Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Salvage Car Owners Support Group.

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I'm not planning to use manifold, just a small hose that they sell for small cans. You really don't even need a gauge if your cans add up to the proper amount, just charge till they empty. But i do agree that if you use Pag manifold/gauges then need to clean them first.
I used Robinair machine to recover and it sucked out 80ml of oil so i'll be putting same amount back.


Wow, i've never seen that. It must be a mistake on someone else's part from before...
My car definitely had a valve and nothing came out when i took both caps off.
I've seen cars not having High pressure port at all but never seen one not having shrader valve in the port...
Also, i don't think the cap is actually designed to keep so much pressure that high side creates (~300psi on a hot day i think?..)
Then for some reason, my car doesn't have a valve in the high pressure line. I discovered it the hard way...
 
The delivery company for the Salvage 2014 S I just ordered called me to say that I would need to find a way to unload it from the truck, as it doesn't come with a key. Should car positioning jacks do the trick to get it off the bed? They said I may need to call a tow company to come get it off. I assume there's absolutely no way to easily get it into neutral without a key?
 
Should car positioning jacks do the trick to get it off the bed?
It probably isn't on a bed, but a car hauling trailer. So I doubt car positioning jacks would work.

They said I may need to call a tow company to come get it off. I assume there's absolutely no way to easily get it into neutral without a key?

I would think that hooking 12v to the jump posts in the front and then using a coat hanger, or something like it, to pull the inside handle on the driver's door would get you in and able to put it in tow mode. (It would likely take a very strong jump pack.) Barring that I think you could disconnect the parking brake calipers and hook 12v to them to release them. (I think that would work, but the car could move while you are under there doing that.)
 
It probably isn't on a bed, but a car hauling trailer. So I doubt car positioning jacks would work.



I would think that hooking 12v to the jump posts in the front and then using a coat hanger, or something like it, to pull the inside handle on the driver's door would get you in and able to put it in tow mode. (It would likely take a very strong jump pack.) Barring that I think you could disconnect the parking brake calipers and hook 12v to them to release them. (I think that would work, but the car could move while you are under there doing that.)
Just to confirm, I don't have a key for the car but am able to get inside. I can still put the car in towing mode without a key nearby?
 
If it's a tilt bed you might be able to put liquid soap under the tires and have it slide off. Maybe run a tow strap or rope to a tree hooked to the car and have the transport pull forward if needed.
My current plan is to throw some positioning jacks under the rear wheels, the kind with a foot pedal to raise the wheel up, and if it won't roll off on its own I'll get some nylon strap around the wheels and slowly tug it off with a pickup. How I'm getting the thing off the street and into the driveway, I've yet to see. If it's a tilt bed, I'll just have them back in and drop it with their winch.
 
If it's a tilt bed you might be able to put liquid soap under the tires and have it slide off. Maybe run a tow strap or rope to a tree hooked to the car and have the transport pull forward if needed. Did you see he literally just did what I suggested in his latest i8 video 😂
Or, if he's in New York like us, Snow. You know, because we get snow in June sometimes ❄️🥶
And yes, because I'm a huge fan and watch them all in order, religiously. Sometimes I even read the comments 😆

Seriously, Rich is a God-send. With my warranty expiring soon, and Tesla service center prices increasing like Jack-And-The-Beanstalk, I was going to trade in my Model S for a Hyundai Kona Electric. But after watching his videos I realized💡I can fix my car just like him, used OEM eBay parts from crashed cars for a fraction of the price! Any shop or myself can install them, the Model S is just a collection of Mercedes/Kia/Ford/Chevy/Land Rover/Kentworth parts anyways!
 
Last edited:
Correct, no high voltage parts. Here's the list I found: Mercedes parts: Shifter and Wiper Stalks, Steering Column, Front Seat Controls, Window Switches, Struts
Kia parts: HVAC Blower Motor
Ford parts: Accelerator Pedal, Brake Light Switch, Parking Brake
Chevy parts: Brembo Brakes
Land Rover parts: Steering Rack
Kenworth parts: Windshield Wipers
 
  • Like
Reactions: brainhouston
Land Rover parts: Steering Rack
Not sure what Land Rover uses, but i have early Model X with Bosch steering rack and it looks like exact copy used on some Mercedes models...

The delivery company for the Salvage 2014 S I just ordered called me to say that I would need to find a way to unload it from the truck, as it doesn't come with a key. Should car positioning jacks do the trick to get it off the bed? They said I may need to call a tow company to come get it off. I assume there's absolutely no way to easily get it into neutral without a key?
Pretty sure you already know this but there's no "conventional mechanical park" feature like on ICE cars. Its just a separate electric brakes on the rear axle.
If you will have some time then you can just jack one side at a time, remove rear wheels and remove ebrake actuators ( should be 3 T25 torx screws) and manually release each caliper.
I did that for moving the car around later after delivery (had access to forklift during delivery/unload :) )
 
  • Informative
Reactions: cleverscreenam
Hi guys, this thread was a great help.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. I purchased a wrecked (rear end damage) clean title (found on facebook) 20 MXP to repair and drive. I am in the repair business, and the repair itself went fairly smoothly although it was an extensive repair (full rear section swap). The car was dead when I purchased (pyro fuse), I did not power it up due to the airbag deployment. After the repair, it powered up but is giving multiple error codes shown below.

GTW_f281 - Software update required
GTW_f210 - Service is required
GTW_f209 - Unable to charge
GTW_f208 - Unable to start vehicle
GTW_f015 - Software update required
TAS2_a218 - Air suspension adjustment unavailable
EPB_w052 - Parking brake function degraded

Won't drive, start or charge currently. I replaced 12v battery, pyro fuse mounted to fuse box and had SRS module cleared (multiple airbags deployed). Is there another pyro fuse I am missing? Or could this be caused by crash event in TAS module? I have a cable for Toolbox 3 on the way, I am not sure if that or T Can will be more help.

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6857.JPG
    IMG_6857.JPG
    544 KB · Views: 112
Won't drive, start or charge currently. I replaced 12v battery, pyro fuse mounted to fuse box and had SRS module cleared (multiple airbags deployed). Is there another pyro fuse I am missing? Or could this be caused by crash event in TAS module? I have a cable for Toolbox 3 on the way, I am not sure if that or T Can will be more help.

Given the software update required errors, that likely means you replaced some electronics. So you need to get into service mode and redeploy the firmware before you have any chance of getting further. I don't know if T-CAN can do that or not. (You might have to tow it to your nearest service center, or authorized body shop, to get it in the geo-fenced area to allow you to enable service mode and trigger a re-deploy.)
 
Given the software update required errors, that likely means you replaced some electronics. So you need to get into service mode and redeploy the firmware before you have any chance of getting further. I don't know if T-CAN can do that or not. (You might have to tow it to your nearest service center, or authorized body shop, to get it in the geo-fenced area to allow you to enable service mode and trigger a re-deploy.)
Ok, thank you for the insight. I did replace the charger door/port module, along with lift gate and rear door. I was just reading another thread about module swaps. I will try and swap the modules back to original all around and see if that helps.
 
Given the software update required errors, that likely means you replaced some electronics. So you need to get into service mode and redeploy the firmware before you have any chance of getting further. I don't know if T-CAN can do that or not. (You might have to tow it to your nearest service center, or authorized body shop, to get it in the geo-fenced area to allow you to enable service mode and trigger a re-deploy.)
Thanks for leading me in the right direction. Swapped the modules for originals and got it powered up. As a side note if anyone is having charger port codes after doing work in that area - make sure the red safety latch on the HV cover on the back of the charging port is pushed in and locked. Otherwise it will throw codes and disallow charging.