Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Salvage Car Owners Support Group.

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Battmobile sells MUCH longer-life, lighter weight lithium 12V battery replacements to everyone. They're referenced many places here on TMC forum and I've seen one in person and what I will buy in the future, but I can't recall their website for sure right now. Probably battmobile.com or some variation. Definitely worth the time to look it up!

Good luck!
Lithium 12V batteries are fine for warm climate regions. They must not be charged below zero degrees Celsius without preheating, as they get permanently damaged.
 
Can someone give me some direction. I vacuumed my HVAC and charged the system the pump ran but never got very cold or over 90lb on the high side. The condenser fans never started. Saw a puff of 134a and it quit. Now the pump won't run and the fans dead. The rest of the system is fine. Jumped the condenser fan relay and they run fine. 2013 S fans were possibly jammed, AC Line was replaced. all else is fine.
 
Last edited:
Can someone give me some direction. I vacuumed my HVAC and charged the system the pump ran but never got very cold or over 90lb on the high side. The condenser fans never started. Saw a puff of 134a and it quit. Now the pump won't run and the fans dead. The rest of the system is fine. Jumped the condenser fan relay and they run fine. 2013 S fans were possibly jammed, AC Line was replaced. all else is fine.

Kevin, I think you left me a voicemail Friday without leaving a name or phone number. I'd rather answer this one publicly anyway for the benefit of others.

Check your temperature sensor off the front harness with the horn, etc. If the temp sensor is disconnected, the compressor will refuse to run. You can check to see if this is working by looking to see if the outside temperature is being reported by the cluster and MCU. It will show "- -" if not .

Step 2 - if your car is equipped with chiller and evaporator solenoids, make sure they were energized (open) during coolant charging.

Step 3 - Make sure the condenser fan controllers are properly connected and were not damaged in the crash. They are mounted on the outside of the driver and passenger frame rails near each wheel well.

I'm betting it's the missing temp sensor and / or harness though. O'Reilly's sales the temp sensor for less than $20. Good luck.
 
[
Kevin, I think you left me a voicemail Friday without leaving a name or phone number. I'd rather answer this one publicly anyway for the benefit of others.

Check your temperature sensor off the front harness with the horn, etc. If the temp sensor is disconnected, the compressor will refuse to run. You can check to see if this is working by looking to see if the outside temperature is being reported by the cluster and MCU. It will show "- -" if not . It is working fine. Shows temp in the dash. I just do not know where to put it there is a hole on the top of the air box and the service manual gives no image.

Step 2 - if your car is equipped with chiller and evaporator solenoids, make sure they were energized (open) during coolant charging.

Not sure about this may be my problem checked all my fuses swapped solenoids so I know they are good. It took the 780g no problem. Seems like the chiller never closed as it never got cold and the high side never went over 90lbs. not reciveing the signal again? I reset with all 3 reset methods. Is there a way to clear errors in the ecu that controls the chiller pump and fans?

Step 3 - Make sure the condenser fan controllers are properly connected and were not damaged in the crash. They are mounted on the outside of the driver and passenger frame rails near each wheel well. I jumped the fan solenoid and they ran at full speed. so this solenoid is not closing and is good so where does the signal come from?

I'm betting it's the missing temp sensor and / or harness though. O'Reilly's sales the temp sensor for less than $20. Good luck.

Thank you for the reply. I am sorry I neglected to leave my number. Very much appreciate the help! I have been working on this for a year (mostly locating parts) and I am so close!

IMG_3660.jpg
 
Kevin, I think you left me a voicemail Friday without leaving a name or phone number. I'd rather answer this one publicly anyway for the benefit of others.

Check your temperature sensor off the front harness with the horn, etc. If the temp sensor is disconnected, the compressor will refuse to run. You can check to see if this is working by looking to see if the outside temperature is being reported by the cluster and MCU. It will show "- -" if not.


It is working fine. Shows temp in the dash. I just do not know where to put it there is a hole on the top of the air box and the service manual gives no image.

Step 2 - if your car is equipped with chiller and evaporator solenoids, make sure they were energized (open) during coolant charging.

Not sure about this may be my problem checked all my fuses swapped solenoids so I know they are good. It took the 780g no problem. Seems like the chiller never closed as it never got cold and the high side never went over 90lbs. not reciveing the signal again? I reset with all 3 reset methods. Is there a way to clear errors in the ecu that controls the chiller pump and fans?

Step 3 - Make sure the condenser fan controllers are properly connected and were not damaged in the crash. They are mounted on the outside of the driver and passenger frame rails near each wheel well.

I jumped the fan solenoid and they ran at full speed. so this solenoid is not closing and is good so where does the signal come from?

I'm betting it's the missing temp sensor and / or harness though. O'Reilly's sales the temp sensor for less than $20. Good luck.


Thank you for the reply. I am sorry I neglected to leave my number. Very much appreciate the help! I have been working on this for a year (mostly locating parts) and I am so close!


View attachment 310605

No worries on the voicemail. When I say solenoid, I'm referring to what's built into the chiller and evaporator blocks, not the relays in your fuse box. You can unplug the harness at each block and run low current 12v through to energize them. You should hear them click and open. These were present in most RWDs prior to the release of AWD and the new composite radiator support. You will need to open these to charge the AC properly. ND-11 oil is also crucial.

If all else fails you want to check fuses for the thermal controller and compressor as well as verify power at each component's harness connection. The thermal controller should be signaling / controlling most or all of this. You need to be very careful around the compressor high voltage connections though. Disengaging the HV connector will probably trigger HVIL and open the HV battery contactors for safety until you reseat the connector.

ECU and DTC clears would be performed using Tesla's diagnostic software.

Edit: Beautiful car, by the way.
 
Last edited:
  • Informative
Reactions: kevinM
No worries on the voicemail. When I say solenoid, I'm referring to what's built into the chiller and evaporator blocks, not the relays in your fuse box. You can unplug the harness at each block and run low current 12v through to energize them. You should hear them click and open. These were present in most RWDs prior to the release of AWD and the new composite radiator support. You will need to open these to charge the AC properly. ND-11 oil is also crucial.

If all else fails you want to check fuses for the thermal controller and compressor as well as verify power at each component's harness connection. The thermal controller should be signaling / controlling most or all of this. You need to be very careful around the compressor high voltage connections though. Disengaging the HV connector will probably trigger HVIL and open the HV battery contactors for safety until you reseat the connector.

ECU and DTC clears would be performed using Tesla's diagnostic software.

Edit: Beautiful car, by the way.

Update,

I energized the evaporator block it clicked and tried to add more coolant the compressor still will not start. My chiller does not have a solenoid but is just attached into a dummy socket. Voltage at the compressor is 351v.

I checked the thermal controller fuse (good) airflow system dead when disconnected.

Used ND-11 found some oil sprayed on the main battery and to the left of the evaporator block. the system is holding pressure.

The ac switch goes to off when you hit auto.

My front rt vent is opening and closing once a minute?!? It is a replacement.

I have gremlins running around my shop. they are hard to catch!

Please help!

I think I just need to have someone clear the codes and all would fire up. Do you have the ability to do that. Where should I go Tesla is 2 hrs away.

Thank you,

Kevin
 
FYI: missing or erroneous sensor info can lockout the compressor. For instance if the front ambient air sensor is missing or damaged (happens in accidents easily), then the compressor will not run.

I have the ability to run remote diagnostics, clear any codes, reactivate any and all systems, flash software, etc.
 
Thank you Ingineer. Sounds like a good option, will talk to you again when I find out if supercharging works or not.

I have 351v to the compressor, thermal controller is working pumps run. Relay X559 jumpered @ 87a and condenser fans run. Could I check the compressor by adding 12v to pin2?

I think the electronics in it are shot.

Is there a better way to check it?


Wiring diagram.JPG
 
Diagnostics. It's the only way to know what's going on. I've never seen a compressor die unless it had mechanical damage, or someone put the wrong oil in.

You cannot make the compressor run by putting voltage in, it needs a special PWM signal and LIN communication on the Diag line.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kevinM
Ac Issue Solved!

I charged the expansion valve (Thank you speedracer) and added more 134a noticed a leak at the high side connection.

So I was loosing gas as it was added to the system.

No wonder I never got to full pressure. Explains my puff and oil on in that area.

Dove it last night after getting my title and plates complete.

Wow this is a great automobile!

Thank you for the help everyone!

Kevin