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Parking lights were coming on instead of headlights or just DRLs, pressing the brake pedal would result in the warning lights coming on and off until I went into drive, and autopilot was frequently reporting as being unavailable for the drive. Rebooting a few times and even a full power off, wait for the contactors to disengage and power on wasn't clearing it up. But after removing the OBD2 adapter, haven't noticed any more weirdness. May try to reinstall later.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Reminds me of the time last year the SvC told me the reader killed my 12v.
Then, tried to deny my warranty claim.
Lesson learned...Don't ever take your car to Tesla with the reader installed...
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I am going in tomorrow to get my roof replaced. Cannot imagine that they will claim such a thing, especially since the OBD adapter I have cuts the power when I get out of the car. How would that kill a 12v battery, plus my battery seems to be error free still.
I have the CANserver product. It attaches thru the OBD adapter and thru another connector on a second can bus under the passenger seat on my TM3. The CANserver can ALSO have power hooked up via a microUSB on the side, works great for updating the firmware if I plug into my computer, but I can ALSO plug into the USB for the car. If I then try to drive the car I will get restraint errors from the center display. I think I have seen other errors, but that's the one that comes to mind. I simply leave the USB cord plugged into the CANserver but otherwise lying on the floor for when it's time to talk directly to the unit or if I wanna power it after I leave the car.
I have seen a few miswired OBD harness adapters that will short the canbus, and you will hear the contactors open when plugging it in. Obviously bad and you can't drive. But i think those were from china.
Likewise the OBD bluetooth dongle itself does have the ability to transmit on and screw up the network. It could very well be that injecting noise especially if it is a cheap one.
But no matter what I would expect to see error codes on the screen if something weren't right. Not sure what you mean by glitchy.
Could be, car is old enough that some people are reporting that some failures of the 12V battery - but the car was glitchy when the contactors were engaged, which should have meant that the 12V DC-DC was working. Didn't think to check the 12V readings from ScanMyTesla, though.
I'm using a OBDLink LX and the weirdness seemed to happen whether or not the OBDLink was plugged in or not (unplugging the OBDLink was the first thing I tried since that's easier than removing the harness).
Probably OT, but I need some advice on my car's HVAC. Attached is the screenshot of SMT, and I'm a long-time user of SMT.
The outside temperature was 35 degrees Celsius, and HVAC is set to 23. Can you see why PTC cabin heater is on?? Is my HVAC somehow broken?
The outside temperature was 35 degrees Celsius, and HVAC is set to 23. Can you see why PTC cabin heater is on?? Is my HVAC somehow broken?
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Not even sure what PTC cabin heater is in that SMT screenshot as it is not shown/list/doc'd in the G spreadsheet: Scan My Tesla readings
hybridbear
Active Member
This happens all the time in our 2016 Model S. When the cabin temp is cool enough that the car doesn't need to blast full cold air it turns on the electric heating element to mix in warm air with the cooled air to increase the temp of the air flowing out of the vents. On an ICE this is fine since heat is a waste product. But on an EV this is a terrible waste of energy! Sadly, this isn't only a Tesla issue. The 2013 Ford Focus Electric & Ford Fusion Energi that were our first EVs also had this issue where the car would turn on the electric heater with the AC on. I watch this on SMT when using the AC in the summer & either turn off the HVAC or turn down the AC temp when the car starts to turn on the PTC heater.
BigNick
Infamous Fat Sweaty Guy
Should be a software fix available for this to TURN DOWN THE FAN SPEED rather than waste battery energy.
hybridbear
Active Member
I agree that it's an easy software fix, but since this has been an issue with multiple EV brands going back almost a decade I somehow doubt it will be addressed. I also keep an eye on the Thermal Controller 400v line in SMT because that shows how many kW are going to AC or the PTC heater. The AC will drop to 0 at times & the car just puts out cold air based on the residual cooling completed. But then when the PTC heater turns on it may jump to 700+ Watts going to the heater.
BigNick
Infamous Fat Sweaty Guy
I don't have SMT but I have had times where it seems like I'm not driving very hard and I'm running at almost 400 Wh/mi. I always attributed this to driving into town was downhill and the return trip was uphill.
Simultaneous use of the AC and cabin heater is dumb and should be avoided unless the AC is cooling the battery and the climate is set to "HI". Otherwise, get the damn heat from some other source, even (if available) waste heat removed by the battery coolant would be a better choice than turning on a resistance heater.
With the new cars having a heat pump, I suppose this bug will never be fixed.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I think they continue to run the AC as they are trying to dry the air in the cabin, and run the heat to keep you from freezing. That's how AC in cars work. Although unlike all other cars Tesla runs the fan for 15 min. after you park to evaporate the condenser moisture. This is then spewed into the cabin. Hopefully they run the fans long enough to also dry out the cabin.
I do wonder what they do on the new Heat Pump models, as they can't do both at the same time, you are either pumping heat OUT or INTO the cabin. I don't understand the new setup.
I do wonder what they do on the new Heat Pump models, as they can't do both at the same time, you are either pumping heat OUT or INTO the cabin. I don't understand the new setup.
hybridbear
Active Member
@amund7 one future enhancement that I think would be really useful is to be able to set an alarm for a selected measurement. Before my Tesla I used Torque Pro with my Ford Fusion Energi & my Ford Fusion Hybrid before that. It was useful with Torque Pro to be able to set alarms for certain PIDs.
hybridbear
Active Member
That’s odd… we have 2021.24.4 on our 2016 S with AP2 & SMT works fine still. Have you tried disconnecting your OBDII adapter & doing a double scroll wheel reboot?
I'll play around with it some more. Definitely jumped to this conclusion without a lot of data gathering.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
FYI, others are reporting in a Model Y 82 kWh pack thread that this is working to get into the diagnostic screens. -- Post: Model Y 82kW Battery Pack
I could do it in my 2017 X 100D but my kid could not in his 2018 TM3 AWD LR.
Note someone in that thread indicated it worked for them using a capital D -- Post: Model Y 82kW Battery Pack
So of course I was taking pictures of the screen ... I don't think I'll install the next OTA until FSD 10 show up ... hahaha
My version is funny in that it begins with develop
Trouble getting in? Brake to turn 'on'.
From the reddit thread.
I could do it in my 2017 X 100D but my kid could not in his 2018 TM3 AWD LR.
Note someone in that thread indicated it worked for them using a capital D -- Post: Model Y 82kW Battery Pack
So of course I was taking pictures of the screen ... I don't think I'll install the next OTA until FSD 10 show up ... hahaha
My version is funny in that it begins with develop
Trouble getting in? Brake to turn 'on'.
From the reddit thread.
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scottf200
Well-Known Member
Correction. My kid was able to get into it using the info from the reddit post. Turn car on (press brake). He said he also had to unplug the car from his charger.
I'm sure Tesla will correct this oversight soon. In anticipation, I did a 'Forget' of my wifi for the time being so it doesn't download and prompt me every time I turn get in the car.
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