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I really need your help community. It is the infamous emmc issue. I reflashed successfully and put all the crucial gateway files back where they belong so car didn’t lose identity. I just need to redeploy but there’s a BMS error which I guess is causing redeploy to fail.
I have the car rooted so logs tell me the reason for deployment’s fail is a lack of response from dcdc and cmp ecu’s. They both are hv components so contactors not closing might play a part. BMS state is fault also.
Error codes;
w086 SW not ok to precharge
W114 SW FC Contractors
I checked every fuse. HV loop connector is fine. 12V battery is fine and is being supplied all the time externally to 13.8V
My last hope is to check old fashioned fuses inside FJB and DCDC. (Car is 2016 awd)
For those still following, what could be causing contactors to not close? It is not HVIL, not pyro fuse, not internal disconnect fuse. I’m about to go mental. This car was driving fine too with the bricked emmc and a black screen. Help is greatly appreciated.
I have the car rooted so logs tell me the reason for deployment’s fail is a lack of response from dcdc and cmp ecu’s. They both are hv components so contactors not closing might play a part. BMS state is fault also.
Error codes;
w086 SW not ok to precharge
W114 SW FC Contractors
I checked every fuse. HV loop connector is fine. 12V battery is fine and is being supplied all the time externally to 13.8V
My last hope is to check old fashioned fuses inside FJB and DCDC. (Car is 2016 awd)
For those still following, what could be causing contactors to not close? It is not HVIL, not pyro fuse, not internal disconnect fuse. I’m about to go mental. This car was driving fine too with the bricked emmc and a black screen. Help is greatly appreciated.
It's been a month or two since I've visited this thread and the "being a dick" level has gotten unusually high in this thread, moreso than the usual Tesla fanboy arrogance. People are desperately pleading for assistance and smug a-holes with non-salvage cars feel the need to chime in without offering problem solutions or guidance.
If you have nothing useful to contribute to a person's SALVAGED CAR problem in this thread, STFU - we already know about blah blah blah salvage, blah blah blah support, blah blah blah Elon.
If it wasn't for us buying "totaled cars" (we don't bill at $180/hour) to repair with SKILLS (keyboard warrior is not a skill), your insurance premiums would probably be 25% higher. You're welcome.
If you have nothing useful to contribute to a person's SALVAGED CAR problem in this thread, STFU - we already know about blah blah blah salvage, blah blah blah support, blah blah blah Elon.
If it wasn't for us buying "totaled cars" (we don't bill at $180/hour) to repair with SKILLS (keyboard warrior is not a skill), your insurance premiums would probably be 25% higher. You're welcome.
A variation on A. N. Gineer’s good point: salvage buyers bidding up prices of totaled cars reduces the gap between pre-accident value and residual, thereby making it easier to total our cars ... allowing us to buy newer cars with latest tech: win-win!
Maybe with Tesla entering the insurance business they will re-visit their hostility to repairing salvage cars as it would help their insurance division’s margins.
Maybe with Tesla entering the insurance business they will re-visit their hostility to repairing salvage cars as it would help their insurance division’s margins.
AlphaTango11
Member
Hi everyone, I recently purchased a salvage title December 2014 P85D linked here, with a somewhat interesting situation.
About a month ago, the original owner drove through a "6-8" puddle" and the car displayed a few error messages: "Immediate Service", "12 volt battery”, Car may not start”. He was still able to drive it home (only five more miles or so) and park it. When he tried to drive it again the next day, his 12V battery was dead, so he towed it to a Tesla approved body shop (not service center, from what I can tell).
This body shop replaced the 12V battery, nothing else, and he got more warnings: "Reduced power", "Cay may not start", and no heat or A/C. In addition, supposedly, the GPS does not update to a new location.
The owner called his insurance company, and they totaled it without looking at it more in depth. The broker that sold it has powered it up only by jumping the 12V battery, not much else is known.
With the background information out of the way, the car is arriving today. My father and I have successfully rebuilt 5 other salvage vehicles for ourselves and family members, but never a Tesla. We have good mechanical skills, but that will only go so far for these, as a larger portion is software related (BMS latched faults are my main concern for this) and the parts are harder to come by. I mainly have a few questions for everyone and am seeking advice as to how to proceed / what to watch out for.
1. Is there anything absolutely critical that I should do/check after the car has arrived to prevent any damage to the pack? The issue occurred about a month ago with the pack at 200 miles of range remaining, so I do not think the pack will be low/drained, thankfully.
2. From the errors listed, I currently suspect that there is an issue with the contactors and/or pyrofuse. I don't yet have the vehicle to inspect or test those yet, but I wonder if the seal let some water in to that section of the pack and shorted out the contactors or the board controlling them. Does this seem like a good place to start? If not, what would be? I plan on first at least checking the pyrofuse to see if it has any resistance, but after that I'd probably drop and inspect the pack. I have a hydraulic car lift, so dropping the pack would not be terribly difficult. The car is now displaying 201 miles instead of 200 in the original listing. I am not sure how to interpret that but I am reasonably certain that the reading is just the last known good one and not likely to be the actual pack voltage.
3. As far as acquiring parts goes, would it be best to try to go through Tesla? eBay? Obviously, Tesla will not sell an entire battery pack, but would they sell contactors or a pyrofuse in this case?
4. Is there any way to check and see what warranty work was performed on the vehicle in the past? Due to the fact that it is clearly no longer in warranty, I am concerned about DUs, MCU, and door handles.
Mostly just looking for any advice and/or tips that you all may have. In addition, from what you all can tell, was buying this a good deal or a mistake? I know we won't know for sure until it's finished, of course.
Thanks!
The car arrived today and these are my notes:
Jumped car with 12V to get door handles to deploy.
Hear some clicking, I'm assuming it's the contactors?
Mutliple errors about "Car needs service" but not really any specific mentions. Car obviously unable to start.
After a few minutes I smelled a burnt smell from the back of the car so I powered it off and disconnected 12V power, and that's where I am currently.
Soon I plan on dropping the pack and inspecting it to make sure the contactors, pyrofuse, and DC-DC converter test good.
Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
About a month ago, the original owner drove through a "6-8" puddle" and the car displayed a few error messages: "Immediate Service", "12 volt battery”, Car may not start”. He was still able to drive it home (only five more miles or so) and park it. When he tried to drive it again the next day, his 12V battery was dead, so he towed it to a Tesla approved body shop (not service center, from what I can tell).
This body shop replaced the 12V battery, nothing else, and he got more warnings: "Reduced power", "Cay may not start", and no heat or A/C. In addition, supposedly, the GPS does not update to a new location.
The owner called his insurance company, and they totaled it without looking at it more in depth. The broker that sold it has powered it up only by jumping the 12V battery, not much else is known.
With the background information out of the way, the car is arriving today. My father and I have successfully rebuilt 5 other salvage vehicles for ourselves and family members, but never a Tesla. We have good mechanical skills, but that will only go so far for these, as a larger portion is software related (BMS latched faults are my main concern for this) and the parts are harder to come by. I mainly have a few questions for everyone and am seeking advice as to how to proceed / what to watch out for.
1. Is there anything absolutely critical that I should do/check after the car has arrived to prevent any damage to the pack? The issue occurred about a month ago with the pack at 200 miles of range remaining, so I do not think the pack will be low/drained, thankfully.
2. From the errors listed, I currently suspect that there is an issue with the contactors and/or pyrofuse. I don't yet have the vehicle to inspect or test those yet, but I wonder if the seal let some water in to that section of the pack and shorted out the contactors or the board controlling them. Does this seem like a good place to start? If not, what would be? I plan on first at least checking the pyrofuse to see if it has any resistance, but after that I'd probably drop and inspect the pack. I have a hydraulic car lift, so dropping the pack would not be terribly difficult. The car is now displaying 201 miles instead of 200 in the original listing. I am not sure how to interpret that but I am reasonably certain that the reading is just the last known good one and not likely to be the actual pack voltage.
3. As far as acquiring parts goes, would it be best to try to go through Tesla? eBay? Obviously, Tesla will not sell an entire battery pack, but would they sell contactors or a pyrofuse in this case?
4. Is there any way to check and see what warranty work was performed on the vehicle in the past? Due to the fact that it is clearly no longer in warranty, I am concerned about DUs, MCU, and door handles.
Mostly just looking for any advice and/or tips that you all may have. In addition, from what you all can tell, was buying this a good deal or a mistake? I know we won't know for sure until it's finished, of course.
Thanks!
The car arrived today and these are my notes:
Jumped car with 12V to get door handles to deploy.
Hear some clicking, I'm assuming it's the contactors?
Mutliple errors about "Car needs service" but not really any specific mentions. Car obviously unable to start.
After a few minutes I smelled a burnt smell from the back of the car so I powered it off and disconnected 12V power, and that's where I am currently.
Soon I plan on dropping the pack and inspecting it to make sure the contactors, pyrofuse, and DC-DC converter test good.
Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
AlphaTango11
Member
Agreed, that didn't make much sense to me either.
Currently, I have it ready to be lifted but the air suspension has leaked down all the way and the compressor is not running to refill it. I didn't have any jacks low enough to fit under the car, but hopefully tomorrow or the next day I will. I don't know of a way to force the air suspension higher. Maybe dropping the pack and inspecting it will lead to more clues as to what's going on with everything.
I didn't see any signs of water intrusion anywhere in the vehicle, and currently all the minor fuses I've checked in the fuse boxes in the frunk have been good. Will keep you all updated. I don't think this is as bad as typical "flood" cars.
Currently, I have it ready to be lifted but the air suspension has leaked down all the way and the compressor is not running to refill it. I didn't have any jacks low enough to fit under the car, but hopefully tomorrow or the next day I will. I don't know of a way to force the air suspension higher. Maybe dropping the pack and inspecting it will lead to more clues as to what's going on with everything.
I didn't see any signs of water intrusion anywhere in the vehicle, and currently all the minor fuses I've checked in the fuse boxes in the frunk have been good. Will keep you all updated. I don't think this is as bad as typical "flood" cars.
AlphaTango11
Member
Removed the battery pack from the vehicle today. HV connectors were full of water.
There was no voltage here, so I'm assuming the contactors are open.
When measuring voltage at the main pack fuse at the front of the battery, the voltage fluctuates between 50-80 volts. Not a good sign at all, from what I can tell. The main pack fuse checked good, with .3 Ohms of resistance and good continuity.
In addition, I opened the Front Junction Box cover and checked all 4 fuses, all of them checked good. I also opened the DC-DC converter cover and everything looked good in there, but I did not see any fuses to check.
I believe the next step will be to open the pack up, unfortunately. The external seal looked pretty good (except for around the connectors) but I think some water may have made its way into the pack and done some major damage. May also check the fuses in the HVJB below the rear seats.
There was no voltage here, so I'm assuming the contactors are open.
When measuring voltage at the main pack fuse at the front of the battery, the voltage fluctuates between 50-80 volts. Not a good sign at all, from what I can tell. The main pack fuse checked good, with .3 Ohms of resistance and good continuity.
In addition, I opened the Front Junction Box cover and checked all 4 fuses, all of them checked good. I also opened the DC-DC converter cover and everything looked good in there, but I did not see any fuses to check.
I believe the next step will be to open the pack up, unfortunately. The external seal looked pretty good (except for around the connectors) but I think some water may have made its way into the pack and done some major damage. May also check the fuses in the HVJB below the rear seats.
Attachments
AlphaTango11
Member
Hi everyone, just wanted to provide a final update.
My father and I cleaned out the HV plug port and reconnected the battery. The car now shifts into drive and charges.
The only remaining error is "Park Assist Unavailable" but I am hoping that will go away when driven.
I still plan on opening the pack at the contactors to verify that there isn't any water in that section.
Our best theory at the moment is that the driver drove through a deep puddle, which let water into that connector due to the plastic around it being cracked. Once this water was in there, it sat there and corroded the plug, which kept the car from charging and shifting into drive.
The funny thing about this salvage purchase is that we didn't even have to replace any parts. That will be a fun conversation with the inspector.
My father and I cleaned out the HV plug port and reconnected the battery. The car now shifts into drive and charges.
The only remaining error is "Park Assist Unavailable" but I am hoping that will go away when driven.
I still plan on opening the pack at the contactors to verify that there isn't any water in that section.
Our best theory at the moment is that the driver drove through a deep puddle, which let water into that connector due to the plastic around it being cracked. Once this water was in there, it sat there and corroded the plug, which kept the car from charging and shifting into drive.
The funny thing about this salvage purchase is that we didn't even have to replace any parts. That will be a fun conversation with the inspector.
Hi all,
I have a M3 that I rebuilt. Very light front end damage that damaged the bumper cover but not the bumper bar or the frame. I needed a headlight, the plastic front radar bracket (as they were both damaged beyond repair) as well as a right fender and bumper cover. While amassing the parts I needed I sent my ECU to Engineerx to be programed so I can read the codes but I have no idea how to reset the codes now (he has not answered my email) and would like to know if anyone has any knowledge of how to fix some of the codes/things I have encountered.
1) I get a code for "FCW cancelled"
2) Code for, W010_ RadcCalibissue (I'm guessing radar calibration issue)
3) Sensor misaligned or Radar misaligned
4) APS_W048_DAS features disabled
5) APP_ W048 autopilot features disable contact tesla if problem persists)
6) W052_RadcEcuissue (I'm guessing this is a radar ECU compatibility issue related to alignment)
7) EPAS3S_a130_Steering angle sensor not calibrated
8) A fault has been detected with the right front turn indicator (This is odd since the indicator flashes it simply flashes too fast)
I saw this problem from another forum member and it was software related after a headlight replacement and this is the headlight I replaced.
Rapid Turn Signal Blinker (2X speed)
9) Front fish eye camera not calibrated
10)Back up extcamera not calibrated.
11) Sleep wake aborted/ diagnostic alert for sleep wake transitions
12) GTW071_hrlTrigger (Issue with triggering HRL)
13) GTW_098_HCMRversionMismatch ( software update required)
broadcast version does not correspond to the manifest
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanks,
Philip
I have a M3 that I rebuilt. Very light front end damage that damaged the bumper cover but not the bumper bar or the frame. I needed a headlight, the plastic front radar bracket (as they were both damaged beyond repair) as well as a right fender and bumper cover. While amassing the parts I needed I sent my ECU to Engineerx to be programed so I can read the codes but I have no idea how to reset the codes now (he has not answered my email) and would like to know if anyone has any knowledge of how to fix some of the codes/things I have encountered.
1) I get a code for "FCW cancelled"
2) Code for, W010_ RadcCalibissue (I'm guessing radar calibration issue)
3) Sensor misaligned or Radar misaligned
4) APS_W048_DAS features disabled
5) APP_ W048 autopilot features disable contact tesla if problem persists)
6) W052_RadcEcuissue (I'm guessing this is a radar ECU compatibility issue related to alignment)
7) EPAS3S_a130_Steering angle sensor not calibrated
8) A fault has been detected with the right front turn indicator (This is odd since the indicator flashes it simply flashes too fast)
I saw this problem from another forum member and it was software related after a headlight replacement and this is the headlight I replaced.
Rapid Turn Signal Blinker (2X speed)
9) Front fish eye camera not calibrated
10)Back up extcamera not calibrated.
11) Sleep wake aborted/ diagnostic alert for sleep wake transitions
12) GTW071_hrlTrigger (Issue with triggering HRL)
13) GTW_098_HCMRversionMismatch ( software update required)
broadcast version does not correspond to the manifest
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanks,
Philip
Other than those issues 
... The car charges, runs and drives as it should perfectly fine. It is currently running V 9.0 software from 2018 and only has 1900 miles (still smells new!).
I have all functions with the exception of the autopilot features and of course it will not self update. I have done a soft re-boot by holding down the two steering wheel controls but am not sure how or if I should do a hard re-boot. Also am thinking I need to update?
... The car charges, runs and drives as it should perfectly fine. It is currently running V 9.0 software from 2018 and only has 1900 miles (still smells new!).I have all functions with the exception of the autopilot features and of course it will not self update. I have done a soft re-boot by holding down the two steering wheel controls but am not sure how or if I should do a hard re-boot. Also am thinking I need to update?
Hello Ahwatukee! You should read all of this and other threads: at least in the past Tesla has “updated” away cars’ ability to not just Supercharge, but also blocked any DC (rapid) charging.
There are several experts on TMC forum who may be able to help you. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so I suggest not doing anything without expert advice because you may make your situation much worse.
Good luck & please let us know your progress!
There are several experts on TMC forum who may be able to help you. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so I suggest not doing anything without expert advice because you may make your situation much worse.
Good luck & please let us know your progress!
Thanks for the reply. I mainly wanted to align my radar and cameras to enable autopilot features. I wish we were able to go to a service center and have them simply plug in toolbox then do some simple diagnostic work called out in the service manual. The fact that the M3 can only have certain simple diagnostics and repair functions done through proprietary service software linked to the "mother ship" really hampers your ability to make fairly simple repairs.
You can, as long as what they need to do doesn't involve the HV system. If the HV system is involved in what you want done you have to pay for, ~$500, and pass an HV system inspection before they will work on it.
