Show of hands… Adaptive Suspension

[SteveSchweer]

How many new Model S owners out there can actually FEEL the difference between “Sport” and “Comfort “? I know I can’t.… even though Tesla Service says it is functioning normally. No matter what I do with the suspension controls, my ride is the same… punishingly harsh. Yet, from these forums and YouTube, I see that many of you think the suspension is great. As this is probably one of the most sophisticated suspensions ever put in a car, I have trouble believing that mine is “functioning normally “. I think the key objective question here is “can you actually FEEL a difference in ride quality when you change suspension modes?” (By ”feel” I mean you KNOW it changed, if you just THINK it changed then it didn’t). It would really help me and, I know, a number of others out there to find out if our suspensions are screwed up or if that’s just the way they are. Thanks for any input you can provide.

 

[maximizese]

I suspect this is all coming down to a difference in perception and expectations rather than any actual issues with the system. One mans jarring ride is another mans sporty suspension.

Gotta disagree here. Steve's theory and data showing 0-little voltage across the solenoid supports grounds for negligible change in dampening. The question I have is this an anomaly or are there many with this issue. I'm not sure if you just read the original post and chimed in too early or if you read through the thread to see the supporting data.

 

[pengy]

Dampening would most likely be static when sitting still. You would have to test and verify voltage on the solenoid while driving since it uses the feedback from the sensors on the knuckle to determine how much to dampen and adjusts that many times per second. Ideally it would be a graphing/logging multimeter driving over the same road/bump at the same speed to see the difference in solenoid effects.

Going through this thread, I don't think anyone has mentioned what height they have their suspension set to as this greatly affects the range that the dampers can work at. It also is affected on the other end if you drive with a very high/high suspension, the air springs are much stiffer preventing adequate damping.

 

[mswlogo]

If Steve's test theory is correct, and it's throwing off 0 volts at all drive "levels" than there is actually an issue and not just perception.

The theory is correct if you can show some volts are showing for a car that someone says is working.

System might shutdown when it's unplugged, It might only activate after movement (not just in D), first bump or over a certain speed.
Don't get me wrong, it may be a perfectly valid test. But I'd like proof of what the volts should be on a working car. Maybe 3V is still faulty and it's supposed to be 14V.

I'd like to see confirmation of a working system. Even Pre-Refresh would make the argument a lot stronger that some are faulty and this is 100% an accurate test.

Apologies if that has been shown, I don't always keep up with every post.

Believe me, I hope it's a defect, and this is a valid test and these cars can be fixed. Because I'm about to take delivery of one in a couple weeks if all goes well.

 

[mswlogo]

Dampening would most likely be static when sitting still. You would have to test and verify voltage on the solenoid while driving since it uses the feedback from the sensors on the knuckle to determine how much to dampen and adjusts that many times per second. Ideally it would be a graphing/logging multimeter driving over the same road/bump at the same speed to see the difference in solenoid effects.

Going through this thread, I don't think anyone has mentioned what height they have their suspension set to as this greatly affects the range that the dampers can work at. It also is affected on the other end if you drive with a very high/high suspension, the air springs are much stiffer preventing adequate damping.

Exactly !!! On both comments.

One other thing I considered is that signal they are measuring might be pulsed. And you can't measure it with a Volt meter. It could have a duty cycle proportional to how wide it wants the valve open.

And if it a straight DC voltage for all we know 0V is Soft and volts means it stiffer (when driving). So many variables.
Need to characterize what a working system looks like.

 

[mswlogo]

Gotta disagree here. Steve's theory and data showing 0-little voltage across the solenoid supports grounds for negligible change in dampening. The question I have is this an anomaly or are there many with this issue. I'm not sure if you just read the original post and chimed in too early or if you read through the thread to see the supporting data.

I think he has a valid point that it's a possibility.

Lot's of people like the Model 3 ride. I did not (took me a year to decide that ). I switched to the Model X. Initially I had it in Auto Dampening. Found on average it was a bit harsh. Later set it to Comfort and was happy.

One test I might try with my Raven X is.

Drive over a Speed Bump, say 5 mph. On Comfort vs Sport. And record the Suspension Screen and See if it shows difference in Compression on the two settings. I think it SHOULD.

BTW, I did that exact test in the Model X before the new Suspension Screen and there was a huge difference in how it felt and that's what convinced me that I preferred Comfort.

 

[glide]

ImOne test I might try with my Raven X is.

Drive over a Speed Bump, say 5 mph. On Comfort vs Sport. And record the Suspension Screen and See if it shows difference in Compression on the two settings. I think it SHOULD.

That’s part of the problem here. The suspension screen *will* show different compression/rebound numbers when the settings are changed.

But the feel of the ride is exactly the same.

 

[mswlogo]

That’s part of the problem here. The suspension screen *will* show different compression/rebound numbers when the settings are changed.

But the feel of the ride is exactly the same.

That’s good to know. And interesting.

But I think if it is showing than it should be changing because those are sensors telling you what the suspension is doing.

I don’t think it’s emulating what it should be doing.

Maybe it’s changing but not enough.

 

[Ed Hart]

I have a new Model S with just 1200 miles. Adaptive Suspension is in in Auto setting. It has an increasingly nasty vibration in the front suspension that looks like this the chart.
It looks like a classic under-damped suspension issue.
Anyone else feel this when simply running over a reflective lane marker?

 

[pengy]

I have a new Model S with just 1200 miles. Adaptive Suspension is in in Auto setting. It has an increasingly nasty vibration in the front suspension that looks like this the chart.
It looks like a classic under-damped suspension issue.
Anyone else feel this when simply running over a reflective lane marker?

Thats probably related to this "Refreshed" Model S model VIBRATION tracking and information thread!!!

 

[Ed Hart]

Thats probably related to this "Refreshed" Model S model VIBRATION tracking and information thread!!!

I have been reading that threat, too, but I don't see a link, unless all those on the thread are missing that the vibration is triggered by a surface bump.

 

[pengy]

I have been reading that threat, too, but I don't see a link, unless all those on the thread are missing that the vibration is triggered by a surface bump.

My thought was that the cv axle angle would be disturbed to cause a vibration that is damped with speed. I'm only guessing since theres a ton of factors at play.

 

[savetheplanet]

There isn’t enough data yet, but so far it seems like everyone with a working system has a Plaid. Does anyone out there with a refreshed model S Long Range have a noticeable mode change?

I've thought about this too. Maybe Tesla doesn't have separate suspension calibration for the LR, considering it's 200 lbs lighter than the plaid with one less motor. I do feel that the rear is stiffer than the front when hitting sharper bumps.

 

[oktane]

I think the suspension on the Plaid is pretty good. The auto mode is neat how it can improve ride comfort by raising up itself. Not as good as active suspensions like the Mach E.

 

[DFWBrad]

The theory is correct if you can show some volts are showing for a car that someone says is working.

System might shutdown when it's unplugged, It might only activate after movement (not just in D), first bump or over a certain speed.
Don't get me wrong, it may be a perfectly valid test. But I'd like proof of what the volts should be on a working car. Maybe 3V is still faulty and it's supposed to be 14V.

I'd like to see confirmation of a working system. Even Pre-Refresh would make the argument a lot stronger that some are faulty and this is 100% an accurate test.

Apologies if that has been shown, I don't always keep up with every post.

Believe me, I hope it's a defect, and this is a valid test and these cars can be fixed. Because I'm about to take delivery of one in a couple weeks if all goes well.

Oh 100% it's not proven lol, but the guy was just like "stop complaining it's not an issue", which it might be.

I (hopefully) will take order in the next month but don't have my hopes up for that, maybe will be fixed by time I get it

 

[Veregon]

I created a service appointment for some other issues and included the adaptive suspension issue in the ticket. The person on the phone said a technician will take a test drive with me to see if something is wrong so hopefully we can start getting some traction on this within Tesla.

 

[SteveSchweer]

Don’t hold your breath. They will look at your car’s log and it will say “everything’s fine ”. From that point on, it’ll be like talking to the wall. They will use the ride in your car to say “it rides like every other Tesla “. Your only hope is to get them to actually measure the control voltages activating the shock solenoids. I believe that if they did this, they would see the problem.

 

[SteveSchweer]

OK… because there were still questions about the results of the active damper test, I decided to do it again... This time while actually driving the car. I fashioned a pair of looooooong volt meter leads, attached them to one of the damper solenoids, and ran them into the cab. This way I could read the voltage applied to the solenoid as I drove and changed the suspension settings. The results were the same: the voltage read 0.045 the whole time… regardless of the suspension settings. (I went through them all). To me, this proves that my active suspension is not functioning. It also explains the empirical data… ie. No apparent change in ride quality, and ultra harsh ride (as un-powered solenoids will remain in their fully closed position). I would really help to know what voltage is applied to the solenoids in a working system… but I’m not having any luck at getting the driver of a car with working suspension to do the same test. My next step is to figure out how to approach Tesla with this data.

 

[pengy]

I can test once I get my car back from PPF today, will let you know the results.

 

[SteveSchweer]

Great! BTW Safety Tip…. Before you reach over the tire to disconnect the wire, be sure to put something tight under the jack point so if the air springs lose air it doesn’t break your arm.

 

[glide]

Back from Service for the suspension issue today. Here is the response (LR model)

Concern: Customer states: Adaptive suspension not working. Modes can be changed, but the feel of the suspension is exactly the same across all modes.

Technician performed Air Suspension diagnostics - no issues detected. Performed test drive - verified proper operation. Advise customer that changes between adaptive air suspension modes may not be perceptible in normal driving conditions. High performance wheels and tires will reduce the vehicle's ability to absorb bumps on the road resulting in a more harsh ride. No repairs necessary or attempted.
Correction: General Diagnosis - No Trouble Found

I have 19” wheels and all season tires…