Thanks for backing up what I thought, that's a relief, so if there was only 30 volts between the contacts within the pyrofuse holder then the pack should have been fully discharged. Can you with your knowledge think of any other possibility ?
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bkp_duke
Well-Known Member
This one I am not sure what has happened, although my gut tells me it is either a contactor failure (more likely), or a DC-DC converter failure.
You said Tesla was working on the car? If so, make them fix it.
Were you measuring across the two pyro fuse contacts? If so are you sure it was 30v and not 30mv?
Highly unlikely that you drained the pack to 30v without going something external to it. (That would likely mean the pack was destroyed as well since the batteries should never be discharged that far.)
Yes I read the voltage between the two contact and I'm 99% sure it was 30volts but like anyone i could be wrong. | think the 12v battery stops receiving charge at 300v from the pack. Any idea this is true ?
It sounds like you don't know what you are doing, so you might want to think twice about messing with the HV pack.
You shouldn't get a pack voltage measurement across the two fuse contacts, that is why I suspect you saw 30mv which would just be measurement noise. (A lot of people miss the small m when they are taking measurements like that.)
No, I don't know what the DC-DC cut-off voltage is, but I would assume it is at, or likely above, 300v.
Ingineerix was advising me at the time, I wouldn't have touched the pack otherwise.
Hello Tesla Community,
I repost my questions again over here because one user told me this would be the appropriate thread for my questions.
I‘m considering buying a used facelift Tesla Model S which was in a minor accident. It collided in a parking lot with an SUV. There is damage to the hood, minor damage to the bumper (Tesla unauthorized Bodyshop told me the bumper can be fixed without replacing it) and a deployed steering wheel and dashboard airbag. A Tesla authorized Bodyshop quoted 15k€-20k€ to repair it, which would be way to expensive.
I‘m now considering buying it and repairing it with used parts and the help of an unauthorized workshop. There are a couple questions I couldn’t find any information about online:
Sorry for my sloppy english. I’m from Germany but I thing the german Tesla community is to small to find any help concerning my questions...
I really appreciate your reply’s!
Cheers
Jonathan
I repost my questions again over here because one user told me this would be the appropriate thread for my questions.
I‘m considering buying a used facelift Tesla Model S which was in a minor accident. It collided in a parking lot with an SUV. There is damage to the hood, minor damage to the bumper (Tesla unauthorized Bodyshop told me the bumper can be fixed without replacing it) and a deployed steering wheel and dashboard airbag. A Tesla authorized Bodyshop quoted 15k€-20k€ to repair it, which would be way to expensive.
I‘m now considering buying it and repairing it with used parts and the help of an unauthorized workshop. There are a couple questions I couldn’t find any information about online:
- The dealership who wants to sell the car told me that it does not run and drive because the airbag are deployed. Is the car really locked in park when the airbags are deployed? What else could lead to this? Shouldn’t it start when I bypass set pyro fuse? Can I somehow bypass that to see if it runs before I buy it?
- Is it necessary to replace the deployed airbags by Tesla or can I buy used airbags and delete the crash data from the airbag control unit?
- I read that Tesla sometimes lockes the car after an accident. Getting it recertified by Tesla seems to be a nightmare I don’t want to go through. How can I check if they locked it?
- If I repair the cosmetic damage by myself will there be any chance to get the airbags replaced by Tesla or will they reject the repair?
Sorry for my sloppy english. I’m from Germany but I thing the german Tesla community is to small to find any help concerning my questions...
I really appreciate your reply’s!
Cheers
Jonathan
bkp_duke
Well-Known Member
1) when any airbag deploys in a Tesla the "pyrofuse" on the HV battery blows. This is why the car will not run/drive at the moment.
2) it's very possible to buy used airbags and replace them outside of Tesla, but you need to have root-level access to verify that no other computer warnings have gone off (if you don't know what I'm talking about, then you should probably stop here unless you have a computer science or computer engineering degree to hack into and get root level access - this gets progressively harder as the software version goes up)
3) see #2, you need to have root access and have gone through repairs to see if the car is blacklisted (i.e. cannot supercharge, etc.)
Your best bet is to find someone local to you that has done repairs and rooted these cars, and pay them to either do the work for you, or to assist/teach you how to do it. These cars, aside from suspension and tires, are nothing like working on traditional cars. Everything, and I do mean literally everything, is controlled from the 3 main computers (yep, there is more than one, they are on a network and talk to and update each other).
bkp_duke
Well-Known Member
The battery pack is 350-400V, and you need to take proper precautions to replace the fuse (it is a high voltage fuse). If you don't have experience with high voltage, this is not the place to start.
I wouldn’t do it by myself. I know a workshop which is certified for electric vehicles. But they aren’t Tesla certified and if the replacement of the fuse voids my warranty it’s not worth it.
I need to calculate my risk before buying it. The car is just 10-15k€ cheaper then the current used market value for this model. So I don’t have that much room for additional repair costs. If I void the warranty or loose the Tesla support for the vehicle the car would actually be a financial loss for me because then it would be cheaper to buy a undamaged used car.
I need to calculate my risk before buying it. The car is just 10-15k€ cheaper then the current used market value for this model. So I don’t have that much room for additional repair costs. If I void the warranty or loose the Tesla support for the vehicle the car would actually be a financial loss for me because then it would be cheaper to buy a undamaged used car.
bkp_duke
Well-Known Member
If your concern is a Tesla warranty, then you should probably be talking to a Tesla approved repair shop, or at least your local service center. No one here can speak for them, and you should get their word on how the work should be done if that is your primary concern.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
I have listened and got a 2nd opinion and there is only 1 click.
I get well over 14v after I charge the 12v battery.
After only a short period of 12v being connected it discharges gradually then car shuts off. Have seen it down at 7/8v after maybe 60 - 90 minutes connected. Absolutely nothing coming from HV battery to charge 12v.
You say, "I get well over 14v after I charge the 12v battery." Do you mean with a separate charger? And when you remove that charger the battery drops to 12-13v? (I'd be surprised if you got 14v+ from just the battery)
If I'm understanding correctly and you do not see 14v+ after removing your separate charger, the DC-DC is not providing power of course, but you've replaced that.
You have both A/C and heat which implies you have pack voltage, although a module that's out of spec. You got that rear motor fault.
Just not enough information. I wouldn't hesitate t root it. Surely there is an open-sourcer in the EU who could do that for you. (I believe Ireland is still in the EU, hopefully)
There are software ways in, but I just can not disclose. My articles will always work as long as you have control of the hardware.
If I'm understanding correctly and you do not see 14v+ after removing your separate charger, the DC-DC is not providing power of course, but you've replaced that.
You have both A/C and heat which implies you have pack voltage, although a module that's out of spec. You got that rear motor fault.
Just not enough information. I wouldn't hesitate t root it. Surely there is an open-sourcer in the EU who could do that for you. (I believe Ireland is still in the EU, hopefully)
There are software ways in, but I just can not disclose. My articles will always work as long as you have control of the hardware.
