TMC is an independent, primarily volunteer organization that relies on ad revenue to cover its operating costs. Please consider whitelisting TMC on your ad blocker or making a Paypal contribution here: paypal.me/SupportTMC

Salvaged VIN #531 on ebay

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by Fabrizio, May 4, 2014.

  1. Fabrizio

    Fabrizio Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2010
    Messages:
    126
    Location:
    Phoenix, Arizona, USA
    #1 Fabrizio, May 4, 2014
    Last edited: May 4, 2014
    This is a salvaged 2010 Roadster with 24000 miles. The damage is all in the front. Air bags deployed, but other than that, it seems like there is no damage from the windshield towards the back. The PEM, batteries and motor seem intact. The "buy it now price" is $39,900 - interesting to see what happens with this one.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesla-Roadster-Tesla-/281316907089
     
  2. marco2228

    marco2228 Roadster Signature #34

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    Messages:
    185
    Location:
    Cologne/Bremen , Germany
    Some pics from when it was at the salvage yard:
    Bildschirmfoto 2014-05-04 um 21.11.52.png Bildschirmfoto 2014-05-04 um 21.11.57.png Bildschirmfoto 2014-05-04 um 21.12.09.png Bildschirmfoto 2014-05-04 um 21.12.20.png
     
  3. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Messages:
    365
    So, I bought this car!

    I just got it home tonight, pretty cool ride, its my first Tesla and it didn't come with a charging cable, I have J1772 charger at home and obviously that doesn't work... My first step is getting a charger so I don't end up with a dead pack, its on the low-side right now as it sits in my garage.

    The car seems to be in relatively good shape, interior needs only the 2 airbags replaced, all of the drive-train components are fine and functional, most of the front end electronics are there. Seems to be missing the horn, A/C condenser/fan assembly, windshield washer reservoir and has a broken harness for the brake-vacuum. Those things plus the cosmetic plastics and body panels is all this is gonna need to be a rocking roadster again! Oh, and the windshield too.

    If anyone has any sourcing information for parts and/or wiring schematics or body panel schematics for the front end, I'd be very grateful for your sharing!
     
  4. Fluke

    Fluke Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    641
    Location:
    Stilwell, KS
    If your existing J1772 EVSE has a high enough amp rating to charge the roadster as fast as you want, I'd recommend going with hcsharp's "The Can" J1772 adapter rather than getting a more expensive Tesla charger.
     
  5. Doug_G

    Doug_G Lead Moderator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2010
    Messages:
    15,852
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    +1 on "The Can". I have the original adapter and awkward is an understatement.

    Good luck on the rebuild project. You're definitely going to need the air conditioning running, as it's part of the battery pack cooling system.
     
  6. Cottonwood

    Cottonwood Roadster#433, Model S#S37

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2009
    Messages:
    5,062
    Location:
    Colorado
    I have an original, 30-Amp, Roadster UMC that is a spare for me. We could probably work a deal for loan, rent, or sale depending on the length of your need. PM me if interested.
     
  7. shrink

    shrink Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Messages:
    556
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    I should be able to help you out. I'm in Phoenix and have an extra J1772 adapter. I also might have a 30 amp Blink EVSE to sell in about 2 weeks.

    PM me.
     
  8. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Messages:
    2,721
    Location:
    Santa Cruz, California, United States
    #8 wiztecy, Jun 2, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2014

    PULL the fuse on the ESS ASAP if you want to save the pack.

    I wouldn't even attempt to charge it without the condenser and cooling all in place, nor do I think it'll charge (as Doug mentioned) which I'm sure the charge system will thrown an error in order to protect itself.

    Also the front right wheel is hitting the cabin, so I suspect you have front suspension damage where the wishbone is bent back, so make sure to take a good look in that area and the components.

    Happy to see you're restoring it, will be a blast when its back on the road!
     
  9. spaceballs

    spaceballs Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2013
    Messages:
    538
    Location:
    Sammamish
    I agreed with Wiztecy, to pull the ESS shunt/service disconnect to prevent over discharge over time.
    If you have issues later on getting the car to not charge and the voltage drop is starting to make you freak out about bricking your pack. I can give you steps on how to manually charge/balance each brick (or sheet, slowly like @1A), without having to remove the ESS from the car.
     
  10. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Messages:
    365
    Wow, so many great responses, you guys are all awesome and so positive!

    When I got it at the salvage yard they actually had it plugged in b/c they have a charger they bought on ebay (its a 120V), when it was plugged in it was charging so it seems the charger is alright with the current damages, they had it plugged in overnight before I got there so with the 120 that isn't a ton of electricity but it was something...

    I have a couple questions, I noticed on the PEM and Battery pack they have tags with SN, etc. and they both say "Remanufactured", I would imagine this means they were replaced at some point (probably under warranty?), does anyone have a sense for whether the Reman ones are any good? (in my mind it means the battery has less then 24k miles on it, which seems like a good thing, but I don't know how many miles it is)

    My other question is about the battery cooling system, I don't see any coolant pipes running from the front to back (but its so tight it may not be easy to see), are we sure the HVAC fans/condenser/evap are integral to the PEM/Battery pack cooling? I wish there were schematics somewhere I could see so I know how to put it all back together.

    I found most of the parts I need (including the condenser/fans assembly) at a shop out East, I've purchased them and they are shipping them to me, so should be able to start reassembly this upcoming weekend!
     
  11. Doug_G

    Doug_G Lead Moderator

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2010
    Messages:
    15,852
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Since only Tesla remanufactures the packs and PEMs, I wouldn't worry about that.

    And yes we are sure about the cooling system.
     
  12. dhrivnak

    dhrivnak Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Messages:
    2,150
    Location:
    NE Tennessee
    The cooling lines run down the passenger side and if you remove the plastic wheel liner on the rear passenger side you will see the battery heat exchanger.
     
  13. shrink

    shrink Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Messages:
    556
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Highs in Phoenix have been around 107-108 all weekend and that is supposed to continue for the next 7 days or so. What would you guys recommend the OP do to protect that battery from this heat?

    With a cool down cycle around sunrise this AM my pack got down to 68 F degrees. It's at 95 F right now after sitting around all day. I'll run a Cooldown once off peak hours start at 7pm. The OP does not have that option unfortunately.
     
  14. djp

    djp Roadster 2.0 VIN939

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2011
    Messages:
    1,108
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    It should be fine - heat doesn't have much of an effect at low SOC. I'd avoid charging it above 50%, both to avoid heat buildup during charging and high SOC.
     
  15. Cottonwood

    Cottonwood Roadster#433, Model S#S37

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2009
    Messages:
    5,062
    Location:
    Colorado
    I have an MC240 that works with my Roadster 1.5 that I am going to send to the OP for use with his salvage Roadster 2.0; he can at least do some trickle charging (3-5 Amps) that should not need any cooling.

    Do any of you know of issues using an MC240 with a 2.0? It works fine with my 1.5; I dusted it off and gave it a test yesterday.
     
  16. AEdennis

    AEdennis Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2013
    Messages:
    1,743
    I was told by Tesla that the MC240s (I assume the 30A one from a NEMA 14-50) is incompatible with Roadster 2.X. When we bought my wife's 1.5 from CPO last year, they were still providing 240V charging and it was when they started to run out of the UMCs... However they dug up an old MC240 for us as they said it works fine for 1.5, just not 2.X Roadsters.
     
  17. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Messages:
    365
    Is there a difference between the MC240 and the MC240-1? I saw on another posting about Tesla reworking the MC240 to be compatible w/ 2.0 for them and I noticed on the side it said MC240-1. I wonder if that means the -1 is compatible?

    Where is the ESS fuse?
     
  18. Fluke

    Fluke Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    641
    Location:
    Stilwell, KS
    Just out of curiosity, which set of pictures of this car represent the condition it was in when you received it? The photos included in Marco's post above appear to show more front end damage than the ones included in the Ebay ad. Did someone do some initial front end work on it and then abandon the project?
     
  19. Cottonwood

    Cottonwood Roadster#433, Model S#S37

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2009
    Messages:
    5,062
    Location:
    Colorado
    #19 Cottonwood, Jun 3, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014
    I wonder what is funny about the 2.x Roadsters? The electrical interface is supposed to be a simple J1772, analog handshake. It's hard to imagine a compatibility issue, but...

    The unit that I have is an MC240-1. See pics below.

    Is there an owner of a 2.x Roadster in the Boulder/Denver area who would be willing to do a compatibility test before I send this unit to Phoenix?

    MC240 Lable1.JPG

    MC240 Lable 2.JPG
     
  20. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Messages:
    2,721
    Location:
    Santa Cruz, California, United States
    #20 wiztecy, Jun 3, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014
    I agree, appears someone tried fixing it, put a new crash box in, pulled the right wheel forward. I'd be cautious of that, any suspension failure is serious, and make sure you you have it professionally looked at when you're complete. This is the common theme on Salvaged Roadsters. Buy at an insurance auction dirt cheap and then mark up 2-3x the price by removing some of the damaged parts and putting back a few low cost parts to hide the major damage/collision areas. I would try to get as much info from the seller / previous seller on the changes as Fluke mentioned in the pics.
     

Share This Page