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Scan My Tesla (OBDII) Install
- Thread starter kbecks13
- Start date
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
I noticed that you need to be in Park to be able to connect.
So you need to start the app before you start to drive.
If you forget, you need to stop and go to Park.
Neither Hold let you connect.
Hmm i swear I've connected while driving down the highway before, maybe another app is trying to connect to the OBD2 dongle? When i was trying to get Track Addict to work with the dongle (it doesn't) i was having trouble getting Scan My Tesla to connect until i restarted the phone to fully kill the previous app.
There is no ideal number. It reduces over time as your mileage increases. Usually 1% for every 10,000 miles.
Mine is at 70.3 kWh with 40,000 miles on my 3P+.
Nominal full pack is the main measure of the battery capacity though right. So in theory that dropping to under 75% within the 8 years will be indicative of an out of spec battery?
Last I checked I am trending closer to ybbor being in the very low 70 range right now. Working the math of nominal remaining and current SOC I'm showing quite a bit of range loss too. I've never actually charged to 100% to see where the numbers end up. I'm currently at under 10k miles on the odometer. I know loss should level off a bit but I'd like to track it out of curiosity.
Last I checked I am trending closer to ybbor being in the very low 70 range right now. Working the math of nominal remaining and current SOC I'm showing quite a bit of range loss too. I've never actually charged to 100% to see where the numbers end up. I'm currently at under 10k miles on the odometer. I know loss should level off a bit but I'd like to track it out of curiosity.
MTN Ranger
Member
It's 70%.
No one is sure what Tesla uses to determine 70% degradation... but I would imagine if that number got to 70% of the rated capacity it would be close to whatever metric they use.
KentuckyX
Member
I’m a little late to the game, but today I ordered everything you have listed (for my 2018 Model 3). The MX+ is backordered but I was able to score the Tab A 7” for $35 on eBay. Question: Do you run power to the Tab constantly? Does the ProClip hold the Tab pretty firmly? I’ve had a few ProClips over the years and they’ve worked great. Any other comments or tips appreciated.2017-2018 Model 3
2019-2020 Model 3
The MX+ is on sale for $60
Also ProClipUSA mounts are 20% off with code BLACKFRIDAY
Samsung Galaxy Tab A 7"
Ryefry
Member
No I do not run power to the Tab A constantly or even keep it in my car constantly. When it is in my car it uses very little power and can run for several days (with just commute use) on battery. When I do run power to it I just run a wire under it over to the USB in the center cubby. It would be super easy to hard wire it though but I haven't thought it was worth it at this point.
I do leave the ProClip in the car constantly. The car mount part isn't the best but I have made it better by putting foam between it and the dash. This lessons the movement and noises. The device mount part is fantastic and holds the Tab A firmly but yet allows for easy removal.
I connect the Tab A to my iPhone via WiFi and use Waze a lot more than using Scan My Tesla. It is super nice to have Waze right in front of you. I used Scan My Tesla on the track to monitor temps, especially useful for the brake temps. Here is my thread on that.
Has anybody bused any BT connector other than OBDLink LX/MX/MX+?
I'm thinking the OBDLink units are popular because it it's a bigger brand and better software and update support for car manufacturer specific codes vs other smaller brands?
LeLink is very popular with LeafSpy users and the basic software seem to allow allow read and reset of DTC. I do plan to use it to troubleshoot Honda's when not used on my 2019 M3.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_t1DUEbK1RAKYB
I'm thinking the OBDLink units are popular because it it's a bigger brand and better software and update support for car manufacturer specific codes vs other smaller brands?
LeLink is very popular with LeafSpy users and the basic software seem to allow allow read and reset of DTC. I do plan to use it to troubleshoot Honda's when not used on my 2019 M3.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_t1DUEbK1RAKYB
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
I noticed that the ODB2 could be use to get a 12 V source (Pin 4 & 5 Ground, Pin 16 Power + 12 V)
I am considering to use this to power some accessories instead to have some wires going to the Auxiliary 12 V plug, which would be cleaner.
I know that the plug is not energize when the car is asleep, and I would use a separate fuse,however
- how much current typically would be available?
I am considering to use this to power some accessories instead to have some wires going to the Auxiliary 12 V plug, which would be cleaner.
I know that the plug is not energize when the car is asleep, and I would use a separate fuse,however
- how much current typically would be available?
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
Which numbers do you look at on the SMT to determine the energy provided to charge a battery?
I would like to compare it to the value measured with a Watt meter to determine the efficiency of the AC-DC converter.
I would like to compare it to the value measured with a Watt meter to determine the efficiency of the AC-DC converter.
You can start a new trip (or select 'reset trip' from the arrow menu in the default 'Trip' tab) before you start charging. Please note, to save canbus traffic and make sure the other signals actually come in at all, these will not update on the fly if you are using an ELM327 adapter. Only OBDLINK or other STN1110 based adapters will update these counters on the fly. If you have an OBDLINK you don't need to follow this last step:
You can actually close the app while charging. Then revisit that tab again after charging, or just switch to another tab and back while connected to the car, they should update, and you should see on the AC Charge reading how much the BMS has recorded as coming into the battery.
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your reply.
I have the ODBLINK MX+ so I should get the updates on the fly as mentioned.
I also created a new trip with an AC Charge (kWh) display.
However, I noticed that the car go to sleep after few minutes, so the ODBC plug get disconnected.
So when I will return to the car after an overnight charging, after I open the door and weak up the car,
I wonder if the ODBC will display a correct value for the AC Charge display?
Any tab has a 'trip' in it, so you can copy AC Charge to any tab, then use 'reset trip' on that tab.
It will be correct. We read total counters from the car, so the important part is to 'reset' (and make sure all the values you want to record goes to 0), then you can turn off the app. Then connect later, and you should see the recorded difference in the values.
One gotcha for trips is that the 'distance' signal will only be able to reset, and update, if the car is ON/ready to drive. If you start a trip with the car off, then drive a long distance with the app closed, then your distance will start at 0 when you open the app. I will try to make a dashboard that can explain this and be intuitive.
