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Salvaged VIN #531 on ebay

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by Fabrizio, May 4, 2014.

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  1. Mobility

    Mobility Member

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    Forgot to clarify, pictures are from a 2011 2.5 roadster sport.
     
  2. EVGuy

    EVGuy Member

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    Bay Area
    Do you still need the hood hinges? Also did you find the schematic you need for the vehicle? If not send me a PM, I have everything you'll need to fix it. part numbers and such. good luck, If you have any question just ask.
     
  3. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    Thank you very much EVGuy, I've PM'd you.

    I do need to take some pictures to post on here, I'll get on that soon, I've got it parked at my neighbors garage a couple blocks over right now b/c he has a ton of excess solar being produced right now which he would rather have go to good use then back to the grid at their measly buy-back rates!

    Is it normal for this thing to drop 15 miles of ideal range every 24 hrs it isn't plugged in? I feel like after I charge it up, if I unplug it the charge disappears quickly. Compared to my other EV's this isn't normal but I'm not sure about these Roadsters yet...
     
  4. thefortunes

    thefortunes Member

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    Location:
    Wisconsin
    15 miles isn't normal.

    There will be some settling/balancing after the charge is complete (typically 1-2 miles or range loss). That happens within 30 minutes or so in my experience.

    Then I lose about 1 mile a day of range if unplugged.
     
  5. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    What might cause it to be higher? Could it be due to a hot AZ garage? (trying to run A/C compressor to keep the batteries cooled) What are the possibilities?
     
  6. chronopublish

    chronopublish 2008 Roadster #VP27

    Joined:
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    I've lost up to 5 miles during the workday when outdoor temps get into the 90s. If you're talking about a 24 hour period in Arizona? Yeah, I think you might be able to attribute your losses entirely to the heat.
     
  7. Tripbug

    Tripbug Member

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    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Say I have a couple of headlights you might need if you want them. They came off my 2.0 roadster #532. So let me know.
     
  8. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    SW Florida
    What shop "out east" did you get parts from?
     
  9. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    Still don't have this project complete but I do have some things moving. Having a friend who runs a body shop repair the body panels and paint them as well. Then we will fit them together.

    I also have all the safety equipment (new Seatbelts, SIR, airbags, etc) ready to install.

    Charging is an interesting saga: Bought the MC240-1 from user on forum and it didn't work with my vehicle (some kind of compatibility issue with the later Roadsters I think); Tesla tried to help me out but since the vehicle isn't operable I couldn't bring it to them to investigate the issues, instead they let me borrow the newest Mobile connector and pull logs for them remotely, which didn't produce any useful information to them. Instead of worrying too much about it I decided to just pull the Roadster plug and cable off the MC240 and install them as the output on another J1772 compliant EVSE; this worked beautifully and is better than the MC240 anyways because it is good for 60A, so I now have a 60A 240V charger! I also took the MC240 and installed the J1772 plug/cable off of my other EVSE to its outputs and it works as well! So all in all not a bad deal, especially since any J1772 vehicles aren't capable of more than the 30A rating on the MC240 anyways! Whereas the Roadster can handle the higher Amps offered by my other charger which is now a Roadster charger! Thank goodness for Tesla Roadster being part of the J1772 compliance process and therefore simple to adapt to J1772 EVSE, makes me consider swapping the inlet on the vehicle to J1772, but probably not worth the troubles!
     
  10. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    I do still need hood hinges, dealer said I could "look" at some they have there but haven't had chance to do so yet...

    Wondering if any lovely people know how to get the braking system working? My brake booster vac doesn't come on, not sure if its a wiring issue or what. Any ideas on how to diagnose that?

    Also, I'm having trouble figuring out how to mount the "bumper" (not the plastic bumper cover but the carbon bumper that mounts to the carbon crashbox up front), anyone with experience on that? Doesn't seem to "mate up" with obvious holes, unless there is a piece I'm missing? Schematics would be awesome but I don't have them...

    Thanks,
    Sean.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thank you so much but I do have headlights already, I think I overpaid pretty badly but I was in a rush to get as many parts as I could together quickly.
     
  11. chris22104

    chris22104 Member

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    Nov 28, 2011
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    Hi Sean!
    We want some pics (with narration) of your progress! Hopefully you've been shooting some as you go along!
    Thanks!
    Chris
     
  12. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    OK OK, I've finally got some decent pictures to update everyone with!
    As the car sits right now:

    20140802_232058.jpg
    20140802_232426.jpg

    Those were the good angles, this is the damage shot:

    20140802_232130.jpg

    The CF bumper that is body part the radiator is mounted to and is just sitting on top of the crash box, that is the one I can't figure out how to mount/secure properly!

    - - - Updated - - -

    And some shots of the franken-charger!
    20140802_232550.jpg
    20140802_232603.jpg

    A great way to get a 60A charger but you need the Roadster input cable (or alternatively a J1772 80A cable if you have the "Can" for your roadster already)

    I have been charging at 30A because my wiring (pre-charger) is fused at 35A (Used #10 sub-pump wire for run from panel); but the car recognizes it as being capable of up to 60A! That'll be a mission for after I get this thing driving (legally): to run better wiring and upgrade the service to the charging station so I can charge at 60A! This charger is small too, about the size of the MC240, so I can take it with me if I go to anywhere with 50A outlets (RV parks) and use it at 50A! Anyone with the MC240 should seriously consider this upgrade since you already have a 6ga (aka 60A capable) Roadster connector and output cable!
     
  13. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    It looks like you are missing the top half of the air duct that directs air from the bumper to the condenser, and your lower half might be broken. There are four bolts on top and one on each side that attach the front tesla pics 146.jpg tesla pics 147.jpg tesla pics 148.jpg tesla pics 149.jpg , plus the three in the rear by the condenser.
    The brake pump has 12v at the connector (green +, black -) when the key is on. The pressure (vacuum) switch is internal.
    I asked in a previous post where you purchased used parts from, as I am still looking for a few items.
    I actually bid on you car against Worldwide when it was at Copart. I thought it was worth more than what they paid for it, but had my eye on another sport model I later bought (#1324). Let me know if you want to know how much it sold for.
     
  14. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    Oh, I see, so I need to get that plastic piece, I believe I saw it on a Tesla schematic so I'll see if I can order from them! Thank you!

    The guy I purchased parts from had them leftover from a project, he doesn't carry or have any more Tesla parts... on top of that I believe I overpaid for damaged parts anyways...

    I'd love to know what it went for on Copart, I feel good about what I paid for it regardless of what it went for there but its nice to know the history anyways! Awesome that you got a sport model, you lucky-duck!
     
  15. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    Awesome, now that I looked at your pics and my set up I realize exactly the missing piece and you nailed it, its that shroud! Hopefully won't take too long to get from Tesla, thank you so much for your help!

    I have to spend this next week studying/testing for my state board exams but next weekend I'll have time to designate to this again! Hoping to be driving the Roadster in September!

    Thanks all
     
  16. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

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    May 28, 2013
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    More questions:

    1. I'm not getting 12V power to brake booster vac, where to look for the source of that wire?

    2. Anyone have schematics for the 12V wiring up front? Specifically the ones that include the horns, the windshield fluid pump and the rest of the wires that run with the brake booster pump... I've got a mess of loose wires and can't really identify where they should all go, there are at least 14 wires and I can only think of where 6 of them go (2 horns and 1 windshield fluid pump), I've got the booster pump plugged in and the headlights are self-explanatory (I think). I think there are side-marker lights on the 2.0 models but not the 1.0/1.5 models, since I'm using a 1.5 bumper I won't be using those (maybe I could do my own custom side marker lights?).
     
  17. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    Location:
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    Check fuse #22 in the fuse box, it runs directly there.
     
  18. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
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    Interesting revelation today:

    The front CF Crashbox was replaced by the dismantler yard and they used one off a Lotus Elise rather than Roadster... So far dimensionally all of the parts have fit fine and the bumper appears it will fit fine however the height between mounts for the front-pull-bolt connector (and also support for the internal CF bumper structure) is different, the Tesla part is about 4mm taller than the Lotus part and the bolting points are completely different as well! Looks like the only solution is to weld a support bar on the Lotus bar to hold the bumper structure. The picture below shows the two parts and their differences... The one the left is the Tesla part the one that is on the right is the Lotus part... The Tesla part is much bigger/substantial so I hope this is gonna work if we weld the extra supports into the Lotus part...

    WIN_20140804_165233.JPG

    - - - Updated - - -

    Done, fuse was good, traced the wire and it was damaged inside of the connector and wasn't making the full connection, I pulled it and recrimped it, now brake pump is working! YAY for power brakes, now my illegal joy-rides are that much safer!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Done, fuse was good, traced the wire and it was damaged inside of the connector and wasn't making the full connection, I pulled it and recrimped it, now brake pump is working! YAY for power brakes, now my illegal joy-rides are that much safer!
     
  19. ElectricLove

    ElectricLove Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
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    458
    Wow, got in touch with the original owner of my Roadster. He said "that little car saved my life!", I think he was going 65-70mph when he got into his accident and he said he broke his leg only because he slammed on the brake and kept holding the brake down during impact. Apparently it is safer for you to release the brake just before impact in an accident like that b/c leaving your leg on the brake means your leg will be absorbing all of the momentum shift that occurs whereas leaving it off the brake it won't absorb any impact (unless there is crush damage in the cock-pit)... I thought that was interesting information!

    So, besides that, he also has the original chargers for this car as well as the spare key and key-fob! He said he will give them all to me to stay with the car! So COOL! This guy is awesome, as I'm finding most Tesla owners to be!
     
  20. Chickenlittle

    Chickenlittle Active Member

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    #60 Chickenlittle, Aug 25, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2014
    Of course this is a labor of love but hope you are tallying the expenses. Curious what it ultimately costs. Can you this a career?
     

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