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Should track mode 100% regen be stronger than normal driving?

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...and now that this thread is being resurrected, here is my question as a range miser, not race car driver:

Would I make up the added amount of battery regeneration in track mode for the extra battery drain the track mode is said to pull out?
If the net result is more range, due to higher current regeneration, why would I not stay in track mode all the time?
Definitely not. The extra energy used to run the coolant pumps, oil pumps, fan, etc at full speed is quite a bit more than the tiny gain from the extra regen.

Keep in mind the extra regen would only ever help in situations where you would otherwise be forced to use the friction brakes.

Coasting in neutral is ultimately more efficient than regenerating energy and then accelerating again back up to speed because there are losses attributed with transferring the energy around.
 
...and now that this thread is being resurrected, here is my question as a range miser, not race car driver:

Would I make up the added amount of battery regeneration in track mode for the extra battery drain the track mode is said to pull out?
If the net result is more range, due to higher current regeneration, why would I not stay in track mode all the time?
@clyde Track mode doesn't use more energy, accelerating and driving faster uses more energy.

(Well Track Mode spins up the cooling system fans so that uses a little bit extra, but probably very little compared to moving the car I think.)

If you are driving and decelerating aggressively enough that you're using the friction brakes a lot, then Track Mode 100% regen should improve your efficiency. Otherwise it won't matter.

In normal driving I don't normally use the friction brakes on my M3P. Its regular regen is strong enough. So I would get no efficiency gain from stronger regen.

Now when I'm tearing up a twisty back road...hell yes I put the car in Track Mode to crank up the regen. It feels great and is more efficient, I can maintain a much faster pace while still doing primarily one-pedal driving. Plus the accelerator mapping feels better in Track Mode with max regen (less jumpy).

But in typical driving? No need for stronger regen. At least not for me. And Track Mode in typical driving feels silly. Fans spinning loud, Hold disabled, nav disabled (map still present)...Track Mode is out of place and way unnecessary for normal driving. You can but there's no real point.
 
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@clyde Track mode doesn't use more energy, accelerating and driving faster uses more energy.

(Well Track Mode spins up the cooling system fans so that uses a little bit extra, but probably very little compared to moving the car I think.)

If you are driving and decelerating aggressively enough that you're using the friction brakes a lot, then Track Mode 100% regen should improve your efficiency. Otherwise it won't matter.

In normal driving I don't normally use the friction brakes on my M3P. Its regular regen is strong enough. So I would get no efficiency gain from stronger regen.

Now when I'm tearing up a twisty back road...hell yes I put the car in Track Mode to crank up the regen. It feels great and is more efficient, I can maintain a much faster pace while still doing primarily one-pedal driving. Plus the accelerator mapping feels better in Track Mode with max regen (less jumpy).

But in typical driving? No need for stronger regen. At least not for me. And Track Mode in typical driving feels silly. Fans spinning loud, Hold disabled, nav disabled (map still present)...Track Mode is out of place and way unnecessary for normal driving. You can but there's no real point.
Does track mode on the 3 also heat the battery, like it does on the S? That would also waste more energy.
 
Do you mean the Ludacris mode on the Model S? That's quite different than track mode. Only the Plaid got track mode about 6 weeks ago.

The Model 3 track mode does not heat the battery- in fact it does it's best to cool it with extra A/C.
I meant track mode on the Plaid. It seems to heat the battery, or I guess it could be cooling. It takes less time than prepping drag strip mode.
 
@clyde Track mode doesn't use more energy, accelerating and driving faster uses more energy.

(Well Track Mode spins up the cooling system fans so that uses a little bit extra, but probably very little compared to moving the car I think.)

Turn Track Mode on using something to monitor real-time energy usage like ScanMyTesla - I think you would be very surprised how much extra energy the car uses trying to cool everything down, it is not insignificant.
It's gotta be cooling. The only reason for heating in the past was to get better one time acceleration, but then you have to cool down afterwards. The limit to Teslas on road courses track has always been too much heat.
I meant track mode on the Plaid. It seems to heat the battery, or I guess it could be cooling. It takes less time than prepping drag strip mode.

It's 100% cooling the powertrain in Track Mode (battery and motors). In Drag Strip Mode it heats the battery and cools the drive units.

Generally speaking, the heating target for the battery is at a much larger delta than the cooling target, after some amount of normal driving, which is why it takes longer to prep in Drag Mode.
 
Hey does anybody know what battery percent you’d need for full track mode regen?

I did 2 quick terrifying laps at area 27 in Canada with a 92% battery and limited regen before my stock brakes overheated and got all the fun warnings.

I have played with track mode with less than 50% battery and definitely had crazy string 200kw regen. I just don’t want to get to the track with 50%. Anyone know the math? I’d assume as it’s in short bursts it’s a higher percent than what you’d need for supercharger 200kw charging.

Thx

Ian.
 
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@iandkirby Are you still using stock pads and fluid? Switch to track pads and DOT4 fluid before worrying about regen levels.

M3P is no different from other cars in that regard. It come with street pads, DOT3 fluid, and street tires. It's not a track day special straight from the factory.
 
I have played with track mode with less than 50% battery and definitely had crazy string 200kw regen.
I track my car constantly between 100% and 50% charge. There is NO WAY you get 200kW regen, ever. Track mode increases regen from 0.2G to 0.3G (that's right, it's in G's).

I have not noticed any limited regen above about 95%. Regen is never going to noticeably save your brakes unless you are a slow(er) driver. Tires can handle 1000+ HP at higher speeds, so making this 900HP brakes and 100 HP regen won't make a noticeable difference. The only way regen saves you is if you are willing to slow down at 0.3G while everyone passes you before braking at the 1.3G's their tires can handle.
 
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@iandkirby Are you still using stock pads and fluid? Switch to track pads and DOT4 fluid before worrying about regen levels.

M3P is no different from other cars in that regard. It come with street pads, DOT3 fluid, and street tires. It's not a track day special straight from the factory.
Currently set stock - had some unplugged ceramics on the way but took forever and canceled. Just ordered Mountain pass discs as they're just Giro's which have great cooling on my GT4 with the fan blades. Just had a quick play when I was at the track but ya I'll def. get dot4 in.

I track my car constantly between 100% and 50% charge. There is NO WAY you get 200kW regen, ever. Track mode increases regen from 0.2G to 0.3G (that's right, it's in G's).

I have not noticed any limited regen above about 95%. Regen is never going to noticeably save your brakes unless you are a slow(er) driver. Tires can handle 1000+ HP at higher speeds, so making this 900HP brakes and 100 HP regen won't make a noticeable difference. The only way regen saves you is if you are willing to slow down at 0.3G while everyone passes you before braking at the 1.3G's their tires can handle.

Interesting - I've seen several people say 185/190kw - I'll do some data logging and see how much I can get. Should be able to help if it's that much. I mean...f1 cars basically just have rear regen for brakes (from what i know). Also Mission R is heavily brake by wire regen.

Rad you're tracking it - where at?

Also thx!
 
Interesting - I've seen several people say 185/190kw - I'll do some data logging and see how much I can get. Should be able to help if it's that much. I mean...f1 cars basically just have rear regen for brakes (from what i know). Also Mission R is heavily brake by wire regen.

Have a link to any of those discussions? Please do some data logging, I've looked at mine and never get 190kW. The max I have ever seen is 92kW.

What? Full race cars are different than street cars with a full warranty, inexperienced drivers, and need to work at -30F? Tell me more ;)