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Service Bulletin out on Hard Acceleration "Shudder"

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So what happens to the car long term without correction?
You just can't accelerate at 100% from rest, or above 90% when cold, or up inclines, at lower speeds, otherwise you get the shudder. For me, even on the low setting.

If I drive on standard or high, then I probably can't even do 80% of full acceleration. (don't do it, so don't know)

Knowing this, I avoid these situations because it will only get worse, that is the wear on the splines, cv joints, and the output shaft seal getting damaged and leaking. So my car should be "normal" for the long term. Service centres are correct in stating that it is not a safety issue, more an annoyance.

However, I don't think there is anyone who has put their car on high setting, and repeatedly gunned it from a standstill, feeling the shudder, several hundred times, to see if they can cause the cv joint or halfshaft to fail catastrophically. But if I was still under warranty... (?) :)
 
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You just can't accelerate at 100% from rest, or above 90% when cold, or up inclines, at lower speeds, otherwise you get the shudder. For me, even on the low setting.

If I drive on standard or high, then I probably can't even do 80% of full acceleration. (don't do it, so don't know)

Knowing this, I avoid these situations because it will only get worse, that is the wear on the splines, cv joints, and the output shaft seal getting damaged and leaking. So my car should be "normal" for the long term. Service centres are correct in stating that it is not a safety issue, more an annoyance.

However, I don't think there is anyone who has put their car on high setting, and repeatedly gunned it from a standstill, feeling the shudder, several hundred times, to see if they can cause the cv joint or halfshaft to fail catastrophically. But if I was still under warranty... (?) :)
That's pretty much all replaced during the corrective service, for tree fiddy (IF the SC is competent enough to use the correct billing code).

Any risk of damage to the front drive unit, other than the seals?

I always set my suspension to low while waiting at a red light if I plan to floor it on green.
 
@Ostrichsak @blodg1 thanks so much for your assistance. I now have a revised estimate. (CDN dollars) :) 😁😁😁

thumbnail_IMG_2708.jpg
 
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If you haven't checked out the updated service procedure for the clevis remove/replace, it is quite the spectacle! There are 124 steps listed! wow. It is so explicit I am surprised the first few points aren't describing how to use a wrench :) many of the steps are "use brake cleaner to clean area" and "push this button on the hoist to raise vehicle" .It seems to be written for anyone who has never wrenched!

but wanted to post a picture of the updated vs. the old clevis mount. Looks a little more robust, doesn't it? Some engineer has definitely put some effort in trying to fix the issue.
Screen Shot 2022-10-21 at 6.03.11 AM.png
 
If you haven't checked out the updated service procedure for the clevis remove/replace, it is quite the spectacle! There are 124 steps listed! wow. It is so explicit I am surprised the first few points aren't describing how to use a wrench :) many of the steps are "use brake cleaner to clean area" and "push this button on the hoist to raise vehicle" .It seems to be written for anyone who has never wrenched!

but wanted to post a picture of the updated vs. the old clevis mount. Looks a little more robust, doesn't it? Some engineer has definitely put some effort in trying to fix the issue.
View attachment 866092
thanks for the pic
any chance u have a side view to see the bushing difference?
 
What was the additional expense and what did they change? When mine was in for the $350 fix, they wanted to replace the two lower arms on both sides and quoted $2200. That may have included the $350.
Fore and aft links, upper control arms, stabilizer bar links, and tie rod ends, plus alignment which is $284 now apparently ($148 last year) total was $4000 CDN.

I was planning on replacing some links myself this winter, but since I just got a new battery under warranty I really had no problem getting a whole new front suspension and half shafts etc. for $ 4450.

They wanted to replace the brakes too, I said no.
 
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If you haven't checked out the updated service procedure for the clevis remove/replace, it is quite the spectacle! There are 124 steps listed! wow. It is so explicit I am surprised the first few points aren't describing how to use a wrench :) many of the steps are "use brake cleaner to clean area" and "push this button on the hoist to raise vehicle" .It seems to be written for anyone who has never wrenched!

but wanted to post a picture of the updated vs. the old clevis mount. Looks a little more robust, doesn't it? Some engineer has definitely put some effort in trying to fix the issue.
View attachment 866092
Which ones which
 
Unfortunately, based on this invoice, you paid too much and didn't even get the fix. Take it back and have it fixed again along with a refund of the overpayment.
I just set up an appointment for 11/29 (first available). So it means the car will probably go in February lol... I pointed out the overpayment, the issue is back, and the clevis mount not replaced along with the expectation that this should be corrected under warranty. We'll see what they say.