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Rough ride

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Negative Temps here and still smooth. 250 miles into my new tesla I was seriously stressed and considering selling it because of the rough ride. Other than the hood and hatch adjustment I can't explain the change. But now I love my smooth ride and dream about buying another one with hw2. It was so bad in the begining that I will continue to monitor this thread. Don't believe anyone that says these cars are meant to ride rough.
 
Good to hear JP. Can you explain your exact method for adjusting the hood and hatch? I will try one more time!
I feel the same way as you did - considering selling and moving back to Audi even though it feels like I'm wasting a lot of money. Also feel stressed over something that I feel is silly to be stressed about. Wouldn't be so bad , but I sold a perfectly good car with low miles to buy this Tesla.
 
JP. Can you explain your exact method for adjusting the hood and hatch?
I did not have a method for adjusting hood and hatch other than continually opening tightening and adjusting and closing until I felt it was well aligned with the other panels. Test drove a concrete road today that used to get it bouncing, but still smooth 10 degrees F. Don't get me wrong I felt every bump but it was dampened appropriately. I noticed that today it seemed every bump was absorbed independently at each wheel. Previously it seemed that alternately the front or back was bouncing evenly across the axel until a harmonic developed and beat me with the headrest. It makes sense to me that my hatch or hood was previously bouncing and accentuating the rough ride.
 
While I've tried adjusting the hatch multiple times to get back to smooth ride, it appears that not only is my ride rough, but I'm pretty sure I'm feeling the buffeting problem now. Annoying booming pressure that hurts my ears and head. I'm getting sick and tired of this car.
 
This thread is a great example of why NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) are all lumped together. We, as humans, sort of perceive all of these things in a related way. As an example, if a suspension impact is really loud we all sort of cringe and exclaim "Dang!" when it happens even if the actual hit doesn't jostle the car or upset it that much. We associate "loud" with "rough". Rough rides or vibration often accompany noise.

Booming/Buffeting is a weird thing in these cars. It is often triggered by a suspension impact (washboard surfaces make it most obvious, whereas "single hits" are much less so). With this you get a combination of impact you feel (often minor), accompanied by the boom noise (big cabin/lots of glass for reflections/etc.) and (unfortunately) a pressure wave (the buffet). The latter is caused by a big surface "moving" up/down or in/out...like a speaker cone. The biggest surface in the Tesla is the hatch and, of course, it can move slightly. The somewhat erratic suspension firmness of the Teslas (whethere because of part number changes, too much sensitivity to oil viscosity in the dampers or whatever) simply exaggerates and triggers the booming/buffeting. As a bonus, some people are simply more sensitive to the latter. In the same car one person will declare it to be fine and another will say they can hear/feel it. If you can reduce the movement of the hatch, you may reduce boominess/buffeting and thus "feel" like the car is riding more smoothly (in fact, it is just less NVH over all).

Finally, this isn't a Tesla unique phenomenon. The current generation of GM's full size SUVs are absolutely plagued with the booming/buffeting. There are posts out there with thousands of replies in them from owners suffering with this. Many folks are getting buy backs. GM has issued a number of attempted fixes. The first involved reinforcing/repairing the roof bows under the headliner as the theory was the new thinner sheet metal (for weight savings) was flexing in an out (like an old oil can). Some report some level of success, but many do not. The current attempted fix involves welding weights to exhaust clamps and positioning the clamps at various points along the exhaust pipe to try and dampen any vibrations that are being introduced into the cabin. The vibrating exhaust is made worse by GM's fuel saving "4 cylinder" mode on the V8s which is less smooth. The "real" fix is a stiffer structure, but GM doesn't appear to have a ready answer for this (short of a redesign). A nightmare for many of these owners...they've even managed to get news coverage on this issue. Not good.

BMW owners experienced the phenomenon in the E90 generation 3 series convertible with the hard top. BMW tried to solve that problem by injecting epoxy into every nook and cranny in the hard top. Most owners reported the issue "improved", but wasn't solved. And yes, I've done a bit too much research on this. :)
 
It would be great if we could get more data points. I'd like to eventually take this data to Tesla so they have an option to try when people come in with rough ride quality complaints.
Here's a data point: 84K miles, just shy of four years. No buffeting, no rattles or squeaks, no rough ride, 19" tires with the tire pressure never, ever below the vehicle placard numbers (not counting flats).
 
Here's an update:

4 SC tech's test drove my car and found nothing wrong with the suspension. They were able to fix two of the fit and finish problems and ordered parts for the other two issues.

I went back to the mall and the sales guys were nice and allowed me to test, again, both a coil and SAS vehicle. This time, I took them back to my area where I knew exactly what my car felt like and which roads were problematic.
The coil felt the same as my car - bouncy especially on concrete pavement and worst on grooved concrete pavement. It was a little softer on the bumps, but that was probably due to the 37 psi compared to mine at 45psi.
The SAS didn't have the same bouncy problem. No harmonic type behavior. Still felt like a tight ride, but the cracks led to a "one and done" type jolt, not a constant bounce.

So here is what I concluded:

(1) There is nothing "wrong' with my car. It is in spec and the same as the other coils. So I think there is nothing that can be really fixed.
I think the coil suspension is not great - certainly worse than other cars in its price range.

(2) There are two independent issues with ride quality. See (3) and (4) below.

(3) The coil suspensions tend to lead to a bouncy ride, especially on concrete pavement that isn't perfectly smooth. A kind of harmonic effect seems to occur. This doesn't happen with SAS. I don't know why it happens, but it seems to be common.

(4) I believe the ride is overly harsh due to tire having very high pressure. I think Tesla is recommending 45 psi purely to maximize range. The load-pressure chart shows 32-35 psi is plenty to support the weight of the car + 1000 lbs for passengers and luggage.

I've since reduced the air pressure to 35 psi and the ride is much closer to normal. It is not overly harsh, just bouncy on some types of pavement. It's definitely a lot better in town on pot hole and bumpy roads. I don't see any significant drop in range either, but there might be a small amount. Maybe 5%? That would cost me an extra $25 - $50 a year in electricity and doesn't really change how often I need to stop at Super Chargers. Well worth the comfort imo.
I drove it to the mountains this weekend at 35 psi and the ride was much more tolerable. Still not great, but not so bad that I want to sell the car.

So I'm planning to stick with it for a while. Hopefully the bouncy effect will go away, as someone else reported, at around 2,000 miles.

On the positive side, I will say this car is absolutely great for mountain driving. The low CG and strong regenerative braking makes it really easy to control coming down a steep winding road. I don't feel like I have to fight the car coming down steep grades like I do with an ICE car. And with the snow tires it handles great in snow/ice from the limited amount we had this week. I couldn't tell I wasn't on dry pavement.

Hopefully AP2 will get to a decent stage so I can remember why I bought this thing in the first place!

If anyone finds anything else out, please keep us posted.
 
I've driven a coil loaner for a couple days and it felt like I was riding on a cloud compared to my SAS. It was at 45psi. I don't think dropping pressure 10psi below Tesla specs is the right answer.

I think I feel the same oscillating/harmonic effect on my car. I notice if I lean forward in the seat so that I'm not putting a lot of pressure on the seat back, the harshness is minimized, so it's like I'm continually getting punched in the back. I personally am convinced there is something not right about my car, but I don't know what I can do about it.
 
I've brought it in twice. Both times they rode with me and said it feels normal. Both times they gave me a loaner which rode much better than my car. When I tell them this, they are polite but offer nothing. They've tried loosening and retightening all suspension components and also peformed alignment twice. I asked them to replace all the air suspension to see if it would help and they refused saying in their opinion there is no problem. I've tried the low psi game, dropping it to 37psi for a week and in addition to the usual roughness there was an unsettling constant bouncing and wallowing down the road. My next hope is that somehow they will fix something when I bring it in for my 1 year service.
 
If II were you, I'd start by going to a non-Tesla mechanic for their expert opinion based on ride quality.
If they agree there is something is wrong, write something up and ask them to sign it. Pay them for their time of course.
Maybe get two or three statements from non-Tesla mechanics stating something seems wrong. Then send them in to Tesla HQ by certified mail and go from there. Pain in the read, but might be worse it.