Should I get a Model 3 Performance? Charging concerns.

[mswlogo]

Yes, you can limit the charge amperage from the screen of the Tesla, and it should "stick" to the value you set in a specific geographic location; however, the car's GPS is sometimes off, so it might not be 100% accurate. It'd be better to get a plug for the Mobile Connector that limits the rate, but I've never heard of one that will limit 120v charging to less than 12A. (These plugs include a chip that encodes how many amps the Mobile Connector can draw. There are third parties that sell some variants that Tesla doesn't sell.)

More broadly, I've seen some good suggestions in this thread. I particularly like the one of converting your 120v line to 240v; however, other electrical devices in the garage, including the garage door opener and lights, may need to work on 240v if you do that, unless they're on a separate circuit. Another idea I had is that you can supplement your at-home charging with various types of public charging. You've already mentioned workplace charging, but there are other types of public charging. In my area, many supermarkets, malls, parks, libraries, and other locations have public Level 2 charging available; and DC fast charging is starting to appear at more locations, too. In your situation, I would strongly recommend buying Tesla's new CCS1 adapter (or a third-party alternative), since this will enable you to DC fast charge at more locations. As you say, minimizing DC fast charging is best for the battery; but I wouldn't worry about doing a DC fast charge once or twice a month, if that's what it takes in your situation. Between your limited home charging options, your work charging options, and local DC fast charging, you should be OK. It won't be quite optimal, but it will be OK.

There's also the possibility of just biting the bullet and paying the $4-$7K for a new dedicated 240v line to the garage. That is definitely a lot of money, but it will increase the value of your property, particularly as EVs become more common.

He probably has 14-2 going to garage. That’s why I suggested 12-3. You can put a 20A subpanel with one 240V 15A circuit and 2 120V 15A circuits.
He needs an electrician to assess what he has and get options. There are always options.

Multiple electricians may help too.

 

[BReese8675]

Unless you’re willing to cough up the money to get a 240v circuit for charging, not worth it IMO. One of the biggest benefits to an EV is the ability to charge at home. If your specific use-case makes it difficult for a regular daily routine, forget about it.

Plus, a Performance is only good at upper SoCs. If you’re going to be regularly under 60% SoC, I’d suggest just getting a regular 3 or an LR. Power drop off is dramatic at lower SoCs.

Just so you know, that chart is not accurate anymore. Has been fully tested by someone named Bjorn on Youtube, and after software updates this year, the performance drops slowly and smoothly with SOC drop. Nothing like what is shown here.

 

[Black306]

Just so you know, that chart is not accurate anymore. Has been fully tested by someone named Bjorn on Youtube, and after software updates this year, the performance drops slowly and smoothly with SOC drop. Nothing like what is shown here.

Talking about this video? Cause I am aware of it. Street runs with a draggy doesn’t replace a dyno. Is there an updated dyno chart?

 

[BReese8675]

Talking about this video? Cause I am aware of it. Street runs with a draggy doesn’t replace a dyno. Is there an updated dyno chart?

View attachment 859831

No, he posted an updated test video at some point, I do have the screen shot at least. The results are night and day, dyno or not. Also, feels right to me. I’ve floored my 2022 performance at 15% and it’s still blistering fast

 

[redmunds]

If you can't move the fridge, can you put it on a timer so that it doesn't use any electricity at night (since you're not opening/closing it)? Then you can use the full circuit for your car.

 

[rentien]

Just so you know, that chart is not accurate anymore. Has been fully tested by someone named Bjorn on Youtube, and after software updates this year, the performance drops slowly and smoothly with SOC drop. Nothing like what is shown here.

I guess for me... i'm assuming a performance is still faster than a LR or RWD model 3, at whatever SOC i am at, so I still prefer to have the performance... for the fun factor. Heh.

 

[rentien]

If it’s in pipe (conduit) I would ask what is the largest (if any) 240v circuit that could be retrofitted. Even a 15a 240v circuit would be ok for your situation (imho).

But you still need 120v in the garage, so that would mean a sub-panel and I’m not sure they even do that on a 20a circuit.

I assume the conduit is buried? What is the distance? Where is the main panel located relative to the conduit? (Inside/outside/etc).

5K isn’t crazy if there is a lot of digging, upgrade main panel, and add a sub panel.

You might also ask what it would cost if you did your own digging (or sub-contract it yourself). There are a lot less surprises priced in if the trench is exposed and ready.

I was just thinking as I went to sleep last night, and realized that the other things in the garage probably still need to be on 120V.

Other than the fridge which I could move, I have the garage door opener, and a light in the garage that I suspect have to run on 120 V and will not run on 240V.

I'll talk to an electrician to see what options are there.

The distance is... not taking into account going up and down which further lengthens the wire, approximately 40 feet. This is breaker box, to the outlet.

 

[KenC]

For your commute, I wouldn't do it; unless you could do something like a Quick220. It combines two 120V, separate phases, into one 240V output.

 

[Kevy Baby]

4-7K is outrageous to install a 240 and wall connector.

Well, no it's not since he has a separated garage. This is not something one wants to go cheap on.

 

[ElectricIAC]

Well, no it's not since he has a separated garage. This is not something one wants to go cheap on.

Would be interesting if they would source power from somewhere closer to OP garage and just meter bill separately. Might pay dividends.

 

[Kevy Baby]

For your commute, I wouldn't do it; unless you could do something like a Quick220. It combines two 120V, separate phases, into one 240V output.

The likelihood of having two separate legs in the (separated) garage is very low

 

[Gasaraki]

Should I get a Model 3 Performance? Thanks in advance to anyone who reads and responds to my long post.

If anyone sees something I have left out in my research, please help to point it out to me! I'd really like to make this work.

Background:
So I rented a Model 3 Performance back in 2019. I have always been a fan. I want a model 3.

My issues are:
My garage is currently wired with one 120V/15A line from the breaker. I measured the plug in the garage to measure the wire size, it is 14 AWG. (Measured the wire at ~1.62mm). This means I cannot upgrade the breaker beyond 15A, safely. Taking into account the little chest fridge I have in there, my calculations show that: 1800W minus an assumed 200W for the fridge, and not taking into account the garage door since it doesn't open often, I have 1600 W left over.

This means I can only charge at 120V/13A IF the breaker does not trip from the garage door opening. If it does, I will have to decrease the charging amperage.

I have received quotes to install 240V from one Tesla recommended vendor in the area, of $4-$7K. The garage is not connected to my condo physically but the power in there ultimately comes from the breaker in my condo.

Assuming 75% efficiency, I get 1170W charging going to the car.

If I charge off peak on the EV2A PG&E scheme (still charging at partial peak) I can charge from 9 PM to 8AM when I leave for work. That gets 11 hours of charging a night.

This nets me around 15-16% charge to the battery.

My commute is 84 miles round trip, which comes out to 33% charge. (Calculated by ABRP).

I do have 6.6 kW (20 mi/hr) charging at work, however it is often taken by other tesla owners, so getting that is hit or miss.

If I want to keep charge between 75% and 30%, then I have to charge once every 2 days at work in order to stay above 30%.

I would like to avoid super charging if possible to prolong battery life.

The only alternative options I have thought of, is to charge during peak hours, or supercharge whenever I cannot get charging at work.

Does anyone think this is just too much of a hectic corner situation to own a Tesla? Have I missed anything that would make this easier?

The most you can charge from a 120V plug is 12A anyway.
Basically this is too much for you to own a Tesla. You forgot that temperature affects your range also so if you have to do this much mental gymnastics for now, what about winter time?

 

[ElectricIAC]

The most you can charge from a 120V plug is 12A anyway.
Basically this is too much for you to own a Tesla. You forgot that temperature affects your range also so if you have to do this much mental gymnastics for now, what about winter time?

If OP can supplement with some supercharging or has a L2 backup they can rely on it’s doable but not ideal..

 

[Kevy Baby]

...what about winter time?

Winter isn't going to be as much concern in San Francisco as the winters you get in NY.

 

[brkaus]

Winter isn't going to be as much concern in San Francisco as the winters you get in NY.

Still, 50 degrees takes a bite. Less so with the heat pump cars, and better than northeast, but I doubt it’s negligible.

I’d only go for it in this case if I had the $5-7k to reluctantly spend as part of the deal. I would try home + work l2 first, but I’d consider the electrical cost as part of the purchase.

Of course, get 3 quotes. Ask if you could hire out trench digging elsewhere, etc.

 

[rentien]

Would be interesting if they would source power from somewhere closer to OP garage and just meter bill separately. Might pay dividends.

Considered this and this would route wiring on outside of building needing HOA approval. I don’t prefer to go this route but maybe I should revisit this.

Whatever is cheaper.

 

[AdamVIP]

If you cant get level 2 charging at home don't get a Tesla. Why make your life more difficult and add stress to having to keep it on a cord all the time? You'll resent the car for the hassle it gives you.

 

[Casmium]

or if you have room next to your fridge.

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and a tt-30 adapter, if you can put a solar panel on your garage that could speed things up, but depending on when your peak hours are you could always get an extra 10kwH into your battery at night, and just charge the bluetti from your 120v outlet.
Plus if you move you can take it with you.

Still probably better to just get some other quotes from another electrician, maybe just adding a 20A 240V outlet would probably due.

 

[ElectricIAC]

or if you have room next to your fridge.

BLUETTI AC300 + B300 | Home Battery Backup

BLUETTI AC300+B300 is a modular solar power system with a 3,072 Wh capacity. Shop expandable 3000-watt generator to expand your power at will.

www.bluettipower.com

and a tt-30 adapter, if you can put a solar panel on your garage that could speed things up, but depending on when your peak hours are you could always get an extra 10kwH into your battery at night, and just charge the bluetti from your 120v outlet.
Plus if you move you can take it with you.

Still probably better to just get some other quotes from another electrician, maybe just adding a 20A 240V outlet would probably due.

That seems high.

 

[rentien]

Yep, that's factored in. I think 14 AWG can handle 20A but 80% if 15A, so I plan to use right up to that 15A.

Breaker is only rated for 15A though so not sure if breaker will consistently break if I run at say... 14.8A. I wouldn't want to put a 20A breaker on the circuit either though.

Does anyone know if what I said is not true? I want to make sure we're not calculating 80% twice.
Is it 80% of 20V = 15V or 80% of 15V = 12V?