Just two different implementations, or the same implementation on two buses. Since most of the CANBus implementations are four wire, one bus and not ten wire, four bus.
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David99 soldered his bluetooth adapter directly to the Sumitomo connector for this very reason, because the space is that tight. I am hoping that worst case I can solder the splitter to the sumitomo connector and fish the ribbon cable under or behind the drawer. We'll see.
I'm willing to use this software and I purchased one, but unfortunately my cheapo adapter didn't seem to work with SMT. I'll try OBDLink LX later.
My adapter is this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QJRYMFC/
Now this LELink adapter is a bit smaller than OBDLink LX, I was able to stow the adapter and a cable inside and closed the cubby. There is some space at the bottom of the back and to your left (my car is RHD so it's on my right side though). You can't use the space at the bottom as the center console sliding door needs that space to open, so your only choice is "left wall".
Just feel the space with your fingers - the shape is odd but you should be able to put your adapter carefully in the lower part of the wall, and fold your cable on the left wall. Then make sure you can open/close the sliding door and close the cubby. Use your fingers to carefully keep the cable on the left wall. Don't force it!
My adapter is this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QJRYMFC/
Now this LELink adapter is a bit smaller than OBDLink LX, I was able to stow the adapter and a cable inside and closed the cubby. There is some space at the bottom of the back and to your left (my car is RHD so it's on my right side though). You can't use the space at the bottom as the center console sliding door needs that space to open, so your only choice is "left wall".
Just feel the space with your fingers - the shape is odd but you should be able to put your adapter carefully in the lower part of the wall, and fold your cable on the left wall. Then make sure you can open/close the sliding door and close the cubby. Use your fingers to carefully keep the cable on the left wall. Don't force it!
The adapter you bought uses Bluetooth Low Energy, which is a completely different and incompatible protocol with 'regular' Bluetooth.
In the later years, some Android phones support both types of Bluetooth, but when I started developing I had the impression that Android did not support Bluetooth Low Energy at all, or at least on very rare occations, so it was ignored.
I also believe Iphones never supported the regular bluetooth, only the LE ?
This is very confusing, and I welcome anyone who can help me word it differently to help users not buy the wrong adapter.
Also, I should probably look into supporting these now, a few people have requested it.
GatorGuy
Member
I just finally hooked up my OBDLink LX but I'm not sure if it's working right. Just sitting in my garage the app gives me crazy figures.
For instance it says my consumption is "infinity".
For instance it says my consumption is "infinity".
GatorGuy
Member
I took it for a drive yesterday and it was still giving me crazy values that made no sense. Such as infinity consumption when I'm actually moving. I wasn't able to see a log of the values for the whole drive. I think that is a limitation of the demo version?
I bought this adapter and it works well with the app. Looks like the odblink, but not sure if it is the same chipset.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M19GKRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M19GKRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Demo version!? Ooopsie. The demo version is only playing back a dummy log, to show off the content offline. It is not connecting to your car at all. I'm afraid you will have to pony up for the real version.
If you look closely at the app screen while it is connecting, or if you record a raw log before you start connecting, the app will state if it uses ELM327 command set, or STN1110 (=OBDLink). I believe STN1110 is proprietary to OBDLink, at least I have never seen any other brand of adapter use it.
Wanted to thank you @amund7 for the great app! It worked with OBDLink LX in 2017 MX (RHD). Also I found that if I pair the OBDLink LX to the phone first, it also works with TM-Spy if I configure it to work with Bluetooth paired devices and enter default passcode 1234 to connect. Actually it is already paired so the passcode doesn't have to be correct.
I also was able to fit the adapter and 1ft cable inside and close the cubby.
I also was able to fit the adapter and 1ft cable inside and close the cubby.
GatorGuy
Member
I bought the real app. It's working much better lol.
Does anyone here have root access to their car, or somehow access to the diagnostics screens in the car?
If you do, I need your help.
I am thinking that if you could film your screen (so the text is readable), go through the menus, take a long drive (so that temperatures will change) while filming these screens, and at the same time recording a canbus dump (Scan My Tesla will support full canbus dumps very soon), then we could maybe find new packets on the bus, at least know what to look for, and also confirm/adjust the scaling and accuracy of currently implemented packets.
This would be of invaluable help in moving the app forward and getting to know more about the canbus.
Please PM me if you have this opportunity (you may remain 100% anonymous if you want).
Other ideas to reach the same goal is greatly appreciated, other diagnostics software or scanners that we could run alongside of?
Raw canbus data with decoded signals from other sources would also be useful.
Any packet definitions and formulas that are currently not known by Scan My Tesla would be interesting.
If you do, I need your help.
I am thinking that if you could film your screen (so the text is readable), go through the menus, take a long drive (so that temperatures will change) while filming these screens, and at the same time recording a canbus dump (Scan My Tesla will support full canbus dumps very soon), then we could maybe find new packets on the bus, at least know what to look for, and also confirm/adjust the scaling and accuracy of currently implemented packets.
This would be of invaluable help in moving the app forward and getting to know more about the canbus.
Please PM me if you have this opportunity (you may remain 100% anonymous if you want).
Other ideas to reach the same goal is greatly appreciated, other diagnostics software or scanners that we could run alongside of?
Raw canbus data with decoded signals from other sources would also be useful.
Any packet definitions and formulas that are currently not known by Scan My Tesla would be interesting.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Comma AI Cabana tool?
cabana comma ai - Google Search
A panda and a cabana: How to get started car hacking with comma.ai
Cabana's web interface makes sense of the various signal and sensor information collected by the Panda, analyzing the information and interpreting it on a dashboard for your review. The company posted a video (Comma Cabana) of the software in action, showing off the data collection and analysis in real time.
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