface. Not safe.
 
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Reactions: jmbloom_m3p
Pretty sure it's mandatory for the Performance Model 3. Took mine off and went for a test drive, car was making a CLUNK every rotation of the wheel. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that was my experience. The wheels without the bolts are loose and can be rotated, which obviously isn't okay. Soon as I put the bolts back on, every was back to normal.

My solution for using 15mm & 20mm spacers was to add a small 5mm spacer to clear the bolts.
NO! Don't know what the problem was, but those bolts are totally unnecessary; I have my winter wheels with no spacers, no centering ring and no "rotor bolts" on my M3P and all is perfect 2500 miles in.
 
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Reactions: TLLMRRJ and Luudcrs
Pretty sure it's mandatory for the Performance Model 3. Took mine off and went for a test drive, car was making a CLUNK every rotation of the wheel. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that was my experience. The wheels without the bolts are loose and can be rotated, which obviously isn't okay. Soon as I put the bolts back on, every was back to normal.

My solution for using 15mm & 20mm spacers was to add a small 5mm spacer to clear the bolts.
So in essence your adding 20mm & 25mm? Is it hard to remove the bolt? Im thinking of adding 12mm on the rear of my car but I heard only 20mm is the only choice??