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Sequestering carbon by land restoration and reforestation in Iceland

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Hey all - just thought I'd drop by, as I'm working towards a botany degree now, and there's been a lot of interesting things that have come up that shed light on the above, which I thought I'd share:
  • Icelandic soil is quite unusual. Volcanoes that erupt under thick glaciers (not a common thing on Earth outside of Iceland) create a particularly fine, readily-airborne brown particulate matter dust. This blows around and is constantly deposited across the country. That brown ground where little to nothing grew on the west / seaward side, that so-called "jöklaleir" / "glacial clay"? That's an accumulation of nearly pure particulate without organic matter.
  • This particulate has a particular property that it tightly binds phosphorus, rendering it unavailable to plants - hence my low phosphorus tests. It's also basic, reducing the natural acidification one finds in a lot of northern soils (explaining my relatively neutral pHs).
  • Apart from the phosphorus shortage, where plants lay down carbon at the same time, the combination can form a very fertile soil, as it's otherwise very nutrient rich. But Iceland was so overgrazed for so long that higher portions of dust and lower portions of carbon were laid down, creating an environment that's difficult for plants to grow in.
  • The bound phosphorus is made more accessible by mycorrhizal associations, e.g. symbiotic fungi in the roots. It's recommended to seed trees with them before planting.
  • The dust has an interesting property, however, where it also strongly binds carbon. Over geologic timescales. Excepting bogs, your average ecosystem sequesters carbon only when it's growing, but when it hits a steady state, so does carbon, and it can be reversed if the local ecosystem changes to a less carbon-intense form. But bogs - and apparently this glacial dust - binds it up effectively permanently.
  • The dust grains contain a lot of a clay called allophane. While most clays are made of thin mineral sheets, the allophane is hollow spherules. This makes it very water absorbant, but the water is somewhat difficult for plants to get at (though again mycorrhizal associations can help)
  • The spherule-shaped allophane also does not hold together readily, and thus makes the soil very prone to A) letting water drain through it, and B) liquefaction during wet periods. This helps promote landslides where soil is insufficiently anchored.
  • The "melur" / gravel pan is caused by the same thing that causes the tussocks in the marshes: frost heaving. Freeze-thaw cycles tend to lift the larger rocks to the surface and leave the finer material below. I had noticed that the material tended to get finer under the surface, but never thought much of it.
  • Areas prone to frost-heaving tend to damage the roots of plants planted there.
  • In planting, I should be taking into account some additional parameters:
    • Looking for bowl-shaped depressions. The plants in them need to be more frost-tolerant, as cold air collects there.
    • Though the prevailing winds are to (not from) the sea, and coming from areas where the wind has to go over mountains, I should still be taking salt more into consideration. I should have an eye out for damage on the *backside* of trees relative to the prevailing winds; if present, that tends to be a sign of salt damage. Windbreaks shelter downstream trees from salt, so only the outermost layers of trees in a grove need to have particular salt tolerance in an at-risk area; requirements decline from there in.
Also, just thought I'd add... knock on wood... zero sheep breakins this year(!) :) It's been a great summer to be a tree on my land!

Anyway, just thought I'd pass on an update. :) Thought not today (due to bursitis in my right leg), I've been spending most of my free time in the research garden lately. The ground heat definitely seems to be encouraging growth, although we won't know for sure until I do a second set of measurements. Doesn't do anything to help plants with frost-sensitive leaves survive frosts, however (where those leaves extend above the surface boundary layer) - had a storm with cold winds brown the top off an entire banana plant, for example. But for plants whose northern limits are caused by root freezing but which can tolerate frost, however (including potentially huge trees), it looks like it might be a great option.
 
Hey all - just thought I'd drop by, as I'm working towards a botany degree now, and there's been a lot of interesting things that have come up that shed light on the above, which I thought I'd share:
  • Icelandic soil is quite unusual. Volcanoes that erupt under thick glaciers (not a common thing on Earth outside of Iceland) create a particularly fine, readily-airborne brown particulate matter dust. This blows around and is constantly deposited across the country. That brown ground where little to nothing grew on the west / seaward side, that so-called "jöklaleir" / "glacial clay"? That's an accumulation of nearly pure particulate without organic matter.
  • This particulate has a particular property that it tightly binds phosphorus, rendering it unavailable to plants - hence my low phosphorus tests. It's also basic, reducing the natural acidification one finds in a lot of northern soils (explaining my relatively neutral pHs).
  • Apart from the phosphorus shortage, where plants lay down carbon at the same time, the combination can form a very fertile soil, as it's otherwise very nutrient rich. But Iceland was so overgrazed for so long that higher portions of dust and lower portions of carbon were laid down, creating an environment that's difficult for plants to grow in.
  • The bound phosphorus is made more accessible by mycorrhizal associations, e.g. symbiotic fungi in the roots. It's recommended to seed trees with them before planting.
  • The dust has an interesting property, however, where it also strongly binds carbon. Over geologic timescales. Excepting bogs, your average ecosystem sequesters carbon only when it's growing, but when it hits a steady state, so does carbon, and it can be reversed if the local ecosystem changes to a less carbon-intense form. But bogs - and apparently this glacial dust - binds it up effectively permanently.
  • The dust grains contain a lot of a clay called allophane. While most clays are made of thin mineral sheets, the allophane is hollow spherules. This makes it very water absorbant, but the water is somewhat difficult for plants to get at (though again mycorrhizal associations can help)
  • The spherule-shaped allophane also does not hold together readily, and thus makes the soil very prone to A) letting water drain through it, and B) liquefaction during wet periods. This helps promote landslides where soil is insufficiently anchored.
  • The "melur" / gravel pan is caused by the same thing that causes the tussocks in the marshes: frost heaving. Freeze-thaw cycles tend to lift the larger rocks to the surface and leave the finer material below. I had noticed that the material tended to get finer under the surface, but never thought much of it.
  • Areas prone to frost-heaving tend to damage the roots of plants planted there.
  • In planting, I should be taking into account some additional parameters:
    • Looking for bowl-shaped depressions. The plants in them need to be more frost-tolerant, as cold air collects there.
    • Though the prevailing winds are to (not from) the sea, and coming from areas where the wind has to go over mountains, I should still be taking salt more into consideration. I should have an eye out for damage on the *backside* of trees relative to the prevailing winds; if present, that tends to be a sign of salt damage. Windbreaks shelter downstream trees from salt, so only the outermost layers of trees in a grove need to have particular salt tolerance in an at-risk area; requirements decline from there in.
Also, just thought I'd add... knock on wood... zero sheep breakins this year(!) :) It's been a great summer to be a tree on my land!

Anyway, just thought I'd pass on an update. :) Thought not today (due to bursitis in my right leg), I've been spending most of my free time in the research garden lately. The ground heat definitely seems to be encouraging growth, although we won't know for sure until I do a second set of measurements. Doesn't do anything to help plants with frost-sensitive leaves survive frosts, however (where those leaves extend above the surface boundary layer) - had a storm with cold winds brown the top off an entire banana plant, for example. But for plants whose northern limits are caused by root freezing but which can tolerate frost, however (including potentially huge trees), it looks like it might be a great option.
That is most informative! Especially in conjunction with the film by Þröstur that Brando linked above, it inspires hope. You really seem to be some kind of combination of Duracell and Wikipedia :)

Sorry to read about your knee, here and on Twitter. I had something like that a couple of years ago, got anti-inflammatory treatment (Naproxen) and when that didn't help much, they tapped out a surprising amount of fluid. But it seems these things take time and may improve with gentle training of supporting musculature. I think my complaint began from provoking the knees by overenthusiastic flexing while car washing. On the other hand, being too sedentary is also bad. "Lagom är bäst", as we say it in Swedish :cool: One of our neighbours with a similar complaint bought an electric bicycle to walk his dog with and seems to have gotten much better. But it takes time, don't expect to get fit again by next week ...

Do take care, and please keep keeping us posted here!
Good luck with further expanding your encyclopædic knowledge into forestry!

(Maybe try using softer shoes or insoles? IANAMD :rolleyes: )
 
Hello Karen,

With your passion for sequestering carbon by planting trees, a botany degree is a natural.

Glad to hear that the Satan's spawn didn't set their cloven hooves on your land. Isn't it that time of year that the woolly invaders become something useful like mutton chops or Uggs?

Even though it was 109°-111° over the weekend and the forecast for the next ten days shows upper 90's, the leaves are beginning to change color and drop. It is time to start prepping for the upcoming "winter" we have here. Curious, how did the fence reinforcement along the stream bed go?

Please keep the updates coming.
 
Satan's Spawn hasn't turned into lamb chops yet, but they will soon enough, as it's very much getting into fall here. ;) Need to get the not-yet-ready-to-plant trees that are sunning on my land into shelter within a month or so. BTW, related to that, I had an idea this year (delayed by the bursitis) that I'm amazed that I didn't think of before. I have a trailer with a strong metal frame. I cultivate outdoor plants extensively. Um... hello, greenhouse? I now have a big roll of greenhouse plastic now to wrap it in, should just take an hour or two. But that's an hour or two of clambering across a metal frame, sooo....

The fence reinforcement was completed in late spring / early summer, just barely in time to keep out the invaders. I arrived at my land a few times thinking that they had broken in, only to realize when I got closer that they were just standing up against the fence, looking forlorn that they couldn't get past ;)
 
Satan's Spawn hasn't turned into lamb chops yet, but they will soon enough, as it's very much getting into fall here. ;) Need to get the not-yet-ready-to-plant trees that are sunning on my land into shelter within a month or so. BTW, related to that, I had an idea this year (delayed by the bursitis) that I'm amazed that I didn't think of before. I have a trailer with a strong metal frame. I cultivate outdoor plants extensively. Um... hello, greenhouse? I now have a big roll of greenhouse plastic now to wrap it in, should just take an hour or two. But that's an hour or two of clambering across a metal frame, sooo....

The fence reinforcement was completed in late spring / early summer, just barely in time to keep out the invaders. I arrived at my land a few times thinking that they had broken in, only to realize when I got closer that they were just standing up against the fence, looking forlorn that they couldn't get past ;)
Outsource!
Come on, there must be someone you can bribe / persuade to help wrap that trailer in translucent material?
No need for you to risk your own knees doing that. After this year's runup in TSLA, you must be rolling in such payroll? :cool:
 
Need to get the not-yet-ready-to-plant trees that are sunning on my land into shelter within a month or so. BTW, related to that, I had an idea this year (delayed by the bursitis) that I'm amazed that I didn't think of before. I have a trailer with a strong metal frame. I cultivate outdoor plants extensively. Um... hello, greenhouse? I now have a big roll of greenhouse plastic now to wrap it in, should just take an hour or two. But that's an hour or two of clambering across a metal frame, sooo....
Will this work with the strong winter wind?
 
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Hey all - just thought I'd drop by, as I'm working towards a botany degree now, and there's been a lot of interesting things that have come up that shed light on the above, which I thought I'd share:
  • Icelandic soil is quite unusual. Volcanoes that erupt under thick glaciers (not a common thing on Earth outside of Iceland) create a particularly fine, readily-airborne brown particulate matter dust. This blows around and is constantly deposited across the country. That brown ground where little to nothing grew on the west / seaward side, that so-called "jöklaleir" / "glacial clay"? That's an accumulation of nearly pure particulate without organic matter.
  • This particulate has a particular property that it tightly binds phosphorus, rendering it unavailable to plants - hence my low phosphorus tests. It's also basic, reducing the natural acidification one finds in a lot of northern soils (explaining my relatively neutral pHs).
  • Apart from the phosphorus shortage, where plants lay down carbon at the same time, the combination can form a very fertile soil, as it's otherwise very nutrient rich. But Iceland was so overgrazed for so long that higher portions of dust and lower portions of carbon were laid down, creating an environment that's difficult for plants to grow in.
  • The bound phosphorus is made more accessible by mycorrhizal associations, e.g. symbiotic fungi in the roots. It's recommended to seed trees with them before planting.
  • The dust has an interesting property, however, where it also strongly binds carbon. Over geologic timescales. Excepting bogs, your average ecosystem sequesters carbon only when it's growing, but when it hits a steady state, so does carbon, and it can be reversed if the local ecosystem changes to a less carbon-intense form. But bogs - and apparently this glacial dust - binds it up effectively permanently.
  • The dust grains contain a lot of a clay called allophane. While most clays are made of thin mineral sheets, the allophane is hollow spherules. This makes it very water absorbant, but the water is somewhat difficult for plants to get at (though again mycorrhizal associations can help)
  • The spherule-shaped allophane also does not hold together readily, and thus makes the soil very prone to A) letting water drain through it, and B) liquefaction during wet periods. This helps promote landslides where soil is insufficiently anchored.
  • The "melur" / gravel pan is caused by the same thing that causes the tussocks in the marshes: frost heaving. Freeze-thaw cycles tend to lift the larger rocks to the surface and leave the finer material below. I had noticed that the material tended to get finer under the surface, but never thought much of it.
  • Areas prone to frost-heaving tend to damage the roots of plants planted there.
  • In planting, I should be taking into account some additional parameters:
    • Looking for bowl-shaped depressions. The plants in them need to be more frost-tolerant, as cold air collects there.
    • Though the prevailing winds are to (not from) the sea, and coming from areas where the wind has to go over mountains, I should still be taking salt more into consideration. I should have an eye out for damage on the *backside* of trees relative to the prevailing winds; if present, that tends to be a sign of salt damage. Windbreaks shelter downstream trees from salt, so only the outermost layers of trees in a grove need to have particular salt tolerance in an at-risk area; requirements decline from there in.
Also, just thought I'd add... knock on wood... zero sheep breakins this year(!) :) It's been a great summer to be a tree on my land!

Anyway, just thought I'd pass on an update. :) Thought not today (due to bursitis in my right leg), I've been spending most of my free time in the research garden lately. The ground heat definitely seems to be encouraging growth, although we won't know for sure until I do a second set of measurements. Doesn't do anything to help plants with frost-sensitive leaves survive frosts, however (where those leaves extend above the surface boundary layer) - had a storm with cold winds brown the top off an entire banana plant, for example. But for plants whose northern limits are caused by root freezing but which can tolerate frost, however (including potentially huge trees), it looks like it might be a great option.

Thanks for this update, awesome that the sheep fencing has held, great that you have some more clues on what to plant where based on science. Is the botany degree an arbitrary goal to gather the info you need along the way to best reforest your land, and/or an end unto itself?

Sorry to hear about the bursitis. My mom used to suffer from that.
From a quick search, bold type added:
“It’s usually caused by repeated pressure on an area or by using a joint too much. High-risk activities include gardening, raking, carpentry, shoveling, painting, scrubbing, tennis, golf, skiing, and throwing. You can also get bursitis by sitting or standing the wrong way for a long time at work or home, or by not stretching enough before you exercise. Sudden injury can sometimes cause bursitis.”

So scrambling around on uneven ground and slopes to dig holes, build fences, and plant trees seems to fit the above description. I see that treatment is pretty much stop moving and wait for it to go away, possibly immobilize and/or elevate the area. Along with some sort of focused physical therapy to strengthen the muscles to help protect those bursa things.
 
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I see that treatment is pretty much stop moving and wait for it to go away, possibly immobilize and/or elevate the area. Along with some sort of focused physical therapy to strengthen the muscles to help protect those bursa things.
I've had this a few times over the past forty years and the cure is to get your physician to give you some muscle relaxing medicine. It has always cleared mine up within a week, and then it doesn't come back for several years.
 
Outsource!
Come on, there must be someone you can bribe / persuade to help wrap that trailer in translucent material?
No need for you to risk your own knees doing that. After this year's runup in TSLA, you must be rolling in such payroll? :cool:

Yes yes, but I'm also very resistant to taking money out of my investments to pay for things that I stubbornly refuse to admit that I can't do myself ;)

(Did a test of some *very light, very-protective-of-my-leg* gardening today. Will see how I feel tomorrow...)
 
Yes yes, but I'm also very resistant to taking money out of my investments to pay for things that I stubbornly refuse to admit that I can't do myself ;)

(Did a test of some *very light, very-protective-of-my-leg* gardening today. Will see how I feel tomorrow...)
Spend them a hot dog ... oh wait. :oops: But how about a Tesla ride? Maybe with sightseeing at your site? ;) Point out the "You are here" Tesla on the navigator! :D:D

Not a Dr, but I feel that complete immobility is counterindicated. An elastic support bandage might be useful, but avoid overflexing or overloading those joints -- although light exercise is good. I think.

Above all, give it time to heal and recover. Like months ... :eek:
 



More than 100 academics, experts and public figures have signed a letter calling on the royal family to rewild their lands as a public commitment to help tackle Britain’s biodiversity crisis and to show climate leadership.
The huge extent of land held by one family reveals the inequality of land ownership in the UK, said Scott-Halkes. Half of the country is owned by less than 1% of the population. But it also presents an opportunity to effect big changes by targeting just one landowner, said Dr Alexander Lees, a senior lecturer in biodiversity at Manchester Metropolitan University and a signatory to the letter. The royal family “could be leading on restoration and rewilding at landscape scales,” he said, “rather than being seen to be dragging their feet”. At present, for example, the Duchy of Cornwall has only 6% tree coverage versus the 13% of the UK (the EU average is 38%).