Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Sentry Mode Issues, not recording??

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Did you get this resolved? I have the same issue. I have the Samsung T5.

My dashcam is working and so is my honk recording.

However, sentry says "10 events triggered" but show none of them.

I have deleted all content, reformatted etc. but no luck

Thanks
 
I'm sorry but all this is nonsense. We are guessing at how to make something work that Tesla engineered but left unfinished. (There are tires on the cars, right? Windshield wipers? We paid a premium price. So it's not a kit)
I bought a couple of USB thumbdrives, fast write speeds. They seemed to work but now when I want to review clips the monitor is black with no buttons, no information... Oh the drive isn't fast enough. OK, so I put in an Extreme SD card that works in my Nikon D850. (of course I reformat). Now I don't even get the little camera symbol. So that doesn't work.
Then I go back to the web, find a video - of course it isn't from Tesla (Tesla's taken a page, the wrong page from Apple - let the peasants figure it out....) The video guy highly recommends this microSD card and this adapter. So I order it, but then in the comments he's saying no, now he's recommending something else.... I cancel the order. WTF Tesla? You've got an important feature in your $60,000 car but now we're wandering around in the dark getting advice from people who just happened to shoot a video. Why? Because you dropped the ball.
Why not just have a little list: Official USB drive +25% list, a windshield screen +25%, a trash container that clips on the back of the seat.... You know like the trailer hitch I bought. How hard is this? (I beef on Apple because after spending $4000 on a new MacBook Pro a few years ago with the new USB C ports I had to then buy a bunch of crappy third party dongles just to make everything I was doing work with the new machine. I've replaced almost all of those crappy dongles at least twice, they fail or they were never right in the first place. I just replaced a video adapter for the 3rd or 4th time. This one seems to work great. Now I can move my monitor without the signal dropping out. Wow. ) This USB Sentry Mode stuff is unacceptable. Com'on Elon this is like..... GM, or...Nikola....
 
I’ve had a similar issue. Basically I get the camera icon with a red dot and the sentry with red. I get in the car and there may be 3 notifications for sentry. Yet when I click on the notification thetr are no clips.

then when I click on the camera with the red there is nothing in the sentry folder?

am I doing somehtng wrong?
 
I'm also having this issue so wondering if anyone has found a fix. Using a Samsung T5.

If you are using that drive then you must use the USB-C connection which is what is the charging pad is using. Or you need to find a way to connect a USB 3 hub to the passenger side and power that hub from somewhere besides that USB-A connector.

The USB-A side is only USB 2.0 last time I checked, which is limited to 0.5A of current. Those T5 drives need more current than 0.5A for reliable sustained writing of video files. While they may be USB 2.0 compatible, that is a loose definition, meaning you can connect via USB 2.0 and read files from them, and maybe write small files or create folders. Writing takes more power than reading, which is why when you try to write to them via USB 2.0 they do not work at all or they might write the first 1 second or so and then crap out, no more video, due to lack of power.

See page 22 of the user manual link below
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91JYEAU9RIL.pdf
5V (USB 2.0 USB 3.x okay)
0.8A (USB 2.0 = no, USB 3.x ok if externally powered hub or USB 3.X connection from the car)

That drive will work just fine via USB 3, USB 3.1 connections like the USB-C on the driver's side. But trying to make it work reliably on the passenger's side USB-A is an exercise in futility.

If you do not want to give up the USB-C and wireless charging pad, then you need to do some research and find a drive that is fully compatible via USB 2.0, meaning it can do the minimum sustained write speed as required by Tesla (see owner's manual) and does not need more than 0.5A. When in doubt, keep it simple and small like normal flash drive, and not a SSD. Or just buy the same drive that Tesla is now selling for sentry mode. $20 on AMZ apparently last time I checked. There is a thread here that mentions that.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Mercedes fan
I'm also having this issue so wondering if anyone has found a fix. Using a Samsung T5.
Correction a Samsung T7.

Have reformatted in car and on computer. Dashcam footage saves, just not sentry mode.
If you are using that drive then you must use the USB-C connection which is what is the charging pad is using. Or you need to find a way to connect a USB 3 hub to the passenger side and power that hub from somewhere besides that USB-A connector.

The USB-A side is only USB 2.0 last time I checked, which is limited to 0.5A of current. Those T5 drives need more current than 0.5A for reliable sustained writing of video files. While they may be USB 2.0 compatible, that is a loose definition, meaning you can connect via USB 2.0 and read files from them, and maybe write small files or create folders. Writing takes more power than reading, which is why when you try to write to them via USB 2.0 they do not work at all or they might write the first 1 second or so and then crap out, no more video, due to lack of power.

See page 22 of the user manual link below
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91JYEAU9RIL.pdf
5V (USB 2.0 USB 3.x okay)
0.8A (USB 2.0 = no, USB 3.x ok if externally powered hub or USB 3.X connection from the car)

That drive will work just fine via USB 3, USB 3.1 connections like the USB-C on the driver's side. But trying to make it work reliably on the passenger's side USB-A is an exercise in futility.

If you do not want to give up the USB-C and wireless charging pad, then you need to do some research and find a drive that is fully compatible via USB 2.0, meaning it can do the minimum sustained write speed as required by Tesla (see owner's manual) and does not need more than 0.5A. When in doubt, keep it simple and small like normal flash drive, and not a SSD. Or just buy the same drive that Tesla is now selling for sentry mode. $20 on AMZ apparently last time I checked. There is a thread here that mentions that.
Its does not work from the USB C port either. I have restarted the system as wellqs turning Sentry mode on/off. Dashcam will record but not Sentry.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mercedes fan
If you are using that drive then you must use the USB-C connection which is what is the charging pad is using. Or you need to find a way to connect a USB 3 hub to the passenger side and power that hub from somewhere besides that USB-A connector.

The USB-A side is only USB 2.0 last time I checked, which is limited to 0.5A of current. Those T5 drives need more current than 0.5A for reliable sustained writing of video files. While they may be USB 2.0 compatible, that is a loose definition, meaning you can connect via USB 2.0 and read files from them, and maybe write small files or create folders. Writing takes more power than reading, which is why when you try to write to them via USB 2.0 they do not work at all or they might write the first 1 second or so and then crap out, no more video, due to lack of power.

See page 22 of the user manual link below
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91JYEAU9RIL.pdf
5V (USB 2.0 USB 3.x okay)
0.8A (USB 2.0 = no, USB 3.x ok if externally powered hub or USB 3.X connection from the car)

That drive will work just fine via USB 3, USB 3.1 connections like the USB-C on the driver's side. But trying to make it work reliably on the passenger's side USB-A is an exercise in futility.

If you do not want to give up the USB-C and wireless charging pad, then you need to do some research and find a drive that is fully compatible via USB 2.0, meaning it can do the minimum sustained write speed as required by Tesla (see owner's manual) and does not need more than 0.5A. When in doubt, keep it simple and small like normal flash drive, and not a SSD. Or just buy the same drive that Tesla is now selling for sentry mode. $20 on AMZ apparently last time I checked. There is a thread here that mentions that.

I have a 1TB Samsung T5 that works without issue. Using the original wireless pad connected to USB-C and the SSD connected to the USB-A port.

Are you guys using anything like a USB hub to split connections? Are you using the original USB-C to USB-A cable that was provided with the Samsung T5 device?

Good luck!
 
Correction a Samsung T7.

Have reformatted in car and on computer. Dashcam footage saves, just not sentry mode.

Its does not work from the USB C port either. I have restarted the system as wellqs turning Sentry mode on/off. Dashcam will record but not Sentry.
Might just have a buggy one, older firmware on the drive? Anyway to update drive firmware? If you check the customer reviews on Amazon, these drives appear to be hot or miss. Hard to tell if those misses are due to the actual drives or just the people not knowing how to use them, so that is an unknown.

Are you sure it does format in the car okay and not getting tricked? Can you place some folders and files on the drive, then format in the car, and then take out and check via a PC? Just to make sure it is actually doing it.
 
Might just have a buggy one, older firmware on the drive? Anyway to update drive firmware? If you check the customer reviews on Amazon, these drives appear to be hot or miss. Hard to tell if those misses are due to the actual drives or just the people not knowing how to use them, so that is an unknown.

Are you sure it does format in the car okay and not getting tricked? Can you place some folders and files on the drive, then format in the car, and then take out and check via a PC? Just to make sure it is actually doing it.
Yes have checked via PC after in car formatting as well as formatted with the PC. Tried both FAT32 as well as existing which is what car formatting used. The drive works as it records and saves dashcam footage succesfully with it either directly in USB A or USB C port.

I think it may be an issue with Sentry mode itself triggering that I may need to take into SC.
 
Yes have checked via PC after in car formatting as well as formatted with the PC. Tried both FAT32 as well as existing which is what car formatting used. The drive works as it records and saves dashcam footage succesfully with it either directly in USB A or USB C port.

I think it may be an issue with Sentry mode itself triggering that I may need to take into SC.
One other thing to try, exFAT. That is what I use on my drives in my Y.
 
I’m having an issue periodically where it says I have a bunch of events and when I click on it the video starts but keeps skipping back and never showing the clip. The only way to get out of it is to delete the footage negating the whole idea of having events to watch. Sometimes it works fine. It seems to do it when I have multiple events triggered. I am using a quality SSD card meant for dashcam type use with a USB reader. Any thoughts?
 
I’m having an issue periodically where it says I have a bunch of events and when I click on it the video starts but keeps skipping back and never showing the clip. The only way to get out of it is to delete the footage negating the whole idea of having events to watch. Sometimes it works fine. It seems to do it when I have multiple events triggered. I am using a quality SSD card meant for dashcam type use with a USB reader. Any thoughts?

I have no idea, but personally I've never had much luck with those tiny USB SD card reader/writers, every one I have tried to use has had some issue or another. Perhaps I have not used the right ones. When I do use such a beast I usually end up using one of those more expensive multi type readers that also accepts CF, etc. but only in a static environment like at home on my desk connected to a powered USB and never in a car.

The one thing I do not like about those SD micro USB adapters is that because they are so small, they lack any kind of bulk capacitance, so any kind of dip or drop out on the 5V supply can cause trouble, nothing to hold up the 5V. Those hiccups if long enough could cause problems like failing to write data or corrupting the SD card, choice of file system can sometimes help with that. Better drives have some sort of built in capacitance to help overcome small power hiccups and typically nothing bad happens unless there is a major event on the 5V supply. But on the small USB SD card readers that I have worked with there is no hold up and power is direct from the source, so any kind of hiccup can cause weird stuff to happen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NJEV-Don
Hi, did you resolve the problem? I just had MCU2 upgrade and video recording works manually from honk and dashcam icon but sentry is not recording. Not even when alarm is triggered. Screen shows recording, but nothing is saved to microSD.
 
So when I get back in my car after being at the gym for 2 hours, it will say for example "3 notification" and then I click sentry mode on the top right and then viewer and then there's absolutely no footage..I'm surrounded by cars and yet it only slows me a .5 sec clip of me getting in the car... It's done this every single time. I have a SanDisk MobileMate USB 3.0 if that matters.. Anyone have any advise??
I'm having the exact same issue...sentry shows notificartions..I go to view and nothing. When I test it on my own, once in a while it might record but rarely.