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Rusting brakes
- Thread starter GChatelain42
- Start date
webbah
Active Member
I typically switch to low regen and use the brakes when the weather is raining or snowing. This keeps the brakes clean. This is typical for all cars and not specific to Tesla, but with heavy regen you don't use the brakes that much and therefore you can have rust and grime buildup.
I've also made sure to treat my wheel hubs and rotors with some products that prevent rust and noises. These products are really fantastic!
First, I'm going to assume that you have the ability to service your brakes (remove the calipers, change pads, and remove rotors). It's not that difficult if you have the right tools. If not, you can always ask any mechanic to do this for you as the brakes are no different than standard cars. The only potential issue they might face is the rear electric emergency brake. To disable that and work on the rear you need to ensure the car is properly jacked up with jack stands (all 4 wheels off the ground) or make extra sure you use some wheel chucks so the car cannot roll forward and fall off the stands. Then under the service menu put the car into "towing mode" while pushing on the brake pedal. Once it is in towing mode you can disconnect the cables to the emergency parking brake and service the rear calipers.
Now on to the products:
First we have Wurth SBS Brake Treatment II. This is hard to find available for purchase for retail customers but I found it here:
www.goodspeedmotoring.com
Here is how I use it:
1) Remove rotors completely and clean with CRC Brake Cleaner or other good brake cleaner. Remove any rust on the outer edges if required using a brake caliper steel brush (don't use on the friction surface). Also remove any rust from the rotor "bell".
2) Spray the product generously to cover the entire rotor. Make sure you keep a distance of about 1-2 feet so you spray with a mist. I usually do 2 coats. Do one side covering the entire rotor including bell, friction surface and outer edges. Each coat only needs about 15 minutes to dry. Then turn the rotor over and repeat.
3) Usually good to replace the pads or clean the pads, grease the caliper pins, etc. Then remount. Take a drive and use light braking to burnish the brakes to the rotors and the aluminum treatment will oxidize and create a smooth finish to the friction surface filling in any imperfections. Rotors will be like new without any noise, squeaks, etc. Lasts 1 year. The bells will be less suseptible to rust as the treatment prevents corrosion. Note, I also spray this on the lug nuts after removing the rust from those as it is good for that too.
Second product to treat the rust that forms on the inner side of the hub, inside the hub near the main half shaft nut, and any rust that might have formed where the brake lines attach inside the wheel well to the steel fittings. Note, I should have mentioned this first but it's usually easiest to apply this product while the rotors are off the car. You do NOT want any of this on the brake calipers, pads or rotors:
Corrosion block is used on airplanes, autos, etc. It's great stuff! It's a grease though so we don't want it on the friction surfaces of the brakes as mentioned. It is fantastic though to prevent rust and corrosion on the other parts like the back of the wheel hub, front of the hub where the main wheel nut is for the half shaft, and the steel parts for the brake lines inside the wheel well. I prefer the spray can type to treat the rear of the hubs and other fittings for the brake lines. I use the grease for the front hub wheel nut area and just coat inside the cylinder after removing any existing rust. Lasts 12 months.
Make sure to use a caliper brush to remove any existing rust from the back of the hubs, etc. If it's really rusty a drill bit with steel brush attachment works wonders to remove rust. Then apply the treatment. Redo once every 12 months.
Cheers!
I've also made sure to treat my wheel hubs and rotors with some products that prevent rust and noises. These products are really fantastic!
First, I'm going to assume that you have the ability to service your brakes (remove the calipers, change pads, and remove rotors). It's not that difficult if you have the right tools. If not, you can always ask any mechanic to do this for you as the brakes are no different than standard cars. The only potential issue they might face is the rear electric emergency brake. To disable that and work on the rear you need to ensure the car is properly jacked up with jack stands (all 4 wheels off the ground) or make extra sure you use some wheel chucks so the car cannot roll forward and fall off the stands. Then under the service menu put the car into "towing mode" while pushing on the brake pedal. Once it is in towing mode you can disconnect the cables to the emergency parking brake and service the rear calipers.
Now on to the products:
First we have Wurth SBS Brake Treatment II. This is hard to find available for purchase for retail customers but I found it here:
Wurth SBS Brake Treatment II - Goodspeed Motoring
Wurth SBS Brake Treatment II - 189311069 is a revolutionary spray-on metalizing treatment designed to prevent brake noise at the source. When applied as directed, microfine aluminum particles form a molecular bond with the rotor/drum friction surfaces. This composite surface finish ends annoying...
www.goodspeedmotoring.com
Here is how I use it:
1) Remove rotors completely and clean with CRC Brake Cleaner or other good brake cleaner. Remove any rust on the outer edges if required using a brake caliper steel brush (don't use on the friction surface). Also remove any rust from the rotor "bell".
2) Spray the product generously to cover the entire rotor. Make sure you keep a distance of about 1-2 feet so you spray with a mist. I usually do 2 coats. Do one side covering the entire rotor including bell, friction surface and outer edges. Each coat only needs about 15 minutes to dry. Then turn the rotor over and repeat.
3) Usually good to replace the pads or clean the pads, grease the caliper pins, etc. Then remount. Take a drive and use light braking to burnish the brakes to the rotors and the aluminum treatment will oxidize and create a smooth finish to the friction surface filling in any imperfections. Rotors will be like new without any noise, squeaks, etc. Lasts 1 year. The bells will be less suseptible to rust as the treatment prevents corrosion. Note, I also spray this on the lug nuts after removing the rust from those as it is good for that too.
Second product to treat the rust that forms on the inner side of the hub, inside the hub near the main half shaft nut, and any rust that might have formed where the brake lines attach inside the wheel well to the steel fittings. Note, I should have mentioned this first but it's usually easiest to apply this product while the rotors are off the car. You do NOT want any of this on the brake calipers, pads or rotors:
Corrosion block is used on airplanes, autos, etc. It's great stuff! It's a grease though so we don't want it on the friction surfaces of the brakes as mentioned. It is fantastic though to prevent rust and corrosion on the other parts like the back of the wheel hub, front of the hub where the main wheel nut is for the half shaft, and the steel parts for the brake lines inside the wheel well. I prefer the spray can type to treat the rear of the hubs and other fittings for the brake lines. I use the grease for the front hub wheel nut area and just coat inside the cylinder after removing any existing rust. Lasts 12 months.
Make sure to use a caliper brush to remove any existing rust from the back of the hubs, etc. If it's really rusty a drill bit with steel brush attachment works wonders to remove rust. Then apply the treatment. Redo once every 12 months.
Cheers!
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