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Has anyone had issues with 21x10.5 ET38 rear wheels rubbing the shocks (I'm talking metal lip of rim scraping metal shock body). I've been driving with this setup for about 8k miles and just developed this problem under extreme compression (turning right into a steep driveway, etc.). I can only think of two possibilities.

1) I've always been just a hair away from scraping and as the tires have worn down the camber has increased ever so slightly to the point where it now scrapes. I think this might be a possibility due to the fact that under normal load there's only 1-2mm of space between the wheel lip and shock to begin with.
2) A bushing is going bad and allows the arms to move too much under heavy load (my car has 47k miles on it).

I haven't talked to the SC yet but I'm certain they will just blame it on the wheels. I ordered some 3mm wheel spacers to try and create more space but I'm not sure if that will just move the scraping to the outside of the wheel instead. It would essentially be an ET35 at that point. Worst case scenario I'll just get 10 inch rears but I just wanted to throw this out there and see if anyone else has developed a problem like this.
 
Has anyone had issues with 21x10.5 ET38 rear wheels rubbing the shocks (I'm talking metal lip of rim scraping metal shock body). I've been driving with this setup for about 8k miles and just developed this problem under extreme compression (turning right into a steep driveway, etc.). I can only think of two possibilities.

1) I've always been just a hair away from scraping and as the tires have worn down the camber has increased ever so slightly to the point where it now scrapes. I think this might be a possibility due to the fact that under normal load there's only 1-2mm of space between the wheel lip and shock to begin with.
2) A bushing is going bad and allows the arms to move too much under heavy load (my car has 47k miles on it).

I haven't talked to the SC yet but I'm certain they will just blame it on the wheels. I ordered some 3mm wheel spacers to try and create more space but I'm not sure if that will just move the scraping to the outside of the wheel instead. It would essentially be an ET35 at that point. Worst case scenario I'll just get 10 inch rears but I just wanted to throw this out there and see if anyone else has developed a problem like this.


I am running a different size wheel but you should measure your wheel to make sure it is 10.5 et38.
 
@colindo1990 it looks like you recommend et35s in other threads. If that’s the case then hopefully these 3mm wheels spacers will do the trick. Thanks.

@dk10438 I’ll update when I get the spacers. It’s just weird that it’s been fine for months and then all of the sudden started scraping. Ugh, I thought modbargains knew what they were doing but I guess not.
 
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uh oh, i have 10.5 ET 38 as well. Interested to see what the outcome is. Please keep us posted...

The 3mm spacers resolved the issue. I’m not a huge fan of spacers in general but this was the only option short of buying new wheels, and at 3mm there was still about 1mm of hub sticking out to center the wheel on. No issues with rubbing on the outside of wheel so it looks like ET35 is really the right way to go with a 10.5 inch wheel.
 
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The 3mm spacers resolved the issue. I’m not a huge fan of spacers in general but this was the only option short of buying new wheels, and at 3mm there was still about 1mm of hub sticking out to center the wheel on. No issues with rubbing on the outside of wheel so it looks like ET35 is really the right way to go with a 10.5 inch wheel.
what was the root cause? ie why would the clearance be fine initially but require spacers eventually?
 
what was the root cause? ie why would the clearance be fine initially but require spacers eventually?

Honestly, I have no idea. The only thing I can think of is disproportionate tire wear on the inside of the tire exacerbating the camber under heavy loads. So when the tires were new, the meat on the inner edge of the tire helped keep the negative camber at bay under weird load. As it was, there was only maybe 1-2mm of clearance between the wheel lip and shock. It’s easy to imagine rubber bushings and rubber tires flexing enough to close that gap.

This is pure speculation though. I feel like lots of people run 21x10.5 et38 and the fact that it hasn’t come up before might mean my car has other issues. At some point I will get my control arm bushings inspected.

As a side note, the wheels sit very flush now and look really cool.
 
Honestly, I have no idea. The only thing I can think of is disproportionate tire wear on the inside of the tire exacerbating the camber under heavy loads. So when the tires were new, the meat on the inner edge of the tire helped keep the negative camber at bay under weird load. As it was, there was only maybe 1-2mm of clearance between the wheel lip and shock. It’s easy to imagine rubber bushings and rubber tires flexing enough to close that gap.

This is pure speculation though. I feel like lots of people run 21x10.5 et38 and the fact that it hasn’t come up before might mean my car has other issues. At some point I will get my control arm bushings inspected.

As a side note, the wheels sit very flush now and look really cool.
is the stud long enough when you add a 3mm spacer??
 
Hi Guys!
I have some strange problem with the power consumption. All of I asked have told me the problem is the wheels.
I have 20” wheels
Front 245/40 ET 8.5
Rear 255/40 ET 10

What do you think is it really affects on consumption or no?
My middle consumption in the city around 350-400wh/km (640wh/ml).
 

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Hi Guys!
I have some strange problem with the power consumption. All of I asked have told me the problem is the wheels.
I have 20” wheels
Front 245/40 ET 8.5
Rear 255/40 ET 10

What do you think is it really affects on consumption or no?
My middle consumption in the city around 350-400wh/km (640wh/ml).

Did you check the air pressure? I would fill it to at least 42psi.
You could also put the original wheels back on and see if it changes.

What part of Ukraine are you in? I had a wrecked Model S that was purchased by someone in Dnipro.
 
Did you check the air pressure? I would fill it to at least 42psi.
You could also put the original wheels back on and see if it changes.

What part of Ukraine are you in? I had a wrecked Model S that was purchased by someone in Dnipro.
Air pressure is ok, the same as you wrote.
Unfortunately I can’t feet original wheels back because I changed and sold original 19” wheels when received the car.
Yes, I am in Dnipro, but here is about 50 Tesla Model S already) If you know the vin of your old car we can check)