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Setting Amp level on control panel

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It wouldn't have to be done before. Have you seen how long it takes to detect that it's plugged in, and then say it's preparing for charging, and then begin to slowly count upward as it ramps up the number of amps? It's not instant like the snap of your fingers. It's a pretty solid minute. So there is time to get in the car and turn it down as it's going through all that.
Hmmm...maybe you should get your car looked at. There is no way mine takes a minute to ramp up to full speed.

Granted, I feel that I could probably catch it in time, but others may not be so nimble and able to get back to the car before the breaker is tripped.

On the other hand, if Tesla simply reset the charge rate when the car was re-started (and put into drive) rather than when the door shut (as I suggested above), I think everyone would be happy.
 
Hmmm...maybe you should get your car looked at. There is no way mine takes a minute to ramp up to full speed.
No need to have the car looked at; that is always how it has been since day one, and there is nothing wrong with it. Maybe it's more like 30-40 seconds instead of a minute, but it's a decently long time that's not instant and certainly time to get in and turn it down while it's beginning to start up.
 
Hmmm...maybe you should get your car looked at. There is no way mine takes a minute to ramp up to full speed.

Granted, I feel that I could probably catch it in time, but others may not be so nimble and able to get back to the car before the breaker is tripped.

On the other hand, if Tesla simply reset the charge rate when the car was re-started (and put into drive) rather than when the door shut (as I suggested above), I think everyone would be happy.

I think it probably takes a minute to settle into a consistent charge rate, even if it gets up to full speed within a few seconds. I've seen it bounce around for a while as it checks voltage and seems to try to keep from tripping a breaker.
 
Several issues with your statements.

The 80% restriction applies to the car's (and EVSE's) continuous current draw compared to the breaker rating in your panel. For example, if you had a 40A breaker, 80% of that is your 32A continuous power draw limit. This limit should be set in the EVSE itself, and then the EVSE communicates that limit to the car. You don't have to do anything special in the car as long as your EVSE is set up correctly. Sometimes EVSEs can be "programmed" (via DIP switches or similar), other times they just specify that you need to use a 40A breaker for example, and they are hard-wired to 32A limit (or whatever the numbers happen to be for that specific EVSE).

The current limit that you set in the car (at least in North America, I can't speak to other geographies) only applies to L1 (120V) charging, and would be useful to people that are plugging their portable connector into a domestic outlet that has other things plugged into the same circuit (e.g. a fridge). You might want to cut down the charge current from the default of 12A (which is already 80% of the typical 15A breaker, see how that's already taken care of for you?) to something lower like 8A so you don't trip the breaker when the fridge kicks on. Don't worry about that limit affecting your charging at regular L2 charging stations, destination chargers, or Superchargers. That limit doesn't apply to those charging stations. It's only there for 120V charging.
I had a similar issue. I was consistently getting g 32A from my ChargePoint home charger. That recently dropped on my Model 3 to max out at 29A. I cut the breaker to the charger, resetting it. After it finished its startup mode, the max charge amperage went back up to 32A.