-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Did that already, but will do it again.
Both the cable and the ODB were bought at the recommended SMT store and worked fine for a long time, until this.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
I just tried, I get the same thing. In this case the car was sleeping. Try to wake the car with the app, fob, or touch the door handle.
Even when I wake the car, about 2/3 of the time I get a blank screen on SMT. I just cycle the app, usually works 2nd or third time.
Never have a problem with the car on or driving. It is rare, perhaps 3% of the time that all fails and I have to unplug the reader.
Yes it is
Not sure if you got it from the smiley, but you are actually trying to connect Scan My Tesla to a speaker
I'd love for Scan My Tesla to blast some beats (that would be a cool easter egg), but you will have to go to wrench menu -> choose bluetooth adapter -> select your actual OBD2 device
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
You won't believe how many support requests I have gotten from people trying to connect to the car bluetooth, as in the handsfree speakers. Yeah we can laugh, but honestly, it is due to poor documentation and app descriptions. And I think I have managed to improve it, because I never get that question anymore.
Not sure if you got it from the smiley, but you are actually trying to connect Scan My Tesla to a speaker
I'd love for Scan My Tesla to blast some beats (that would be a cool easter egg), but you will have to go to wrench menu -> choose bluetooth adapter -> select your actual OBD2 device
Yes i did got it.
But this happened just now.
Like i've said it's been weeks (in at least 3 phones) that i tried to connect with no success.
This time i finally disconnected the odb , but this happened...
Anyway i deleted the JBL GO and was finally able to put the SMT working!
JzCastle
Member
I am not sure if this is the right thread on this topic but I thought I would ask here anyway.
Has there been any discussion on a range drop around June this year? I don't mean any capping or degradation etc. or kWh drop but the difference in the range numbers = miles / kilometers the car is showing.
We have in Tesla Owners Finland quite many cars who have had a change in the shown miles/kilometers since and around June 2020. And this with Model S and Model 3's, with different aged cars, different driven km's, etc.
For example my own car, which is a 11/2017 Model S 75D and driven 52.00km (~32.000 miles). I had pretty good numbers before June and then suddenly had a -13km (~8 miles) drop and it is still continuing a bit. This has happened in the last 4 months and 6.000km (~3800 miles). Drop was from 380km to 367km (236 to 228 in miles).
I have checked with ScanMyTesla my actual battery capacity has not changed. It is still also showing very close to 4.2V when charged to 100%. Yes, there is some degradation but this does not explain it. Assuming mine was 72,6 kWh when new, it is now showing (nominal full pack) 70.0 kWh and so this would be approx. -3,5% degradation so not that bad for a three year old car. June this was showing 70.1 kWh.
Maybe Tesla has changed the kilometers/miles and what the cars show?
Does anyone else have any experience on this? Any other topics on this? Any other comments which could explain it?
This is not really a big issue and the actual capacity of the battery has not changed but this has still raised some questions.
Thanks!
Has there been any discussion on a range drop around June this year? I don't mean any capping or degradation etc. or kWh drop but the difference in the range numbers = miles / kilometers the car is showing.
We have in Tesla Owners Finland quite many cars who have had a change in the shown miles/kilometers since and around June 2020. And this with Model S and Model 3's, with different aged cars, different driven km's, etc.
For example my own car, which is a 11/2017 Model S 75D and driven 52.00km (~32.000 miles). I had pretty good numbers before June and then suddenly had a -13km (~8 miles) drop and it is still continuing a bit. This has happened in the last 4 months and 6.000km (~3800 miles). Drop was from 380km to 367km (236 to 228 in miles).
I have checked with ScanMyTesla my actual battery capacity has not changed. It is still also showing very close to 4.2V when charged to 100%. Yes, there is some degradation but this does not explain it. Assuming mine was 72,6 kWh when new, it is now showing (nominal full pack) 70.0 kWh and so this would be approx. -3,5% degradation so not that bad for a three year old car. June this was showing 70.1 kWh.
Maybe Tesla has changed the kilometers/miles and what the cars show?
Does anyone else have any experience on this? Any other topics on this? Any other comments which could explain it?
This is not really a big issue and the actual capacity of the battery has not changed but this has still raised some questions.
Thanks!
FMinMI
Member
Can you tell me if there is a video or document how to read the .CSV files SMT creates? I tried to save several 0-60 run and when I looked at the saved file, time vs speed doesn't seem to make any sense, and then there is the accuracy column which for one run was in the 0.5 range and in another.1.3. And for speed one file said I hit 130 which was totally wrong.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hi Frank,
I only use this software to plot the CSV files: amund7/UDPLogger (Windows installer under 'releases' to the right)
Otherwise not sure what you are looking at, are you plotting the Speed signal? To get the best accuracy, use the Speed tab and record from there, you can even clean it up by deleting all the other signals, or creating a new tab with just speed. This is more important the slower your adapter is. A regular ELM327 can get 50-80 packets per second, and by showing only the Speed signal you should get those. An obdlink can take up to 1000 packets per second, but even that is far from enough if you are trying to record the All tab. Also temporarily disable Teslalogger if you use that, it also holds open for all the packets it sends, slowing down your Speed signal.
FMinMI
Member
I am just trying to figure out how to use the data.
For example, what does the column accuracy mean? Like I asked before, one dataset shows it to be .6-.8 why the other 1.2-1.5. I am interested in a 0-70 MPH graph. How do I do that with the data in the .CSV file? I know I am capturing the data - just need to understand how to 'read' it. I was going to post the files here but TMC doesn't allow that file format, but I attached two screen shots...
Thanks.
Attachments
Accuracy is a or low pass filtered delta T between the last Speed readings, this one is trying to estimate how accurate your timing results (such as 0-60) should be. It takes account any hiccups in data (for instance, phone OS busy, bluetooth hiccup, or general bluetooth adapter/can bus hiccups of which there can be a few). Meaning, when accuracy says 0.7, that means the result displayed in the app is to be read with a +- 0.7 second uncertainty, based on the time jitter of the previous speed readings. You will probably see this increase if you clean out (delete from tab) the other signals, such as battery SOC and temperature.
0.7 is pretty bad, but it's honest as it is directly measured. Try with another phone, they all have different bluetooth implementations, I have noticed my Huaweis are pretty bad at this, but the P20 Pro became a lot better after some firmware updates. Also try an OBDLINK adapter if you want speed, I am not lying when I say they are 20 times faster than the regular ELM327 devices, accuracy should increase accordingly.
I seem to remember that the 0-60, 0-100 columns do not record the results. Off the top of my head I can't remember if this was in the beta, or in the actual production version, are you running production (1.9.2)?
Time column is milliseconds since log start
If the speed is too high, could it be written as kph instead of mph? Unit conversions for CSV files might not work in the beta, you will have better luck with the production version with this.
Edit, didn't catch this sentence:
"I am interested in a 0-70 MPH graph. How do I do that with the data in the .CSV file?"
If you use Windows, the software I posted in my previous post does this with 2 clicks, and has zoom, scroll and quick selecting of signals.
0.7 is pretty bad, but it's honest as it is directly measured. Try with another phone, they all have different bluetooth implementations, I have noticed my Huaweis are pretty bad at this, but the P20 Pro became a lot better after some firmware updates. Also try an OBDLINK adapter if you want speed, I am not lying when I say they are 20 times faster than the regular ELM327 devices, accuracy should increase accordingly.
I seem to remember that the 0-60, 0-100 columns do not record the results. Off the top of my head I can't remember if this was in the beta, or in the actual production version, are you running production (1.9.2)?
Time column is milliseconds since log start
If the speed is too high, could it be written as kph instead of mph? Unit conversions for CSV files might not work in the beta, you will have better luck with the production version with this.
Edit, didn't catch this sentence:
"I am interested in a 0-70 MPH graph. How do I do that with the data in the .CSV file?"
If you use Windows, the software I posted in my previous post does this with 2 clicks, and has zoom, scroll and quick selecting of signals.
Last edited:
It doesn't, I have thought about it several times, we'd have to integrate speed over time to get the distance. Not sure it would be accurate enough. If someone could do the math or try to calculate this from the logs I could get an idea if it's worth the effort to try to make it?
Thanks for the response I'm not sure how the math would work with a non constant rate of acceleration, maybe someone else could chime in. I was thinking we had access to distance traveled in the can bus data, but it looks like it may only update every 1000ms which is to slow for any accuracy in 1/4 mile times.
Similar threads
