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rust on control arm "disc" (Front right / left) - normal?
- Thread starter texas_star_TM3
- Start date
Surface rust on the edge of a bushing washer/spacer/shim. Pretty normal.
That's the end of the outer housing of the control arm bushing. It's not as serious as it looks because the important part is the bond to the rubber which naturally is protected by the rubber except on the edges. You will get the rubber peeling back over time but apparently whoever has design responsibly at Tesla thinks the control arm will need replacement for other reasons before the corrosion penetrates too far down the edges or outside.
It's probably phosphated if anything but coating those parts can be notoriously hard since they have to either be coated after bonding or have a coating that withstands the bonding process without hurting the bond itself. Either way it's surprisingly expensive and difficult compared to a similar size part so they just went with nothing or phosphate (which is basically nothing for underbody corrosion protection). It's press-fit into the arm so that will help a little on the outer side and you can see the other end poking out in the interior of the arm in other pictures of those assemblies. There's also a chance it's plated but poorly spec'ed so it failed immediately but that'd be worse than just not coating it considering the wasted effort involved.
I've done a significant amount of work on this specific type part for multiple OEM's and Tier 1's in a previous life so it's a fun exercise to see what Tesla's up to.
It's probably phosphated if anything but coating those parts can be notoriously hard since they have to either be coated after bonding or have a coating that withstands the bonding process without hurting the bond itself. Either way it's surprisingly expensive and difficult compared to a similar size part so they just went with nothing or phosphate (which is basically nothing for underbody corrosion protection). It's press-fit into the arm so that will help a little on the outer side and you can see the other end poking out in the interior of the arm in other pictures of those assemblies. There's also a chance it's plated but poorly spec'ed so it failed immediately but that'd be worse than just not coating it considering the wasted effort involved.
I've done a significant amount of work on this specific type part for multiple OEM's and Tier 1's in a previous life so it's a fun exercise to see what Tesla's up to.
wdskuk
Member
Fluid Film can attack rubber parts/ synthetic rubber parts and harden them/ make them brittle over time if you are unlucky. probably not worth risking it and spray that stuff right on the rubber / metal assembly.
hridge2020
Member
Possible dissimilar metals:
Dissimilar Metals in Contact
Hot-dip galvanized steel is well suited for use in a variety of environments and fabrications, and sometimes is placed in contact with different metals including, among others, stainless steel, aluminum, copper and weathering steel.
When two different metals are in contact in a corrosive environment, one of the metals experiences accelerated galvanic corrosion while the other metal remains galvanically protected.
Metals near each other in the galvanic series have little effect on each other. Generally, as the separation between metals in the series increases, the corroding effect on the metal higher in the series increases as well.
Relative surface areas of contacting dissimilar metals is also relevant in determining which metal exhibits accelerated corrosion. It is undesirable to have a large cathode surface in contact with a relatively small anode surface.
Galvanic corrosion occurs when two different metals are in contact in a corrosive environment: one of the metals experiences an accelerated corrosion rate. The contacting metals form a bimetallic couple because of their different affinities (or attraction) for electrons. These different affinities create an electrical potential between the two metals, allowing current to flow.
Dissimilar Metals in Contact
Hot-dip galvanized steel is well suited for use in a variety of environments and fabrications, and sometimes is placed in contact with different metals including, among others, stainless steel, aluminum, copper and weathering steel.
When two different metals are in contact in a corrosive environment, one of the metals experiences accelerated galvanic corrosion while the other metal remains galvanically protected.
Metals near each other in the galvanic series have little effect on each other. Generally, as the separation between metals in the series increases, the corroding effect on the metal higher in the series increases as well.
Relative surface areas of contacting dissimilar metals is also relevant in determining which metal exhibits accelerated corrosion. It is undesirable to have a large cathode surface in contact with a relatively small anode surface.
Galvanic corrosion occurs when two different metals are in contact in a corrosive environment: one of the metals experiences an accelerated corrosion rate. The contacting metals form a bimetallic couple because of their different affinities (or attraction) for electrons. These different affinities create an electrical potential between the two metals, allowing current to flow.
From their FAQ
FLUID FILM has no adverse effects on plastics. Caution should be used around non oil-resistant rubber goods. May cause swelling.
Would any of the rubber parts on the Model 3 where you might spray Fluid Film not be oil resistant?
Sorry to revive this folks, just picked up a Model Y LR. I bought some WD-40 spray and stay gel lubricant that is supposed to help protect from that for a year. I was thinking of spraying it onto the control arms and suspension since Tesla's can't be rust proofed. Any advise on this? Will it help deter rust?
Thank you
Thank you
No, but if it makes you feel better, go for it!
Unpainted and un-coated exposed metal parts will rust. Nothing you can do about that.
Luckily, this washer is just there to help keep the control arm bushing in place, so it doesn't need to be pretty or everlasting. It would have been nice if it was better protected, but there is no immediate danger from it slow-rusting away.
a
I appreciate the reply. I ended up only spraying one whole control arm. We'll see if it lasts the winter compared to the rest lol.
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