Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

SCCA Autocross Class for the Model 3

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Quick notes as I start diving in to the Tesla... Loosening everything and biasing towards max negative camber I'm at -1.2deg on both front wheels.

Most of this came from the control arm mount biasing inward when tightening. I also disconnected upper control arm, articulated upwards to max height before tightening just to bias preload as much as I can bringing car down.

Certainly not enough for SS competition but better than 0.6 stock.
 
Quick notes as I start diving in to the Tesla... Loosening everything and biasing towards max negative camber I'm at -1.2deg on both front wheels.

Most of this came from the control arm mount biasing inward when tightening. I also disconnected upper control arm, articulated upwards to max height before tightening just to bias preload as much as I can bringing car down.

Certainly not enough for SS competition but better than 0.6 stock.
That is a pretty solid gain (anything to just help the shoulder of the tire!). Can you elaborate on the "control arm mount" and what you did there? When I tightened my shocks on the front I leaned on them while tightening the 3 top bolts but I'm wondering if there is more opportunity for me (I have not measured where my - camber is at)
 
That is a pretty solid gain (anything to just help the shoulder of the tire!). Can you elaborate on the "control arm mount" and what you did there? When I tightened my shocks on the front I leaned on them while tightening the 3 top bolts but I'm wondering if there is more opportunity for me (I have not measured where my - camber is at)

I used a prybar between the sheetmetal access holes and the stud on the upper arm mount. I biased from one hole while tightening another just to make sure it was maxed out. Then tightening control arm I also biased it all the way in and up at max height. I didnt try loosening the lower control arm and maxing that bias since it will probably get pushed back in under load.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RacerChris
I used a prybar between the sheetmetal access holes and the stud on the upper arm mount. I biased from one hole while tightening another just to make sure it was maxed out. Then tightening control arm I also biased it all the way in and up at max height. I didnt try loosening the lower control arm and maxing that bias since it will probably get pushed back in under load.
Awesome - Thank you for sharing. I had a Boxster and one thing I loved was that it had actual "slots" where the struts mount so you could actually adjust for camber...A shame the M3 doesn't have that capability